AWDWagonator

Well, everyone is right not having fluid tears up bushings and clutches when towing with all wheels on the ground. However, if the car runs, you can start the engine and tow that short. As long as the trans pump is running fluid is circulating and you're good. If it doesn't run, you'd have to pull every drive shaft...seems like more work than getting your dolly.

Welp, I had some time today, and I needed to fix it, and didn't want to waste time. So here's some pics of what the swiss cheese filler neck looked like and what i used to fix it. I used a pipe cutter to cut the pipe, not taking any chances with a sawzall or cutoff wheel I used fuel filler neck hose, as regular rubber hose would swell and fail. It was about 19 dollars for the foot, kinda pricey, luckily I didn't need alot. Then I situated the pipes right, and put it in, and it went easier than I expected. So, total cost was about 21 bucks, I tested it with some old gasoline, and it didn't leak....drove some big hills, still no leaks. I'd prefer this over the replacement anyway. Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys.

The charcoal canister is behind the filler neck on this one...

Does anyone know what years are compatible?

its a 1997 legacy L wagon. Thanks!

hmm....I'm def. too cheap for that. I'll think of something to fix it ...I'll let you know what I do.

So I got the diff in my soobie and drove it 1200 miles this weekend and didn't have an issue. Junkyard extension housing/duty c noid, and clutch pack fixed my blinking tranny light too. Except I noticed the gas filler neck is starting to leak? Has anyone encountered this? How did they fix it? THanks.

I suspected wheel bearing too. But I ran it with it up in the air and crawled underneath it, Its Definitely coming from the differential, no doubt.

Status Update: So I was never able to get the ATF TEMP light to blink. But, I figured with the symptoms of no FWD light with fuse in, the fact there was a code, and what seeme to be binding in the rear wheels. I went to the junkyard and picked up a rear extension housing out of a '98 outback with a 2.2, only 130k on it, and the fluid looked to be in great shape, as well as the clutches and steels. So I got it put in, I reset the ATF TEMP blink by disconnecting the battery, and viola, the FWD light came on with the fuse in. So that was great. I let it drive on jack stands, and everything seems to work. But.....I drove it, and it definitely has a noise from the differential. Still no blinking ATF TEMP light, so I'm pretty sure it had a bad Duty C Solenoid anyway. Thus lies my question. Can driving with a bad Duty C, and the torque bind, Cause the Differential to fail? I'm gonna go back up to the yard and get the diff out of the same outback. Any write-ups on this on the boards? Thanks.

I first thought that said India...and I was puzzled by what part of that isn't foreign...but I got it now! I didn't know they were built in indiana. The more I get into this car, the more I really like them. Very good designs for practicality, as well as serviceability. I might be sticking with them. Thanks again for this site, there's a lot of good info in past posts using the search tool.

you mean connect pin 5 to the ground wire, and then to run? Yes. I"ll go do it again. EDIT: I just went out and messed with it a bit, I connected it, turned the key to run, and it just stays illuminated, will not blink. Whats the deal?!

so I found the black connector, and the 2 ground leads, grounded pin 5, and I still couldn't get the light to blink with key out, KOEO as well as KOER. I also hooked it to battery ground, still nothing.

you're right...1997 subaru legacy L 2.2l Thanks.

Type: Professional, shadetree, maintenance What: Too many to even remember, have done a little bit of everything, but do have GM certification How Long: been into it for about 10 years, but mostly done it the last 4 years or so. Other skills Boats, Composites, Welding and fab work, CAD/CAM CNC, Milling, Lathe, Computer and mathematical modeling Matlab, CF design, Star CC. Other hobbies.

what years will fit, if I were to find one at the junkyard? All models?

I'm pretty sure that's the problem too, I really wanted to pull codes so I was sure and wasn't throwing parts at it, but it sounds like thats gotta be it. So the real question is: where can I get the solenoid and the clutches? Is it dealer only? yes, I mentioned in my post I tried the FWD fuse to no avail. The noise sounds like an awful grinding/rubbing noise like a bearing, but I'm pretty sure I'm experiencing the torque bind around the turns. Hard to tell honestly. And as a Just in case question...Is a rear wheel bearing a dealer only item? Is there a post about it on here somewhere? Thanks again.

So I've read alot on this forum about the problem I'm having and I need a hand figuring this out. WARNING: this will be a long post, but I want to detail it so you know where I'm at for the optimum assitance. Background: I bought the car knowing it had a noise in the rear, the guy said it needed a diff. I didn't even look into it, took his word and bought a diff for 160 bucks from a yard. Well, upon awaiting its arrival, I noticed the AT temp light blinked upon start up, and thought that shouldn't be. So I looked it up, and saw that meant stored code in TCM. I tried to pull transmission codes with an OTC Genysis scan tool, and I couldn't. So then I tried the secret handshake about...10 times...and could NEVER get the light to blink, it just stays solid. Here's how I did the handshake. I let the car warm up. then backed it down the street. Started it, let it run for a few seconds, Shut it off, turned the key to on, waited a few seconds, started it, drove it over 12mph (up to about 38 mph) for about 10 seconds, pulled over and stopped, put the shifter down in "1", then I shut the car off. Then I put the car in ON (KOEO) and put it in "2" then "1" then "2" then "3" then "D". My foot was on the brake ever since I stopped, but I didn't see where I couldn't do that. This seemed right to me, I never got anything. Also, should that AWD light come on for bulb check when starting? I don't see it, and when I put the fuse in the AWD fuse holder, the AWD light doesn't come on either. When the fuse is in the fuse holder, I still have the noise from the rear. Since I can't pull codes, I think the only way to verify whether its a diff, wheel bearing, or the duty c solenoid would be to disconnect the driveshaft from the diff and try driving it and see if the noise is still there. What do you guys think?

Gonna be traveling alot lately, and go to school in MN, so I need to get around in the snow. so I found an AWD 97 subaru legacy L WAGON for 400 bucks, so I bought it on a whim. It needs some work, so I'll be posting whats up in the forum, I need some help! Wanted to say hi, and I've been reading through here, and there's some great information. Thanks for such a great site!