SubieBrat
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Posts posted by SubieBrat
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Can you let me know how the wire work on it and which one you bought? ive been trying to find a place to by a decent ignition switch
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Didn't you just change the injectors?
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That's how i originally had installed it and it melted the coating off of the wire within about 15 seconds.
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Ok well i have no clue for sure what years of harness i have but the same exact computer that came with the 96 legacy (It says 8D in big letters) and worked when I plug it into the other harness for the manual, so they are the same computers. All i need to know is where to place a jump wire or something. I want this to be an easy fix. i just want it to run correctly. Lets go back to basics.
I Have an auto harness computer 8D
EA82 D/R No neutral switch on tranny
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No Neutral switch in Brat
Hmmm......No something is wrong. There is no issue wiring an auto to a manual.
Let's get some basic info.
Year and model of Harness? (this will help us confirm you are using the correct pin)
Model of trans installed? If you swapped a 5spd you might have a Nuetral switch in the trans already.
And where did you hook up "a switch from the junkyard" becasue there is nowhere to "add" a nuetral switch. Did you get a Clutch switch? and if so did you get the one for the Cruise control (Normally closed) or one for the starter lockout (normally open)?
I believe it is a late model 95 Forester Auto(not quite sure harness was laying around my friends shop for a year or two).
5 spd Tranny im not sure i bought it from a friend of a friend but i do i know there is no neutral switch on the tranny
Now for the switch I removed the top bolt on the clutch pedal put the switch in its place. I saw that done to another brat at the same time i was swapping my brat the only difference was the harness for that brat was out of a 96 legacy 5spd.The switch was off of the clutch on a 97 outback and its the starter lockout.You may want to get an Ecu from a manual tranny car
ECU was the same for my harness and the 96 legacy 5spd
That isn't nessecary.
Older ECU's you can tell them to be either by grounding a pin. Newer ones simply wire it to think it's in gear with the clutch out, i.e "not in nuetral or park" and with clutch in to think it's in park.
If the OP will post year and model of ECU....I can tell him excactly which pins to tap and ground
If you also have a correct VSS installed it should work fine.
I used the pin out from the 96 legacy book, beings that it was the same computer. I have the VSS tied in to the back of my instrument cluster where the cruise control sensor would normally tie in and it reads accurately.
The brat with the 96 harness had the same problem as mine, with the same set up, and was fixed with the switch. So if we're going by the 96 harness diagrams, could I run a jumper wire from the Blue-red starter wire to pin 86 and just bypass it?
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My 85 did close to same thing on cold days. would start until it warmed and would run low on amps and quite cranking. ended up being a shot battery. I would say take it to O'rielly's, autozone, just somewhere that you can get the battery tested and see if it drained so badly it wont hold enough of a charge to start when cold
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The harness is from an auto and I have a switch i picked up at the junkyard. I had installed it as a manual would be and the wires basically caught fire.
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Ej frankenmotor
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About 90% of the time it bounces between 500-1200 rpm, rather annoying and is kinda hurting my mileage.
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Ok so I swapped my brat and there is an idle problem. I have confirmation from a Subaru mechanic that it is the neutral switch not being installed. I am curious what is the best way to install one? I have one, but I need to know what pins to attach it to. Do I put it on the tranny computer harness or what? i tried to wire it like a manual and the wires completely burned of their coating.
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Yeah it was the one in worland. I rotated the blocks 180 degree and it fixed it. Virtually rust free. I was very supprised with body.
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Bought this Brat on Sunday in Worland, Wyoming. 4/5 lift, 15 inch pugs, jump seats have been added. A little hail damage, and a bit of surface rust.
My plan:
Ej Frankenmotor swap
5 speed d/r
rear disks
possibly add power steering
Fix surface rust
paint white with black bottom
White one currently has the frankenmotor and tranny but is extremely rusty
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Does it still have the Hitachi? Mine did the same thing before i put the weber on. Ran great until the motor gave out
Also does it randomly shut off and not start again for a few minutes and still runs bad after?
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What trans would go behind the ej and work in a 80 brat
An EA 82 5spd dualrange or Ej series tranny. I would personally recomend the Ea tranny. Lots of modification for an Ej tranny to fit in the brat. I put an Ea 5spd in this summer its fairly easy. The biggest thing is to make sure you have all the pieces for it. The plate mounts to the dual range easily. Drives great
Oh also i believe 1985 was the first year there was carbureted hydraulic lifters in all EA81. not quite sure but pretty positve. Mine was Hydraulic and it was a stock 4 speed when i bought it.
