cmill189
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Posts posted by cmill189
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The girlfriend has a '96 as a spare commuter car, still a 1.5L. It has 254k and averages 40mpg. I'm amazed at the build quality. Apparently this particular car took three girls through high school and a son through college yet has hardly any squeaks/rattles and nothing is broken.
It's kind of sad how slow non-turbo Subaru's are compared to these little turds, but 100ft lbs of torque and 2000lbs isn't too shabby.
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The 3.6 does NOT come with a CVT, only the 2.5.
You can also run them in a temporary manual mode with just the paddle shifters. The only difference is it will automatically "shift" back to a normal rpm range once the load is removed. I drove one for three months and thought the paddles were a gimmick till I figured that out.
The only thing about the new Outback that I really enjoyed was the absence of wind noise and the CVT. It is much better suited to the 2.5 powerband than the 4EAT. Other than that they handle like crap and the seats are sized for how large humans currently are, not how big we should be. I could fit one and a half of me in a seat and I'm 5'9".
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I think an easy way would be just to measure your rotor diameter. Early Outbacks had the 10.9"~ and later had 11.5". Since you can't exactly lay a ruler across the rotor without removing it, you can plug each diameter into Circumference=d*PI. Then wrap a string around the rotor and measure it.
Or perhaps I'm over complicating the matter.
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How were the bearings on your pulleys? I did the timing belt (alongside headgaskets and other items) on my girlfriends '04 and three out of four were noisy at 92k. The lower right being the worst.
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Looks like it should have been there to begin with.
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Look up Whiteline KDT-903. Same part but about $20 cheaper.
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What do the CV's look like? My Outback has 10" at the diff and the CV's look like their lives will be considerably shorter.
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Now you're ready for some serious mall-crawling!
Did you hook up the 4wd light?
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Hey you did EXACTLY what I did, nice. Except mine are yellow
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I used the Whiteline KDT-903 kit, well half of it, in my 2000 Outback. I did that first before doing a full bushing replacement (KDT-905) in the rear diff-front bushings. It is designed for '08+ Impreza's, but will fit the older Legacy bushings with very minor trimming around the edges.
If you have a manual, just the rear inserts alone will make a pretty drastic difference in how much the rear diff slaps around when loading and unloading power. They're also very cheap. The full bushing replacement in the front crossmember on the rear diff eliminated the rest of the slop.
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If you're looking at '05+ Legacy GT's, headgaskets aren't something you need to worry about. Those have the turbo engine that isn't prone to leaking.
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That doesn't seem too bad. Look at the torque though, almost 80 ft lbs at just over 3k rpm.
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That looks like a very clean install, nice job.
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I have an Autometer on my '00. I wanted to be able to dim it with the other interior lights. Seems most of the "euro" gauges don't have a separate ground for the lighting circuit. Coupled with Subaru's variable ground lighting system, you need to build something to reverse the polarity.
I used a Prosport galley adapter, moved the stock oil light sender to the rear galley plug, and put the Autometer sender in the front galley. I wanted to be able to easily check it for leaks and was able to avoid using a relocation line.
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If you aren't in a hurry, I have a new pump and oil pressure sending unit that I didn't end up using.
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With an OEM thermostat my EA82's fan rarely came on unless it was at least 80 degrees outside. You can run power directly to the fan to check it operation. The thermosensor acts as a ground, but someone else will have to chime in on how to test it. I believe you can heat it in a pot of water with a thermometer and some test leads to see if it completes the circuit, but don't quote me on that. You can also just replace it for good measure since they're cheap.
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The engine driven fan is for the A/C.
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You could also put the money in a savings account.
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I just replaced the upstream O2 on my 2000 OBW with manual trans. The old one said Denso, and the new one from Subaru said Denso.
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I had this same issue on my 2000 Legacy Outback. I pulled the switch out and popped off the bottom cover. Under that you will see the bottom of the circuit board. There are 4 or 6 contacts for each switch, and in the case of mine, the solder for the drivers switch didn't look so great. I re-soldered all the joints and haven't had a problem since.
The same basic fix as the dash clock on the older cars.
Hope that helps.
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...and you obtained your electric fan from?
A early 80's EA81 Subaru with A/C.
OK, so the original subaru wiring powers your Subie's electric fans. Both, isn't it?
Not exactly. The new fan is on a relay, so the actual power source is the battery. The original fan's positive provides the switched power for the relay, and the ground goes the new fan's ground.
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Stubies setup appears to be identical to mine aside from where the fan came from, so my pictures wont be a useful addition. If the switch he is speaking of is the thermal sensor, ours are wired the same as well.
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That means that the Stock A/C electric fan has a permanent Positive (+) and the Switching line is the Ground (-) isn't it?
So I can run a Relay with direct positive and ground to the New fan, and obtain the Switching signal for the relay, from the Stock A/C Fan's Ground; isn't it?
Could you post pictures of your Dual electric fan setup, please?
Also, about this:
I am a little bit confused... Why don't you leave the Waterpump's Pulley without screws?
those won't be needed anymore without the Clutch fan.
Kind Regards.
I'll take some pictures tomorrow.
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I have a very slim EA81 fan in place of the original engine driven fan. I have it wired with a relay, and the other electric fan's ground completes the circuit. So whenever the OEM fan is grounded via A/C or thermo-sensor, both run. I also replaced the water pump pulley studs with bolts for more clearance.
Recommended engine builder.
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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I think there might be some confusion between the "new" engine they are selling from the eBay listing and the "rebuilt" engines they also sell.
I don't know if the price went up on the rebuilds but the one I bought a year ago was $1750+shipping. That was with the same 60k/3 year warranty. I have about 12k on that engine and have zero complaints.