tjxtreme

Thanks... how much could I expect for an insert (parts+labor)? Do they have to pull the engine? Or can it be installed with the engine mounted. The guy that did my helicoil was one of the few mechanics that would do it without pulling the engine, he just unmounted one side and tilted it. But, then again, it did just fail on me. What about parts + labor for a head swap with timing belt and water pump? $1500 or so? I think the water pump was replaced 70k ago with the timing belt. Thanks again

Thanks, So... on a 2.5L is a Timesert impossible to use, or just less convenient than the 2.2? Or, if I went with a head, any recommendations on where to get one if the mechanic will let me give him the part? The timing belt has another 30k, since the previous owner had it changed early. Should I still get that and water pump changed?

A bad day got worse, when I was cruising down 90 W across Massachusetts. The helicoil I've had for 35k just popped out. I have a 99 Leg. Out. with 135k 2.5l. Here's the history: Blew out a spark plug at about 100k Had a helicoil installed for a pretty penny 130k- spark plug blows out, not helicoil... I was in a rural area at the time, but fortunately I had left my ratchet set, spark plugs, and anti-sieze lube in my car the day before, so I just let it cool down and swapped it out. Now, on the way to my brothers bachelor party, the whole deal goes on me. When the tow truck arrived, we pulled out the loose wire (with spark plug attached to it) and saw that the spark plug had the helicoil around it, and the threads on the spark plug had melted. Yeah, the metal melted. Almost 170 miles from home, and needing to make it to a party 200 more miles away in a few hours, the tow guy took me to an Avis so I could rent a PT Looser, purple. I had AAA gold, so they could tow 100 for free, and I ended up paying to get it towed home while I continued on my way. New to the area (Cape Cod for a year long job), I didn't have a mechanic yet. I called my roommate and had her ask around her office for a respectable shop. My car is there now, but they can't even look at it until Tuesday. Other problems include me having no way to get to work, me not even having enough money to cover the tow and rental car (credit card for now). WHAT SHOULD I DO AND HOW MUCH WILL IT COST!? the tow guy even suggested...selling it! I am not ready for that, as I think that aside from this problem, the engine has a long life left. THANKS!!

I see... thanks.

I'll look for rust too... there is a fair bit back there.

It could be classified as a scraping, I guess. I'll check the dust shields... the only way I can think they got bent was if the wrench hit the dust shield while I nailed it with a hammer getting the caliper bracket bolts off. They look more solid than that though, and I think I wouldve noticed.

With the arrival of spring, I have noticed a definite rise in gas mileage of my outback 2.5 with 130k miles. Today, I measured 28 on a whole tank of hwy miles. Since EPA hwy estimate is 27, and those are often criticized for being inflated, I have the following hypotheses: 1. AWD is possibly just FWD... how do I check (aside from peeling out in a mudpuddle while looking back out the window)? 2. Increased gas prices have led me to drive even more conservatively- accellerating slowly, keeping very very steady rpms on the hwy, and coasting to a stop instead of gassing it and then stomping the brakes.

Just did the rotors and pads (semi metallic) on the rear brakes of my Leg. Outback w/ 130k, and now I hear a slight grinding while turning either way. I jacked it back up, inspected everything I did and it all seemed fine. It doesn't seem related to whether the brake is applied or not. I thought it was maybe just them getting bedded in, so I drove it a little and it seems to have gotten better... or maybe it is just in my head. Any ideas? The closest thing I could find that matched were symptoms of bad bearings... is there I chance I damaged them trying to remove the rusted-on rotors? Thanks, Andrew

I am trying to narrow down the possible causes for my rough-er than normal idle (the one where it makes you want to put it in neutral while you wait at a stoplight). Smooth in neutral, rough in drive, although only gets rough after having been stopped for about 5 seconds. I thought/hoped it was the EGR valve, but I took it off and tested it and it seemed fine- not too much carbon buildup, diaphragm holds vacuum, holes to engine free of carbon. I did the Haynes recommended test, where I watched to see if the pin moved while I manually raised the throttle. It did, but it didn't stay up, it just went up then down. Next place I looked was the EGR solenoid. It did the same thing. When I raised the throttle, it went from zero vacuum to a quick burst of about 14-18 inHg, then back to zero. Is this good, or is it supposed to stay until I lower the throttle? I also tested the general engine vacuum, as detailed in Haynes chap. 2b5 vacuum test. I connected the gauge directly to the intake manifold, and it read a strong and steady 22 inHg in Park. Just to see what would happen, since my problem is when its in DRIVE, I positioned the gauge so I could see it through the windshield. I put it in drive, and it dipped down to about 16 or so, and remained steady until I put it back in P. Is this ok, or am I making progress? Thanks, Andrew

Thanks for the great post. I went ahead and tried this on mine, and the resulting finish is much better than they were before, although not as good as yours. I can still see the scratches left by sanding very lightly with the 2500 grit, and am wondering if I should go to a finer grit? Or, alternatively, should I try an enamel? I read a lot about clearcoats and enamels, but what kind? Thanks, Andrew

I will be interested to see if that makes a difference. I have often wondered if changing them would help.

Oops. Not low idle... I assumed the ticks started at zero. Planning to look at timing.

Ahhh... I see. My bad. They should have one of those little zig zags like the ones they make you use on graphs in math class. I assumed the scale started at zero. Thanks, I may sack up and get the timing looked at.