I know if you go with a carbureted Ej then you have to make a custom intake. I have heard of somebody using a side draft carb where the throttlebody goes and doing it that way but then it again its a lot of hassle. i would say the easiest way to do the 22 is to go fuel injected. I thought about carbureted but i didn't want the extra modifcation on top of what i already had to do.
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Yea I am running a hitachi but contemplating moving to a webber soon, although the most intensive fix I have done is a tie rod at this point, I am a bit unexperienced. What does it take to put a maual choke on it?
I believe once you take the filter off its a matter of a few bolts. i think 3. the kit comes with everything you need. just need to find a mounting place. i did it to mine a little over a year ago, so i dont remember. Then it died so i put the weber on it. But its very easy. i would suggest mounting the plunger in the little hole on the left of your steering column. it helped quite abit compared to the electronic.
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Quick question are you running a hitachi or weber? Hitachi doesn't start well in cold. when i had it, it would take a few minutes because my choke quit working. Piece of crap carb... But the weber is good. If you have the hitachi i would recommend putting a manual choke on it. Its about 10 bucks, and take about a half hour or so to install. Helps a lot in the cold
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personaly i think the whole normal GL kit is fine. I put a frankenmotor to my transmission and runs just fine with the stock GL kit
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how much do those bad boys run at the Subie dealer? Is it even a stocked item for our older cars? I'm not a fan of over priced dealer stuff but there is one about an hour away and it might be worth the drive. Otherwise I can order a pair on line. all the local parts places list that "flange gasket" but not avail or special order.
Gaskets at the dealer are actually cheaper than you would think. especially for the quality. i think its maybe a few bucks more and they usually keep it in stock. i go down the dealership and the almost always have the gaskets i need. other major parts not so much. takes a few days for those
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in our climate we have a lot of moisture . it tends to collect in the transmission and low temps make the gear oil awfully thick .
but that's the thing. it doesn't feel stiff, if shift normally other than reverse. tranny feels like it does on a warm day, other than reverse. it is like theres two positions for neutral
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I'll have to try that. my only concern though is the thickness of the tranny case. think it would heat through it enough?
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Ok so I recently put a five speed d/r into my Brat. Had a few problems with not going into reverse before, put the shims in the bolts and fixed that problem, but now its doing the same thing as before. Except this time it only when my transmission is cold.
I live in Colorado and we've been having some cold nights and It like reverse doesn't exist, but the second I drive for a few minutes and warm it up its perfectly fine. Only does it when its colder than about ten degrees.
Anyone have any ideas how I could fix this? Possibly an idea for a "cozy" or some sort of way to keep it warm at night.
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Car keeps overheating, guess I can't get the air bubbles out very easy. Trying to figure out how to best do this. I have an expansion tank instead of a cap on the radiator. Damn brz radiator. I think I need an air bleed tube. Still need front axels as well. I don't have anywhere to do it right now and the street doesn't sound like a great place to have to do it.
Did you fix the fan problem? My dad and i had to wire the fan on the brat to on with the key. -Calvin
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Finally got the engine moved from my shop to the garage and buttoned up.
Have a Weber and front struts ordered and enroute, picked up rear shocks locally... All go on this week along with wiring the third eye and my NOS fog lights and hope to have it completed this weekend or early next week... (I won't hold my breath)
Where did you order your struts from? im having a hard time finding a good place that i can get good struts from for my brat
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hmm... thats weird. I would suggest talking to ShawnW
CV nut coming loose
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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My CV axle nut on my 85 brat constantly comes loose on the front driver side wheel and makes my brakes grind when I press on them. I have a cotter pin it, its the one that came with them when i purchased the axles.
I have no clue whats causing it to come loose or how to fix it. It comes loose every few days. Anybody know why or how i can solve this problem?
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/118112-axle-nut-failure-point-reachedat-45mphhelp/?hl=%2Baxle+%2Bcoming+%2Bloose
This thread seems to be close to same symptoms of what mines doing, except for the shearing and other fun stuff. i just need this to keep me going for a few more weeks until i can get my other brat running.