Phillip

Before I pulled the heads, I'd replace the thermostat. A sticky stat can cause intermittent heating problems.

The only way to 'clear' a code is with a scan tool. Disconnecting the battery might make the CEL light go out, but the set code will stay in memory until cleared.

Why do you believe it's illegal to install tubes in tubeless tires? Neither the Michelin dealer nor the Goodyear dealer in my town is aware of this.

The 1999 Factory (CD) Subaur Service Manual lists the following Fuel Temp Sensor Codes: PO180, 181, 182,183,184,185, 186, 187, 188, & 189, but gives no testing procedure. My Snap-On Scanner reads the sensor in degrees (not voltage) so I doub't the sensor could be accurately tested using hot/cold water and reading voltage. I've yet to find the exact locaton, but it appears to be very near the FUEL TANK PRESSURE SENSOR, which is located"Behind right rear cargo area trim panel, rear wheel area". I'll spend some time this weekend trying to find the exact location and reply later.

Yes, there is a fuel temperature sensor on your car. My 1999 factory manual shows it very near the fuel level sensor at the rear of the car. I'd bet it's part of the fuel pump/fuel meter assembly, but don't know for sure. I'm a mechanic in a domestic repair shop with limited Subaru experience (just bought one a few months ago); GM & Ford both also use fuel temp sensors. Typically when the CEL illuminates with a fuel temp sensor code, either the fuel filter is partially plugged, the pump is defective, or the sensor is bad. The fuel continuously circulates from the tank to the injection unit and back to the tank again whenever the pump is running. Any restriction (plugged fuel filter or pinched line) will cause the fuel to heat up and trigger a code. If no one else knows where the sensor is located, I'll review my factory CD service manual and see what I can find for you.

All four alloy wheels on my 1999 Outback also leaked 3-10 psi per week. I had the tires removed and the wheels & beads cleaned twice before giving up and installing inner tubes; that solved the problem.

If your wife really wanted an automatic (like mine did), there probably aren't ANY benefits to a stick!

Check eBAy; I've seen a number of 2.2 and 2.5 low mileage engines recently.

The foam in seats does break down over time. Subaru sells replacement foam; last one I bought cost just over $100 (lower cushion only). Once the seat is removed, the upholstery can be removed by cutting the 'hog rings' that secure the fabric to the seat frame. You'll need a pair of 'hog-ring' plires and a supply of new hog-rings to re-attach the fabric. Not a tough job at all, and your seat will feel new again.

Frag, I don't disagree with your point that synthetic oils are superior to petroleum based oils. My point is, since petroleum based oils do an adequate job lubricating and cooling an engine (or other drive train components) for upwards of 200,000 miles, why pay 8x as much for a 'superior' product that will extend the life of your components far longer than the body/chassis will live. How many of us drive cars more than 200,000 miles? Additionally, if you do the math (in 200,000 miles you'll do about 67 oil changes; 335 quarts of oil) at a buck per quart, you'll spend $335 on petroleum based oil; at eight-bucks a quart, you'll spend $2,680 on synthetic oil. It doesn't make economic sense to me. Incidently, I'm not anti-synthetic lubricants. I'm the fleet manager for a county in Oregon that operates more than 1000 equipment units (turf mowers - D8 Cats). We conduct ongoing tests (espcially in construction equipment) to evaluate the cost-effictiveness of (among other things) synthetic lubicants. With very few exceptions (Ford automatic transmissions being one), the OEM factory recommended lubricants have proven to be the most cost effective. That said, I do use synthetic oils in winch cases, large planetary gear-sets, and other select very-expensive, or critical to public safety equipment units.

I'm really surprised at the interest in synthetic oils...It's not uncommon for properly serviced engine using petroleum based oils, to run more than 200,000 miles. While the synthetic oils are clearly 'better', what's the real advantage?

Have you carefully inspected all the vacuum hoses from the engine to the fuel tank for cracks or loose or missing clamps, or looked at the gas cap seal? The entire fuel system should be sealed from the atmosphere. As I recall, any sort of vacuum leak can set a code.

Let me first qualify my answer...I've never installed a Subaru clutch, but have installed hundreds of clutches in vehicles in my years as a mechanic. Typically, if you hold the clutch disc against the flywheel by hand and rotate it, it will have interference on one side of the disc (usually the side the dampening springs), but not the other. Obviously, it must rotate without interference or the clutch won't release when the pedal is depressed. It's generally a good idea to resurface the flywheel when replacing the clutch; often times you must put a shim between the crankshaft and the flywheel equal to the amount ground off the flywheel surface (this will keep the clutch release arm at the correct angle). Your machine shop can advise you about this. Additionally, now's the time to replace both the pilot bushing and throwout bearing. Make sure the clutch disc, flywheel, and pressure plate are free from any grease. Ensure the throwout bearing slides freely on the transmission input shaft bearing collar and put a LIGHT film of grease inside the bearing. Take your time and professional results can be obtained.

