95legwagon
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Posts posted by 95legwagon
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short end goes to the rack longer sleeve goes to the steering column
Thats commonly found on the Gen 2 Outbacks/Gen 3 Legacy (2000-2004)
And on some of the older EA cars (power steering rack IIRC)
I would avoid using that style because of the rag joint. Its gonna get hot when you weld an extension on the center of the shaft.
The most modifiable ones are found on the 96-99 Outbacks
/\ This..... couldnt have explained it better myself
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i believe its on the back of the block..... ive read that it looks like either a big bolt or big allen head. **dont quote me on that as i dont know for sure** there is one on the top of the block pass side towards the back but is hard to get to. there is like 4 or 5 of them around the block
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the windshield will be the only thing to crack.....other than that, youll break the hatch hinges or wear the hatch latch til it breaks
im BIG into car audio and have yet to see a broken back window.....specially in a soob. Plenty of subarus out there with a couple 18"s to like 4-6 12"s or 15"s on gobs of power.
i wouldnt worry about it
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maybe the coolant system needs to be "burped"?
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indeed it is but it is also more money than i spent lol i got this alt free so pretty much i just had to buy bolts and lock washers..... but these alts can be had used for pretty cheap from the right junkyard.... but you are 100% correct.
just thought id share what ive found and the reason im doing it this way is to have an alt for engine and stock accessories and the other 140a alt for my stereo hobby.... but could be used for other things too like a TON of lights or maybe other neat electrical hogs
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it was in fact pin 81 for at/mt id pin.
and make sure you wire up the neutral switch otherwise your car will run like crap and throw a cel
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so i have a 140 amp internally regulated alt. 14 volt set point from a 2002-03 volvo s60. and guess what??? it totally lines up with the bottom a/c brackets and the pulley matches up too.... oh yea!!! this i also a 95 ej22.
i have to still switch out the clutched pulley as it is clutched the wrong way ( yes this alt will charge if spun backwards) and maybe find a way to attach the top mounting ear to the top of the bracket..... its a pain in the rump roast to mount to the A/C bracket but would be worth if if your didnt want a/c and wanted a greater amp alt. im using the stock alt ( 85 amp) for running the engine and am gunna use the 140 amp alt for my accessory's ( lights, amps, stereo in general)
i will have them on separate charging circuits..... i also have a battery bank in the back of the car that this other alt will charge.... they will use a common ground though.
thought i would share this with the community as a possible alt upgrade
-Jarrid
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Thanks! Yeah, about 2 months ago, I was searching for a 22E but I had to drive all the way out to Colchester for my short block. If I had known about you, I'd have gone to South Windsor & picked one up there! It's good that I know about you now though because I will be coming to you for parts. I'm up in Rockville, which is only like 10-15 mins away!
lol yea we have a couple older soobs here like ours
one came in a few months back with piston slap but the car was almost immaculate! also a 97 leg wagon gta couple outbacks -late 90's
a new ( 07 ) legacy
theres even an old subaru rim sittin around somewhere..... maybe for a brat?
yea you should stop by or you could go to http://www.southwindsorauto.com and search our inventory before you call or stop by..... youll see my legacy as soon as you pull in lol
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i have always wanted to see what my soob would be like with a huge lift and an sti swap...... you beat me to it and boy oh boy does that look fun!!!!!
nice job!
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that looks just like mine...... except i dont have a hillholder like you....or that spring.... but mine was a 5 speed swap lol.
if the clutch doesnt engage when the pedal is to the floor you have to tighten the nuts to adjust the cable tighter on the clutch fork....i did mine by hand tightening them to the fork and snugging them....it worked for me. then i just adjusted to my own comfort - so my clutch engages closer to the floor than other cars.... i also have a bahnhof stage 1 clutch so its a lil different
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dude....awesome. im from west hartford and i grew up in manchester.... in fact i work in east windsor @ south windsor auto parts!
nice to see another person from ct here.
nice build and i love the look of your car
i have a 95 legacy wagon in which i am going to turbo at some point.... i have 2 turbos sitting around waiting to be rebuilt lol
we have subaru parts at my job so in case your looking for something let me know
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/\ whats the point of posting that pic lol
and the crank pulley should be the same between the two cars.... and i would assume from the soob engines i have seen its like everything else on these cars....pretty much the same.....
