tjxtreme

Leola- I know because it rained for 24 hrs straight and I didn't get any leakage. It rained 24 hrs straight the week before, and I had lots of leakage. Nipper- thanks for the link... good to know, I'll bring the muck boots if I ever ride shotgun in your car.

Thanks for all the replies folks. I appreciate the suggestion of an experimental approach... however in this case my girlfriend was coming to town and I just needed the rain gone. Under the front sunroof there was quite a bit of rust. I don't use the sunroof so I didn't really know the extent of this. It has begun flaking off, and the flakes had found their way to rest on top of what appeared to be the drain tubes. There was also a good bit of soil that had formed (from a decade of outdoor parking) at the base of the windshield. I put the Shop Vac on that too. Problem solved for now.

Hi folks, I've been getting some water in my front passenger carpet during the big rains we've had. I have read the other posts on this topic, but still have questions. I can't find the tube outlet at the fender, can someone describe its location? It is not where it is shown in the other thread (http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5283/5206933287_73db66c816.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4085/5206932687_b0a819f7fa.jpg) I have the dual sunroof. Is this water likely coming from the sunroof drain or off the windshield? Where is the water coming into the carpet? (i.e. is there a way I can intercept it before it gets on the carpet until I can actually fix it?) Sorry for so many questions, we're getting 3" of rain tomorrow and its been leaking pretty bad in as little as 0.5". Thanks! '99 OBW w dual sunroof and rust

Thanks for the speedy replies. I will try removing some of the corrosion with the next brake job. Fortunately, I have changed the pads and rotors in the past few years, so none of the bolts are too seized. The two (17mm?) that hold on the caliper were a huge pain the first time I tried... a huge pain.

I have some squeaking/rubbing noise coming from all four wheels. I once thought it was bearings, then I thought it was the parking brake. Upon further inspection (wheel/caliper/rotor removal) I realize that the brake shield (not sure if this is the correct term... it is the sheet metal disc behind rotor) has corroded to the point where it is very lightly chafing the outer edge of the rotor. 1. Has anyone experienced this? 2. I plan on very lightly grinding/sanding off the oxidation... is there any reason I should not attempt this? 99 OBW w 180k miles

Thanks for the advice everybody. I'll ask around for some other mechanic recommendations for future repairs. I'm in Baton Rouge, so I wouldn't think it should be inflated... unless they just don't like Subies. I torqued it to the right setting, according to my manual... but it didn't say anything about angle. I just put it back (more or less) how it was. Thanks Andrew

My '99 outback had the CEL come on, I took it to Autozone to have it read and it was the knock sensor. I took it to my mechanic and they quoted me a whopping $285: $85 labor, $125 part, $75 computer reset. I didn't get it fixed there. $75 to reset the computer!?! really? I went back to Autozone, bought a knock sensor for $46 and a 10" extension and put it on in 30 minutes. 200 miles and the light hasn't come back. Those prices seem way steep- should I find another mechanic?

A long time ago I came to terms with the fact that my rough idle wasn't going away. So many mechanics, no identifiable problems, so many miles. It was all the same. I now find it interesting to note that after getting both half shafts replaced and an entire long block (and no, I didn't get these done for the idle) it is still rough as ever. I'm not much of a mechanic, but this led me to suspect that since the idle was only rough while sitting still, but in gear, it must be something in the rear drivetrain.... unless the new engine had this problem too. I'm not sure if this is conclusive, but I popped in the 2wd fuse to see if the idle was still rough. And yes, it was. Must be a poltergeist or something.

I have a '99 with dual sunroof thats spent most of its life in the hot sun... I never use either sunroof. On the highway, I noticed the front one was becoming louder and louder to the point where it sounds like a window cracked about a half inch. Looking up at it, the glass and foam rubber seal are separated and there is a brown crust... which I presume is dry rotten seal. No water leaking, even in downpours. From the outside, the rubber seal is working its way away from the car, and there is a smaller groove in the seal that is now exposed... it looks like this groove would fit on either side of the roof metal. My first instinct is to just use a nice caulk all around it, but I wanted to see if anyone has had this problem. Thanks, Andrew

I need a new rear bearing on my '99 Leg Outback. From reading around, I see that it can be easier and cheaper to change the whole knuckle assembly. I asked an online vendor if they had them, and they replied saying "yes, a right rear stub axle would be $50 incl. shipping." Is this just a different term or did the guy think I wanted something different? Thanks, Andrew PS any comments on pricing or where to get them online would be great.

I initially suspected parking brake, since the squealing goes away if I engage a couple clicks of the p-brake while slowly moving... But when it still squealed after removing the rotor, I lost hope in that theory. Could it still be a parking brake issue?

