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Phillip

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Everything posted by Phillip

  1. The odometers are easily re-set; if you've got the ability to change the speedo in your instrument cluster (it's not very difficult), you'll do fine either swapping your old odometer into the replacement used speedo head or re-setting the odometer in your new speedo head. I doub't the spray cleaner will make any difference; the ususal problem with these speedos is the PC board that activates the meter. A sharp electronic technician could probably replace the defective diode, capacitor or transistor in the PC board, but since a new speedo costs less than $150 and complete used can be had for less than $50 (I just bought one on e-bay for $21), it's probably not worth the trouble.
  2. Although you might be able to fool the computer into thinking the system is working properly by removing the fuse (doubtful?), are you really sure that's what you want to do? Is your life, or the life of another motorist worth $130? What do you think your insurance company would say if they were asked to pay a claim for an accident that may have been avoided if you hadn't altered a federally mandated safety system? Could you afford to pay for damages out of your pocket? I'd re-think this idea carefully before proceeding. I'll bet the parts are available from a wrecking yard if you can't afford new parts.
  3. If you're buying the parts, I'd sure recommend OEM Subaru headgaskets! They may cost more (not sure), but they will be the latest and greatest design. This is not a place to be penny wise and pound foolish!
  4. I'd take the car to an independent exhaust shop (Midas or the like) and get a quote. They can often save you big $ by re-using parts of the system that are still good. My son's '88 GL Wagon needed the exhaust system from the cat back; the dealer quoted more than $250 for parts only. A local independent exhaust shop replaced the same parts for $145, including installation.
  5. The speedometer head on these vehicles are troublesome. Does your cruise control work when the speedometer isn't? If so, it's likely the speedo head. The speed sensor usually sets a code and illuminates the CEL when they fail. Try repeatedly pressing the windshield washer button next time the speedo stops working; this often will temporarly fix the problem. I'll bet you'll change the speedo head!
  6. My '99 Outback Wagon had the engine replaced at 91,000 miles (spun rod bearing) and the transmission rebuilt at 96,000. This is my first and last Subaru! Most parts are 'dealer-only' items, rarely in stock, and expensive. As a professional mechanic with 35-years in the business, I'd recommend either a Honda or Toyota. Just one mans opinion.
  7. The burnt fluid you smell on the dipstick indicates burnt friction material (ie clutch pack or band). While changing the fluid my temporarily improve the smell of your trans fluid, damage has already occured. Since the new fluid also smells burned, whatever was slipping in your trans continues to be a problem. It's time for a trip to the transmission shop - very likely for a complete rebuild. Waiting will only increase the repair cost.
  8. Check your owners manual, but as I recall, the scheduled replacement is 105,000 miles. Earlier, of course, if it has been damaged or oil soaked.
  9. I wouldn't change the Oxygen sensor just yet. Check and clear the codes first. We use Sea Foam in our shop (municipal shop with 500 vehicles), and I've had the CEL illuminate after a treatment. I've yet to see a damaged sensor.
  10. My speedo is dying. Anyone know what year model speedometer heads interchange with a 1999 Outback Wagon, or if the automatic trans unit is different from the manual trans version? I've seen a few used clusters from 1997 & 1998 cars on e-bay that look identical, but wonder if they will work.
  11. I put a set of the new Goodyear TripleTred all season tires on my '99 OBW about 5,000 miles ago. I live in Oregon (spelled R-A-I-N country), and couldn't be more satisfied.
  12. The Speedometer in my '99 Outback Wagon is intermittently inoperative and I believe it's the speedometer head that's defective (no computer codes set). Does anyone know of a repair shop that repairs speedo heads, or know where I could find a used speedo for an automatic trans '99 Outback?
  13. The speedo on my '99 OBW with Auto Trans also works intermittently. I tried the windshield wiper button trick you described with no effect.
  14. The speedometer in my '99 OBW (automatic transmission) works intermittently. The CEL is not illuminated, and wiggling the wires between the speedo head, computer, and transmission have no effect. Any suggestions regarding diagnosing this malady will surely be appreciated!
  15. Many DIY Auto Parts Stores will diagnose your system at no charge. In my area, Shucks Auto Supply or Auto Zone do it free. Remember though, just because the trouble code shows a particular malfunction (ie 0325 knock sensor), that doesn't mean the sensor is defective, it means there is a problem in that circuit. Often times the problem is a bad connection or poor ground.
  16. Do you have a digital ohm meter? If so, disconnect the electrical connector between the knock sensor and the wiring harness and check the resistance. It should be 400K -560K. If not, replace the knock sensor. If within range, disconnect the electrical connector at the ECM (on the floorboard on the passenger side and check the resistance between the #3 terminal and ground. If significantly different than your reading at the knock sensor, you've likely got a broken wire or bad connection. E-mail me if you need to know where the electrical connectors are. It's probably a bad knock sensor, but no sense in replacing a part if not necessary. I've got a good used OEM knock sensor that was installed but not used if you want to save some money.
  17. I put a set of the new Goodyear Triple-Tred tires on my 1999 OBW about 5,000 miles ago and highly recommend them for wet weather driving (I live in Eugene Oregon). I've been driving for 36-years and have never owned a better tire!
  18. Another option you may want to consider is to change the seat foam. It's available new from your dealer for about $100.
  19. You're going to get answers all over the board on this question...My advice (25 years as a professional auto mechanic - not Subaru) is to follow the owners manual. If it calls for 5w30 petroleum based oil, then that is what I'd use! While synthetic or synthetic blends purport to be better (whatever better is???), most japanees engine run an easy 200,000 miles using what the manufacturer recommends. Just one man's opinion.
  20. The speedometer on my '99 Outback Wagon stopped working yesterday, but is working again today. My factory service manual gives a test procedure to use only when the 'check engine' light is illuminated; mine is not. Anyone got any experience diagnosing an intemittent problem like this?? Sure appreciate any advice.
  21. Check the automatic transmission cooling lines where they attach to the radiator. It might just be a loose hose clamp. If it line is bad, it is easy to change.
  22. Has anyone removed the left (driver side) cylinder head on an '87 Wagon in the vehicle? My manual says 'in some cases, the engine may need to be removed'. I don't mind pulling the engine, but don't want to if it isn't necessary.
  23. I'm replacing the leaking camshaft seals in my son's 1987 GL10 Turbo Wagon this weekend and also need to reseal the camshaft housing (where the housing meets the head) on the passenger side. Has anyone removed the camshaft housing in the car? Any tips you'd care to share? Sure appreciate any advice. Phillip
  24. The rod bearing is locked into the connecting rod with a tang or pin that prevents the bearing from spinning inside the connecting rod - the bearing slides on a film of oil around the crankshaft. If the rod bearing siezes onto the crankshaft, the bearing will spin inside the connecting rod - very serious problem!
  25. I need to remove the engine from my sons' '87 Wagon to replace a leaking rear main seal but am concerned about removing the exhaust system. The exhaust studs & nuts (at the heads) are badly rusted and coroded; I expect they will break when I try to remove them. I don't have access to a torch, so heating the nuts is not an option. Any suggestions regarding removal of these nuts will be greatly appreciated!
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