I fear timing belt problems... if that thing comes off, I am getting the whole shebang (pump, seals..etc.) because it is due within 30k. It very well may be, however, as I doubt the mechanics would go to such lengths to diagnose a low/rough idle. If simpler fixes dont cut it, that is probably where I'll look.

Yeah, thats the one. There isn't a tick for 250, but a tick for 200: the first one. They go 200, 400, 600, 800, and then the big 1000 rpm mark. Mine is just above the 200 one.... I would estimate it fluctuates between 250 and 300 rpms, according to my tach which may not be accurate. But the number isn't important... it shakes the whole car because it is too low.

I feel your pain and I am eager to hear what they say- I have a very similar problem- it idles at about 250 and shakes the whole car, but never stalls. A variety of non-dealer mechanics can't find anything wrong. I am scared of the dealer... very scared. I just paid $30 for an OEM brake caliper pin bushing kit... one tiny piece of rubber was all that I needed.... extrapolating on that, they will probably say that you can't buy just one part of the engine, you have to buy a short block cause thats all they've got.

Thanks. I am going to work on getting the idle up to spec... according to my Haynes (which is actually for a '98) it CAN be adjusted on cars following a VECI instructions sticker under the hood, but requires a special handheld tach that pulls an accurate RPM from a harness under the hood. I will also look into getting a vacuum gauge. Has anyone set their idle using this method? Are these readers expensive? Dmanaenk- On my '99 the tach is graduated in 200 RPM increments, so assuming it is accurate, it reads slightly above the first tick which is about 250--- regardless, it is just really low.

The mechanic did my wires, as they were under warranty. I'll check them, but it ran rough well before that too. 10k on tranny fluid and about 200mi on fresh oil. Do I really have to jack the engine up to check the motor mounts, or is there a simpler way? Thanks

'99 Outback 2.5L 130k idles at about 250rpm BACKGROUND: It has ran rough since I bought it at 70k. The previous owner had tried to get it fixed a number of times, and I had it checked out before I bought it. They all concluded that "that is just how it is." I was under the impression that the Boxer engine allowed it to run even smoother that a V engine. SYMPTOMS: Rough running is most apparent when the tranny is in D at a stoplight, although I am not sure if it is just because my foot is on the brake so I can feel it more. It is pretty rough, and worsening, to the point where I often put it in neutral when waiting at a light. It runs mediocre at above idle rpms. No check engine light. QUESTION: What can I check first, before a mechanic tells me I need expensive internal engine repair? MAINT. REC'D.- Timing belt has 60k on it New wires, plugs have 10-15k PCV, fuel filt., air filt. have 10k Thanks, Andrew

Nipper- Thanks, I'll try the car wash idea. This may help: the leaks on the engine block were from the seal closest to where the spark plug wires connect to the plugs. I'm pretty sure that one of the parts being joined by that has a raised grid pattern on it... does that help? I guess it would make sense that if something was going to come loose and leak, it would be exaggerated by extremely cold weather.

Hello, '99 2.5L 130k I recently noticed three engine oil leaks that weren't there before... all seem somewhat serious, as hanging drops are clearly visible in several places. Here's the sequence of events... I moved from Florida back to Ohio, and it sat in my cold driveway for a month and a half while I was out of town (my dad drove it several times though). When I went to check the oil, it was barely on the dipstick. So I decided to do an oil change, and have a look underneath. It turns out, it was missing about a half quart of oil. It appears that the leaks are from BOTH head gaskets, and either the oil pan gasket or ...rear main. My questions are: Why did this happen all of the sudden, and what is the expected gasket life in Subarus? Is this rate of leakage (.5 quarts over 1-2 months) cause for concern? How much would it cost to have head gaskets replaced? do they have to pull the engine, or could an oil-change-and-brake-job guy like myself attempt this? ...any other advice on how I should handle this would be greatly appreciated Thanks, Andrew

Thanks... I'm not sure if it was the same one, because I had both front ones replaced last time at a "Brakes Plus," Or rather "Brakes Minus"... that was a terrible joke, they should ban stuff like this from the message board. This time, now that I am more knowledgable, I checked them myself and found what those guys probably neglected to tell me about. I'll try the sticky pad theory first, then probably just replace if that doesn't do it. Are there any respectable aftermarket brands, or is OEM the only way to go?

I had warped front rotors about 50k ago, got them replaced, and it was gone. Now it is back, and particularly noticable at highway speeds (through the steering wheel and brake pedal). I took the fr. wheels off, and inspected the brakes... all I could find that was wrong was a broken boot on a caliper slide pin. I live on a sandy road, and all kinds of sand was in there...etc. So, I cleaned and lubed it for now and will get a new boot (if possible). What next, Could this be the cause of the warping or should I look somewhere else? Should I get the rotor machined or get a new one? brand? Can I replace one side and not the other? The pads are still thick and evenly worn... do I need to replace them too? Thanks, Andrew

I was checking the wiring harness with the key in the 'on' position, but engine off, according to the haynes manual. I'll give it a try with the engine on. Also, I cant get the test leads into the solenoid. Do you recommend unbolting the solenoid or removing the offending hoses to gain access? Thanks, Andrew

Thanks, I found it. I couldn't get the leads in to check the solenoid resistance (but I will once I have time to move some stuff and get more room to work with back there), but the voltage to the solenoid read 2.5 mV. Is this appropriate? It seems low. Thanks, Andrew