'99 Leg outback AWD, 146k miles Its definitely something right inside the rear wheel, because I jacked it up, took off the caliper and rotor. When I rotated the remaining wheel parts, I could hear the shrieking coming from inside all of that stuff.... sorry I don't know the proper terms for that (whatever's left of the wheel assembly after the wheel, caliper, and rotor are removed). Thanks, Andrew

I have some rear wheel squeaking and have ruled out the brake and parking brake systems (took caliper and disc off, still squeaked from further inside). When jacked up, the wheel doesn't wobble at all... just the horror movie shrieking noise. Seeing as I just spent a lot on this car, how long can I wait on this? I don't mind the noise too much, but when does it become a safety issue? Thanks, Andrew

Thanks for the input. There is no VIN that I can find... just a series of 10 or so #s imprinted in the driv-rear side, also some numbers printed on what looks like a label maker back there. I had them put in a new timing belt- a little early, but I figured they might as well while its out. They said everything else looked good behind the timing cover, and that the engine seller does a whole round of testing before they sell. It runs well too, so I guess I can't complain... just cost me an arm and a leg. And all from a dry-rotted crank pulley... be warned! I've read a lot about timing belts on this site and haven't seen anything that mentions the possibility of drive belt problems leading to timing problems and wrecking engines... so here it is! In retrospect, I would have treated my drive belt/pulleys like a timing belt and had them changed preventatively. Andrew

ok, thanks I'll check and report back.

Hi, I have searched extensively for info on engine serial numbers, but have found mixed answers. I just had a used engine installed in my 1999 wagon. The mechanic says its a 50k engine. It runs a lot smoother than my old engine, no leaks...etc... but how can I be SURE it is, before my warranty expires? I take it the serial #s are the ones on the rear driver's side (2.2L). Can you carfax engine #s? If it can't be done, can I at least narrow it down to year? Thanks, Andrew

Long story short, "new" 2.2L engine swapped for my timing-junked 145k 2.5L... by the dealer (cheapest price around, actually). Apparently rebuilt 2.5s are hard to come by (in New England at least). Fine for me, I'd prefer the 2.2 anyway.... but some questions below the link... What started this all... the longer story: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=89143&page=3&highlight=tjxtreme Questions: they seemed to do the swap pretty seamlessly, but there were a couple places that have screw holes, but no screws... not sure if this is from a different engine configuration, or something they forgot. Two screw holes on some brackets coming off the passenger side intake manifold, and also a screw hole a few inches toward the pass-front side on a third bracket. I have a picture, but don't think I can post it... I could email it to someone if they can post. Thanks, Andrew BTW new engine runs smooth... real smooth. It just cost an arm and a leg, thats all.

Ok here's what happened: 1. crank pulley outer ring comes loose 2. shreds drive belt 3. shredded belt wraps around pulleys, finds its way inside timing case 4. chunks of belt wedge under timing belt and cause it to skip, rotating timing by 45 degrees 5. stupid interference engine interferes with itself 6. I'm broke and stranded i know it depends on the degree of damage, but when does fixing an engine become more expensive than replacing one? I wasn't worried about the loose pulley, because I thought the drive belt couldn't mess up the timing, and that I'd just lose accessories.... ... but take note!

I didn't try to start it, but the tow guy tried to back it up onto the flatbed... I was a bit shaken up by the incident and wasn't really thinking that the timing belt could have broken too. Dang hitch is bolted to the tow points... It stalled within a few seconds, but the loosened pulley had slid off at least an inch, and looks like it rubbed the timing cover for a while after it slid the pulley. I could have cruised on the straightaway for a bit not noticing the weakened steering or brakes. I'll keep you posted on what they find.

That makes me feel a bit better... but still fearing the worst. I suppose it could be the battery; it is 3+ yrs old, and I was running headlights, stereo, cigarette accessory, and defroster.... ... but the mechanic is looking at it right now. I feel like a loved one is in the hospital waiting for diagnosis.

Ok then, should I still fear the worst, or is a failed component any better?

I thought the 2.5 L was changed at 100k, and the 2.2 at 60k, no?

at 60k, by the first owner... I was going to get it done soon anyway (I'm at 145k), but too late. uh oh, I can't afford this now... please help!!

99 2.5 145k I have read all I can find on this topic, and it seems as though I may be lucky that it was only the outer ring that came loose (as far as I can tell). I noticed it wobbling a tiny bit the other day, and didn't think much of it given my high mileage. And then.... SLAP. The belt broke, car stalled and I coasted into the shoulder. While cleaning out the strips of belt, I noticed that the outer crank pulley ring was completely loose, and fell into my hand when I touched it. Got lucky there, I guess. My question is this, while it is waiting for the shop to open on Monday: Why wont the car start? It won't turn over, just a gentle tapping noise. I thought you could drive it with a broken belt, and now I'm fearing the worst: damaged engine, timing belt, crushed valves....etc... Can the mechanic re-use the outer ring and just replace the rubber part? If I'm 10k away from the timing belt replacement (1st owner had it done early), should I buck up and get this done while he's at it? Thanks Andrew

So it turns out that the mechanic that my roommate recommended used to own a Subie shop. He didn't even think about anything except a heli coil. Apparently the first helicoil wasn't long enough, so he is confident that all it needed was a longer one- so this one should give the spark plug a little more purchase into the head. This guy didn't have to pull the engine or unmount it like all the other mechanics said. It ended up costing $279, and it was back on the road only a couple hours after he looked at it. Another great tidbit- he just replaced the spark plug wire and plug for that cylinder, and gave me the rest of the wires to use later. I'm tired of mechanics who try to say that all the wires and plugs need changed if there is a problem with one of them.