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95legwagon

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Posts posted by 95legwagon

  1. if its the spring im thinkn your talkin about that sits right on the edge of the case then thats the parking pin spring......hope u got it right cuz i didnt even notice that it was dislodged and my tranny ate it up..... not only did i lose park but had to take the pin out til i got a new spring cuz it hit the gears.....BAD sound. then i couldnt shift down to 321 cuz it would get stuck. when you instal the spring make sure its hooked on the parking pin and then sprung counterclockwise onto the little rut in the case. it sits there nicely as you wont see an indent to trace of it supposed to be there. good luck.

     

    ps. did you happen to pinch the wires on the duty c when putting the case back together? they do get in the way if not tucked into that little crevice they fit in so nicely.

  2. If you are asking weather the frankenmotor is an interferance engine - it almost certainly is, yes. The thicker head gasket is because the piston will hit the HEAD surface not because it will prevent it from hitting the valves if the timing belt should break.

     

    Interferance vs. non-interferance is a silly discussion. If changed on time and attention is given to the water pump and idlers the chances of a timing belt breaking are almost non-existant. EJ timing belts are VERY strong. I have changed literally over 100 timing belts and to this day I have not seen a single one come in broken. I've seen seized water pumps, cogged idlers, and other nasty tricks but not one broken timing belt. At this point it's just not a reasonable argument against the interferance engines.

     

    The compression ratio of the EJ25D/EJ22E Heads/EJ25D gasket is 10.5:1

     

    The compression ratio of the EJ251(3)/EJ22E Heads/EJ251 gasket is 11.4:1

     

    The compression ration of the EJ251(3)/EJ22E Heads/EJ25D gasket is 10.4:1

     

    25D's are the most common EJ25's right now that are availible used - and the 10.5:1 ratio is slightly better than a 251 w/25D gaskets.... and there has been some reliability problems reported with the 11.3(4):1 combinations so we have stayed away from that one..... though I can imagine it really tears it up before it blows!

     

    And to the guy that says a CAI is worth 17 HP - you are most definitely mistaken. In fact the stock intakle IS A CAI and is not a significant restriction. You get more noise with your cone filter setup and your brain tells you it's faster because you really want to beleive it is. It is very likely slower due to being a warm air intake from the engine bay instead of a CAI from the wheel well.

     

    GD

     

     

    like i said i was told it was better hp with a cai....and no i wasnt stupid as to put in a hai lol....i routed it into the front bumper through the fender to its truly a cold air intake.....and the resonator on my car just looped down to the bumper and back up to the airbox so no....wasnt a cold air intake by any means. thats why i changed it. it is faster now .....just a lil bit but i do notice a difference just like i have on (almost) every car ive done that to. mostly throttle response though. its snappier. maybe te guy that told my 17 hp increase was b.s.ing me....possible but he said it came straight from a subaru dealership mechanic because the stock airbox was pretty restrictive. (so he says)

     

    when i lost bottom end it was because of my oversized (free) muffler from magnaflow 3" inlet 4.5" outlet. sounds good but lost alot of bottom end torque. at least it doesnt sound like a fart can exhaust (like a honda)

     

    -jarrid

  3. EJ25's like to spin rod bearings. I drive hard. EJ22 heads are the WORST flowing heads Subaru ever made. NO top end power. The EJ25 heads on the other hand are much better for top end too.

     

    Anyways. So cooling the Intake air won't do a single thing?

     

     

    so yea i have the ej22 in a 95 legacy wagon...... it has like NO bottom end but all kinds of top end...... the ej22 was the best fuel injected engine they made........things a die hard! lol you can beat the piss outta these engines and they still keep kickn..... the 2.5 is bad for headgaskets and its an interference engine.....if u break a timing belt say byby to valves......the 2.2 doesnt bend valves....just slap on a new belt, set timing and your ready to go. now the 2.5 block is more boost friendly than the 2.2 (some people say) some say the 2.2 block is better...... i personally wouldnt go that route with a stock block. im happy with my ej22.....just seriously hate the 4eat! so slow! a 5 speed makes it a little peppier.......just my 2 cents :)

     

    oh and the best you can do for cooling intake air is a cold air intake....i was told that just removing the resonator bottle and adding a cold air intake i added 17 hp. i did notice a big difference in throttle response and 0-60 time.

