slo5oh

Yea, I've been praising Red Line for years. It allowed the stock t-5 in my mustang take 400hp beatings for over 2 years. Finally started leaking out the tailshaft. I think it was on redline's website in the testimonials some subie racer talks about the stock trans problems and how his with redline is still running strong while everyone else is on their 3rd or 4th one.

What does this stuff look like????

I want to know what it is!!! What does the stuff look like? does it look like real fine chew or shredded tree bark? or is it a liquid (pink maybe?)? If it's the pink liquid you will be fine with 2 or even 3 doses... it's just redline water wetter. I swear by the stuff.

Tires are like undewear... everyone swears by their own. I've run several different tires on a lowered 5.0 ('86 that for all intentions is a '87 to '93). Most tires after rotating them every 5k are toast after about 15k. I drive kind of hard . Falkens (245 45 17s) lasted me forever... something like 30k, but damn was it slip and slide... I had no traction. I went from them to a set of potenza RE 930s (225 45 17s)... they were pull offs from a BMW a buddy of mine hooked me up with, I don't like running the skinny 225s, but the price was right ($75 for a set of 4) and they looked almost new. I was amazed at the difference. No longer was I spinning the tires in second gear, and I could hang corners 10 to 20mph faster. I still get a grin thinking about a ford contour SVT (woo hoo) that I passed on the outside of a hard banked long loop freeway exit. It's marked 35mph and usually me and my friends take it as fast as we can anyhow. This guy saw me coming off the freeway the same time as him and nailed it sticking to the inside. I went into the corner on his rear bumper, and I came out with him over a car length behind. He thought his car was the $hit.... before that. Now I can't tell you the RE 9xxs are great for all weather... but I will tell you the 930s are great for dry and wet pavement. Those 930s held the road better then any tire I have ran.

Mike V, I've fooled smog stations with older cars, but the new OBD-II systems are a headache. If you don't live a communist state (i.e. cali) you should be able to take it to any good auto parts store and they will read your codes for you for free. It's probably something simple like an o2 sensor (or 2). Once you replace the bad part you should clear the codes and you should drive it for around a week before you try to smog it again. It takes about a week before the computer starts accepting long term memory. There are ways to speed this process up... but I'm not sure if they work.

Great write up, thanks! I'm bookmarking that page for the day my '98 starts sucking anti-freeze. ***so ours is the 25EJ... what's the newer 2.5 called (in the 00 and 01 outbacks). It's a 2 cam instead of our 4 cam engine right?***

Searching for anyone with pictures of the headgasket problems in the new(er) 2.5 engines. And... Does anyone have a list of what engines went into what cars? I've read that the 2000s had a dohc 2.5 and they have the internal HG issue, but I know my 89 has a 4 cam engine and it has an external HG issue? what are the exact part #s for the different years engines (i.e. 25ej, etc) I'm not a knuckle head, I've ripped apart several engines and did simple rebuilds on a few ford 302s... I just want to know more about the different 2.5 engines... my sponge is drying up.

every o2 sensor I have seen is Bosch... Ford, GM, Subaru, Honda, Toyota, etc... some don't have the bosch name printed on them... but every one i've ever seen at least had the bosch emblem on it. Even the AC Delco ones are simply bosch ones in a Bosch box with a new AC Delco sticker over the Bosch sticker. Pray to god we never go to war with the germans again, we'll run out of O2 sensors for our cars. Bosch is a german government owned company I always look up parts at carparts.com to get a ball park idea. o2 sensors are not hard... worst case you may have to spend $10 on the oxygen sensor tool... looks like a huge socket with a window cut in it. Even spending the $10 you save the cost of paying some mechanic too much for an easy job. My recommendation... do it yourself.

Any drawback(s) to driving like this for extended periods of time? say... summer time rwd, then the other 3 seasons awd??? Thanks for the replys... the car sat for about a month and it was right after that i started feeling what i figured was an out of round tire. The binding I only noticed recently. I need to get her in and have the tires rotated and balanced... since she has about 110k on her now I plan on doing a trans flush (probably once with normal fluid, then a second time with syn) and a cooling system flush too. Too little time.... :|

So i've had my soob for over 2 years now and the other day I threw it in reverse (auto) and pulling out of a parking spot cranked the wheel to the right. Every 2 or 3 feet it felt like i ran over a rock. The first one I thought nothing of it, the second I thought what are the odds? After the 3rd I slowed down and crawled up on the 4th just to be sure it was doing what I thought. I've owned a jeep and a toy 4x4 that both did this in 4 wheel drive. The toy need the hubs locked, but this felt exactly the same as they did on the dry pavement in reverse turning. The innter wheel would "bind" and then jump once the pressure exceded the force of the rubber on the pavement. Is this a normal thing or should I be under it looking for trouble? I know the boots are ok, I pressure washed the engine a week or 2 back and looked pretty close at everything under the hood. Thanks in advance.

I'm starting to feel like I'm running in the special olympics... even if I win I'm still retarded for arguing with you. Whatever... you think you can compress water, go ahead and live in your fantasy world. As for the most recent posts. #1 Yes, you can see gains by using an aftermarket intake (cold air or other) but only if you have increased overall HP of the engine first. All manufacturers spend big $ to (usually) match up everything - intake tubes, intake runners, combusion chambers, intake and exhaust valves, header or exhaust manifold sizes and designs etc to make the most power, performance, and mileage out of the lowest cost parts. If you have built up your engine and are making 50% or more power then OE that's when you can make decent gains with a larger intake tube. This is correct. 1/4 mile guys have been doing this for year... going back into the 70s and maybe earlier. It was common back then for the water injection to leak while the car was off, after several big racers bent rods and destroyed cranks many would pull the spark plugs out if the car was going to sit for more then a couple hours. That way when they jumped in to fire it up it would simply shoot the water out the spark plug hole. Put the sparkers back in and they're off and racing again.