I need to replace the aluminum wheels on my '99 Outback and am considering a larger wheel/tire. The existing wheels all leak at the bead and have kissed too many curbs! Has anyone installed larger wheels/tires? Were there any clearance problems, or problems with the ABS system? Anything I should avoid?

DYI is short for 'Do-It-Yourself'. I'm not sure where your connector is; everything manufactured after 1995-1996 must be to the left and below the steering column (Left hand drive cars). Re-post the question and I'm sure someone will respond.

Many DIY auto parts stores will check and clear check engine light codes free. Do you have either Auto Zone or Schucks Auto Parts stores near you?

My '99 2.5 Outback spun two rod bearings at 92,000 miles. I bought the car with a bad engine and don't know the service history. $1,750 for a new short-block, oil pump, etc. (parts only), and I'm back in business.

Seperating the engine from the transmission when removing the engine from my 1999 Outback was also quite difficult. The two dowl pins (pressed into the block) were frozen tight in the trans case from electrolysis. Penetrating oil and vulgar language did nothing to break it free. I finally lifted the tailshaft of the trans with a floor jack, creating a small gap between the trans and engine on each side. I CAREFULLY slid in a thin putty knife on each side of the gap and raised & lowered the jack repeadedly. Slowly I was able to insert the putty knives further and further in the growing gap between the engine & trans (use thicker scrapers as the gap widens). I spent a good 2-3 hours seperating the engine from the trans. CAUTION: you WILL break the transmission case or block if you apply enough uneven force! If you try this, make DARN SURE you've got all the engine to transmission bolts removed. Hopefully someone else will know a quicker & easier trick, if not, take your time and you'll get it.

Can anyone explain the difference between the Phase1 and Phase2 2.5 liter engines?

I'm looking for a dog barrier to fit a 1999 Legacy Outback (without moonroof). If the one you're looking at isn't right for you, please let me know. Thanks

Before I pulled the engine apart, I'd check for evidence of combustion gas in the cooling system. NAPA (or many other quality auto parts stores) sell a tool that allows you to draw air from the cooling system through a liquid that changes color in the presence of combustion gas. The device is less than $35. A good radiator shop can perform the test too. While air bubbles in the radiator are a symptom of a combustion leak (head gasket or cracked head), a stuck thermostat can result boiling the coolant , introducing air into the cooling system. As the coolant circulates, the air bubbles will appear in the radiator neck. Regarding repeaded head gasket failure, do you know if the heads were checked for warpage when the gaskets were replaced? A new head gasket on a warped head is sure to blow again.

As a professional automobile mechanic with more than 33-years in the business, (primarily GM & Ford background) I have heard the myth that grinding valves will result in 'blowing-out' the bottom end many times. I too have seen oil consumption increase after the heads were removed to replace gaskets or grind valves. In nearly all cases, the engine was either badly overheated or had signs that glycol (anti-freeze) had been introduced into the combustion chamber. Either of these cases will damage rings, pistons, and cylinder walls. The valve grind gets the blame for the increased oil consumption, but in reality, the leaking head gaskets caused other damage that didn't show up until reassembly. I don't doub't for a second that many of us have heard and seen this myth.

With all due respect, I strongly disagree with the previous post. While it may be true that an engine looses compression with age, the compression loss would come from worn rings or cylinder wall distortion. A valve either seals, or it doesn't; minimal passage of superheated exhaust gas between the seat and the valve will burn the valve/seat in short order! This is not to say I'd recommend a valve grind on an engine that only needs a head gasket. If it were mine (and the engine ran well before loosing a head gasket), I'd remove the heads and visually check the valve guides through the intake/exhaust ports for oil build-up resulting from bad seals/worn guides and check the head for warpage. A poor-mans way to check for valve sealing is to pour solvent into the intake & exhaust ports and look for leakage between the valve and the seat. Just one mans opinion............

Does anyone know how many years Subaru built the 1999 Legacy Outback body style? I'm looking at a cargo divider for my car on e-bay and wondered what years would interchange.

Your help is sincerely appreciated. I'll install a new knock sensor this weekend and let you know how it worked out. Thanks again!