Phillip

Does anyone know the test procedure for checking the Knock Sensor on a 1999 Outback 2.5 liter? I pulled (and cleared) codes several times; each time the code for a problem in the Knock Sensor circuit returns. My Motors Manual says the knock sensor ohm reading should be between 400 - 700 (mine is 556). Motors procedure for checking resistance in the wiring refers me to terminal #30 at the ECM; unfortunately for me, there is no wire in terminal #30 at the ECM. With the code cleared, the car runs great, but once the check engine light illumintes (10 - 15 miles after clearing the code), the engine power drops significantly. I suspect the computer goes into 'limp-in' mode, not permitting ignition advance. Any advise will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I've got an opportunity to purchase a very low mileage automatic transaxle out of a 2002 Outback for nearly nothing. Can anyone tell me if it will fit a 1999 Outback?

The engine failed at 91,000 miles. I bought the car with the engine knocking badly. Neither the crank nor 2-rods were salvagable. I can hardly believe how much used engines cost; I paid $1,200 for a new short-block from Subaru. With gaskets, oil pump, valve grind, etc., I'll have about $1,700 in it. The cheapest used engine I found had 95,000 miles on it and was priced at $1695 + freight! The old engine was full of sludge, especially the PCV system (it was totally plugged); I suspect the oil hadn't been changed in a very long time!

Thanks for the quick response! With any luck, I'll have the new engine in and running late today.

I've got two service manuals (Haynes & Motors) that have conflicting head bolt torque specifications. After tightening to 22 ft. lb, then 51 ft. lb., back off 180 degrees, then back off another 180 degrees, torque center bolts to 25 ft lb and outside bolts to 11 ft lbs. (both manuals agree to this point). Haynes says to turn all bolts 180 degrees then turn all bolts another 180 degrees. Motors says just turn the bolts 180 degrees once. I'd sure hate to do this incorrectly - can anyone tell me the proper procedure? Thanks in advance. .

I purchased the car as-is with a blown engine. I later learned it had been towed with the rear wheels on the ground. I've got the engine apart waiting for a crank & rods, but haven't driven it yet. I guess I'll just have to wait until I get it running to assess the damage.

I recently purchased a 1999 Outback with an automatic transmission that had been towed about 20-miles with the front wheels off the ground on a tow-dolly due to engine damage. The FWD fuse was installed. Several members of this fourm have suggested either transfer case or automatic transmission damage has likely occured. Can anyone expand on the potential damage that may have occured? Sounds like a bad day for me!

I'm confused; if installing the fuse makes the vehicle a FWD, why would damage occur if it were towed? The reason I ask is that I just purchased a 1999 Outback with a blown engine; it was towed with the front wheels off the ground (and the fuse installed) about 15-miles. I'm in the process of replacing the engine and hope the previous owner didn't damage the transfer case.

Can anyone tell me what the FWD Fuse Holder located in the right rear corner of my engine compartment is for? I was told to install a fuse in it when towing the vehicle (1999 Outback) with the front wheels off the ground.