If it won't scratch your plastic cups, it's probably safe on your paint. I've used several different liquid dish soaps. I used to use nothing but Zymol on my mustang.. but I grow tired of having to reapply every month or so... I tried the Nu Finish on my subie earlier this summer... I'm going on 3 months and 3 or 4 no-wax auto car washes... the Nu Finish is beading up like new. I did buy a 10" buffer and ran the entire car with fine cut cleaner first. I still have scratches... but less then I did before I started. I have some new stuff to try next time... but I'm lazy.

This can be done in a parking lot, or behind a gas station... You will need a 10mm and and 12mm open end wrench. On second thought.. you may not need the 10mm, but when in doubt...

First off... GET IN THERE AND LOOK AT IT!!!! Pop your radiator cap (only when the engine is cool!) and see if there's any coolant/water in it. It should look like Mt. Dew. Check your oil level. See if you fans are busted or still ok.

I repeat... So unless you have one of those machines designed to turn coal into diamonds... water can not be be compressed. I don't care to hear about scuba diving... heavy water... whatever... for those of us not related to superman water can not be compressed. Even if you made your engine out of titanium you still could not compress water with it.

I'm a "do it yourself" junkie... Save youself lots of money and do the repair yourself. Head out to a local junkyard and walk around looking at all the different alts. on the subies... I almost always see one that looks either new or newer. Otherwise most alts are the same. Call around to different car parts stores and price them out. Most of them will be rebuilds for $X + a core charge most with a "lifetime" warranty... but keep your receipt.

go to www.carparts.com and you can get an idea on the price of the parts. Labor should be under 1 hour... so $65 or less. If you're going to have a shop do it then watch the prices on the parts... some no-so-honest shops will charge you $100 for a part you can buy at the local autoparts shop for $35... It's a good way for the shop to make extra money, but still look like a good guy... "See, here... I'm only charging you for 1/2 hour of labor. The parts were expensive"

I second that. We've ran this topic way out there... but it's good stuff. Blitz, That paper you posted confirms everything I've ever seen, heard, and thought about. A mustang mag I used to read religiously did a 351 long rod build up. They built it up to 11:1 and were able to run 87 octane still pushing (I think) 400hp at the crank. Perhaps the horribly short rods we have in our engines were a blessing... now if only we can all put good turbos on.... We need to find someone that's willing to experiment with the gears.... I'd love to know if a taller gear will give decent gains on the MPG by keeping the RPMs down during normal freeway cruising. I think these engines have the TQ to maintain enough power even if cruising RPM were around 2200 to 2500 instad of 3000 to 3500. Damn I miss Gran Turismo...

Pull out your spark plugs and read them. I'd simply replace them with new copper (I've never used and never will use platinum) ones.

With the car running you should never see voltage below 13 to 14... unless you are powering a pair of 12" thumpers in your trunk... keep your radio off for the test. If it's the amp sucking all your juice then you need to buy a cap. aka capacitor. If your voltage is low when engine is running it's your alt. If voltage is low when engine is off then it's your battery. But, if your alt. is going then your battery may not be fully charged. Test the voltage of battery when car is off. If it's below 12 (I think 12.8 is fully charged) and dropping, usually one one hundredth a second or 2... i.e. 11.85.... 11.84....... 11.83 then you have a bad battery but the alt. has been saving you up to this point. If it's your battery I recommed Costco... their prices are always lower and at times half what pep-girls, and auto-bozone want...

I guess I need to get down the dealer and listen to one... The only cars with a tone that could bring a tear to my eye were filled with a fast revving high horse power 302 or 351. There's something that brings out that little boy in me when I fire up a supercharged 5.0 pushing over 400hp and the throttle response is instantanious... stabbing the throttle a couple times from an idle, then letting her settle back down and hearing that tale tell whistling of the supercharger just teasing you into grabbing 2nd and laying down a patch of rubber for about 300 yards. hummm... back to work.

I say "them"... because on older (80s to 90s) cars you will have one on each header or exhaust manifold. Since all V and H engines use 2 heads, that makes for 2 headers or exhaust manifolds. On newer cars (mostly the 00s and up)there will be a second one (per side, making the total 4) located at or near the Catalitic Converter... usually not far down the exhaust pipe from the headers. O2s can get expensive.... Hell, even my local pick-n-pull wants $15 each. That's robery...

If the 2 started at the same time I would wonder. I don't know for sure, but I would guess you hit something and it ripped or wrecked the speedo cable and whatever wire runs to your the ISC sensor.

It's easy. If you can plug in your home cable box you can change your o2s. The only part that may get tricky is getting to them. I haven't done the ones on my soob yet. If it looks like you can't get a wrench on them (or one) then you may need to buy the oxygen sensor socket. It looks like a big deep socket with about 1/3 of it cut out to allow you to simply slip it on.

I don't know how many, but was under the impression that most small (trick) planes still use a 4 cyl. boxer style engine. Blitz, Don't motorcycles use an ultra low rod/stroke ratio? Of course they also have an incredible power to weight ratio. But the low rod/stroke ratio allows them to rev up into the sky.