     

    -jarrid-

  4. had kinda the same problem and couldnt trace it anywhere...... i think it was the ignition circuit where it ties in somewhere...... it would work on 1 and sometimes 4..... then it gave out.... replaced the blower motor, resister, and control assy. ended up putting it on a 30 amp circuit..... mounted a switch on the kick panel..... its pretty nice lol..... except no speed other than high.... HA....

  5. Ive heard nothing but good things about delta cams to be honest..... every board i read says great things and thats ALL they recommend. everyone makes mistakes........

     

    btw i have a 95 legacy wagon ej22e and i put a big exhaust and cold air intake on it..... i lost lots of bottom end with the exhaust..... should i get the torque grind? and how long does it take to get them back once theyre shipped out to you guys?

     

    thanks!

    -jarrid

  6. i wouldnt wait on the timing belt for 1 reason..... its a ej25 in that car..... if a timing belt snaps or it jumps timing your bending valves..... aka STUCK lol id get a strut lift block or whatever theyre called..... that construction mud will eat a truck alive lmao! otherwise the mileage on that car is barely anything! im not sure about the 2.5 but ive heard its still a great engine mileage wise...... i know of soobs that have 350000 miles + on them and still kickn strong as ever.... just keep up on your regular maintenance and she'll run like the day she came off the show room floor.......

  7. you from cranston mass? im not too far away in west hartford ct! first off i would go bigger on tires......well for snow at least..... more surface area on the tires = more weight distribution over a wider tire..... stay with meaty stock size tires.....if you do lift you can go taller (not much) i havent seen alot of lift on a soob yet.... maybe like 3 inches.....after that you hafta do alot of work so you wont break the front axels.... (so ive read) definitly get awd if possible or do an awd conversion.... itd be a pain to do it yourself. and id love to own a 5 spd soob but auto is workin just fine for me right now.... they are alot slower acceleration wise compared to a 5 spd but in your case i dont think you would mind that too much :burnout: ..... hope this helps lol not much more than you should already know..... oh and stay away from the ej25 (2.5 liter) they make more power and torque than the 2.2L BUT have head gasket issues..... no fun!

     

    take care!

    -Jarrid

  8. i am wondering if a 2.5l ecu instead of a 2.2l ecu is being used........ correct me if im wrong but i believe that if it WOULD run on the wrong ecu that it would run terrible and throw codes...... do you know if they put in the correct engine computer? dont know how you would verify that but im sure someone here would have an idea based on the numbers on the actual ecu itself.......... hope this helps!

  9. timing jump maybe? im not too sure bout that 1 lol anything else evident? lights? (cel)? check small stuff first! i know it sounds stupid but i did a tue up on my 95 leg and the spark plug boot wasnt fully on the spark plug and it was fine until i got to a stop light and then the car barely ran..... had to keep my foot on the gas....... maybe a shorted plug wire or two? possibly cause they melted against the engine?...... just my 2 cents..... let me know :) and good luck!

  10. i would think that changing that sensor would help considering if i am correct that sensor helps control timing and if the timing is off its not gunna run right.....but also what kinda makes me wonder about that is that ive read on other forums that if the cam sensor goes out the crank sensor compensates for it and controls timing.... not sure but correct me if im wrong :) hope this helps.

    ps. ill also check the haynes for trouble codes when i dig it up for the diagrahms 2marrow.

     

    -jarrid

  11. LiftedRS.jpg

     

    lifted it 4", (1990 RS) went for first ride today, some minor issues to work out but the majority is finally done

     

    (also changed both struts, front brake pads, oxygen sensor, right hand steering boot, installed sealed roller bearings (ty gd for that idea) , inner and outer axle seals, 'new' knuckles, the left hand control arm, outer sway bar bushings... and probably some other crap I forgot... like the exhaust manifold gaskets and the rear main seal. Schiesse, other than that...) :rolleyes:

     

    is that 6 lug i see? how did you get that? i have 5 lug and didnt know older soobs had 6 lug......looks awesome with the lift!

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