Moosen
-
Posts
355 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by Moosen
-
-
Thanks for all your wonderful help with my 87 ea82 guys. But I have just sold her no less than an hour ago
sad to see her go but I needed something safer and more reliable. So I recently acquired this bad boy.
she's a 2005 2.5rs and it's called the gravel wagon. Full skiplate and diff protector, K sport gravel spec coilovers, light bar, lightened pulleys, strut braces, swaybars, fender braces, roof scoop, 04 wrx hood scoop, bumpin system, apexi exhaust. I love love love it!!!
currently it's lowered 1" and stiff for track use but in the winter I will be putting my hankook studded ice pikes on and raising the car 2" above stock.
-
TheSubaruJunkie had some 2wd XT struts and springs on his RX a few years ago.
The reason why the 2wd stuff is longer in the rear is because they mount to the trailing arm where the axle would be on the 4wd setup.
If you want to lower it for the sake of lowering it, just get some Impreza coilover sleeves off of ebay. Cost under $100 usually for a set of four and they are adjustable typically. I have 2 sets; one on my XT6 and the other on my RX.
Yes where is a link to these?
-
I am constantly driving my weberized ea82 at 6000-9000ft elevation and I get 20-24 mpg. I just live with it. I have tuned that thing so many times and can't figure it out. 20 degrees advanced on disty, and i am running a 135 and 140 main jets and 190 and 200 air jets. I diesel a little bit when i turn the car off sometimes. but other than that she runs fine. would be nice to get better fuel economy though.
I have the disty advance hooked up to the port on the right front of the weber? under the choke linkage. is that correct?
-
Really liked the second look!
-
What the what? What kinda car is that?
-
is it possible to remove the ball joint fromt he control arm without a pickle fork. I removed it fromt he knuckle already easily, but i have just been banging up on the castle nut to try and get it to pop out of the control arm? is that possible?
-
That is sooooo sick!
-
Are you saying I should advance my disty even more to rid the bog? I am already running around 12 or 13 degrees.
I am just tired of this tuning! Urgh.....
-
-
-
stock? or weber?
weber
-
So i finally have been adjusting my choke. I closed it up and it starts actually now. and on a dime. But was restricting when driving. So i opened it more and it started and drove pretty well, some chugs every once in awhile. So i just drove home (7min drive) and checked the choke plates when i got home and they werent all the way open. engine temp said warm.
So shouldn't they be vertical and all the way open? So I opened the choke till the were vertical, but then I get a problem where when WOT from Idle the car bogs, and or dies? So what do I do about this?
-
That is sick! Where did you get it?
Finally adjusted my choke. What wonders it has done! My car actually starts! Woooooo. I think it's a little too closed though cause my car chokes up when driving after 200 yds sometimes
-
Does your exhaust still have the factory heat shields on the cats and midpipe? They could just be expanding from the heat. I have a new factory exhaust with heat shields on my EA82, and there is a tinging while running, and cooling.
Yeah factory. I need to replace the whole thing. I have a whole in my muffler and cat
-
That is possible. I am just now getting into carbs, so you'll have to pardon my ignorance, its a learning curve. But then again, its all shear mechanics and pretty straight forward for the most part.
I know my old EA81 Hitachi had a hiccup when I'd rev it more then 1/4 throttle off idle. But then again, my carb was original and probably worn. Once it was off idle, you could rev it WOT with out any issues. Just of idle it would stumble.
and there is a strange tinging sound at around 4k rpm. Sounds like it may be the exhaust where the heat piping ran up to old engine. down below the passenger cv axle.
-
Wide Open Throttle (I know, I just figured that out a few months ago lol)
Choke shouldn't be an issue with the DGEV, I forgot, did you get a new carb or used?
For starting, I would push the pedal down fully once, let it up, then start. Holding the pedal down isn't needed.
I bought a brand new one. and the trans adapt 2107.
mmkay well could it be getting too much air in the secondary?
-
Lol. Its a Weber swap EA82 IIRC
Secondary no opening right away? Take the air cleaner off, and rev it by hand and see what the carb is doing.
Yeah it's what he said. Yeah I thought it might be something with the choke. But wouldn't explain why once it is warmed up when the choke is open why it does that.
also was does WOT stand for?
-
This remedy your issue?
seemed to do the trick. My car still stumble when i put the pedal to the metal at idle.... what is that from? even after the car is warm. it like stutters than revs. and if the engine is cold then it dies. also if im starting my car with the pedal on the floor it wont go.
any ideas?
-
Installed new fuel pump! Stoked!
-
Success! Fuel pump works!
-
never heard of it ahaha
-
1 3 5
.╠╬╬╗.
2 4 6 R
hehe tranny
-
Why don't you just spend $1,000 on an 1990-'95 EJ22 swap. Then spend another $1,000 to buy a cheap Legacy/Impreza to drive until you finish the EA82.
You should be able to find more then a gaggle of $500 Subarus out your way. My Loyale was a $500 car 6 years ago, look at it today
wait im confused.... your telling me it only costs a grand to but a 2.2 in my car?
-
Buy 6 1k beaters.
sigh..... :-p
And I am out!
in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
Posted