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with the driveshaft out the car should move..... if its an auto put in the 2wd fuse......if its 5 speed itll move....but it will put wear and tear on the front diff.
usually to get the driveshaft out you hafta remove the exhaust and the heatshield.... my 95 legacy its like that at least ( and ive had the driveshaft out WAYYYYY too many times now lol)
although you dont have enough jackstands you could alternatively jack up each side and place cinder blocks under the tires..... wouldnt recommend it BUT i would do it if i was in a pinch..... just make sure they are solid cinderblocks.... not the hollow ones
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the new cable SHOULD come with all new nuts and stuff on the new one.... id ask a stealership to be sure....
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on my 95 its a 2 wire alt..... the big thick wire is 12v pos. the other wire is the dash light....think its wht/blk but its super skinny.
i would find out which one is the charging light and hook it up to the "L" pin on the alt and wire up a 12v straight to battery and hook it up the the (s) pin and be done with it. should be a little pinout on the label of the alt.
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i had the same issue..... i had my girl push the engine backas hard as she could while i was under the car pushing the tranny up and toward the engine....and voila! like a glove.....was veryy hard though....had to really muscle that sucker
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do a 5 speed swap.....best money i EVER spent on this car.... well besides buying it
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didnt get that CEL yet....that i know of..... still have a CEL but havent scanned it yet.....pretty sure its for the NSS
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sounds about right.....what your doing is wanting to flip or at least access the bottom of the fuse box to remove the bolt that hold the positive side terminal to the fuse box right? thats exactly what i would do just be careful not to rip out any wires.....
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i am calling the switch on the side of the 4eat that mounts right where the shifter cable is..... it tells the tcu/ecu what gear your in.
i wired it up almost 100% now. just gotta get pin 78 on the ecu to nss and pull 2 of the 3 plugs on the tcu ( so i dont loose abs) which sucks anyways on these cars lol.
also never had a problem removing the key...... i dont think i have a key interlock....or at least i must of done something right that i didnt know of LOL
edit: so your the guy that wrote that? awesome write up!!! ive read over it many times.... in fact i think ive read your whole website on more than one occasion lol
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that sounds like a bad battery cable...... happens all the time to cars we get in our junkyard.......check and/or replace defective cable. ill almost 100% guarantee thats what it is..... very common issue on older cars...not just soobs.
do the cables look corroded at all? swollen? rusty?
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lol looks just like my tranny
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I think I won't have too much problem with the cel... I have a 5spd ecu but I'm not there quite yet I have a few things to button up today and hopefully fire it up... I guess tomorrow will be a junk yard hopping day to find that shifter rod
doesnt matter if you have a 5 speed ecu or not
its the wiring harness that differs between auto and 5 speed. you hafta ground pin 50 on the ecu connecter and then run a wire from pin 78 to one side of the clutch safety switch and the other side of the switch run to ground.also to get the car to start is easy lol if you need help dont hesitate to ask!
oh and the swap isnt that hard at all...but the wiring is a lil tricky
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that sucks.... i just did this swap like 3 days ago and i love it....best $700 bucks i ever spent on this car
i would go to a junkyard and pull one yourself ....youll walk away with it cheap!
just remember to buy new bushings..... i only got bushing for the shifter itself and not the stay rod and im regreting it..... also you will notice the 5 speed tranny mount is really soft .... might wanna go with a group n tranny mount later on....youll feel how soft all the bushings and mounts are the first time you get into it lol
i still hafta ground the pin on the ecu and wire up my reverse lights.... but its drivable right now.... i just left the auto's inhibitor switch hooked up and in the "park" position so it would start ( as well as the little black switch by the auto shifter was cut out by the wires and the wires connected together)
i just got the dreaded CEL but thats because of the ecu the code is p1702 and its cuz the auto isnt there and it knows it
if you have any questions pm me and ill do my best to help
-jarrid
question on hybrid setup....
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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can i run ej251 (01 forester) heads on my phase 1 ej22e IF i run the 251 intake manifold and engine managment? would cr drop? would the piston kiss the valves? im turboing my 95 legacy ej22 and im stuck on this after searching all over google to no avail.