mr sarcastic

Kind of a vague question, but I'll take a stab at it. How about an early ej22 with an escort distributor and weber carb.

Things like this keep me up at night.

The click you hear is the wot switch on your pedal assembly. So, on spfi the IACV controls idle at operating temp. I'm fimiliar with this, style, many of the cars I've worked on in the past have these. On mpfi, the aav only controls idle on cold starts. It's open or closed based off temp... So what controls idle at operating temp on mpfi? What controls cold start idle on spfi? I guess my real question is why would subaru have to different systems for this? I don't care that ones turbo and one isn't, many manufacturers have turbo and non turbo cars that share almost the same FI. Just larger injectors, maps, ect.

After thinking about it, it's probably cause the injector for the spfi is in the throttle body. You can't just bypass air around the TB to raise the idle like an aav would. The air wouldn't have any fuel mix and it would be lean....

Seriously though, why would subaru have 2 different systems for idle control between the spfi and mpfi?

I didn't realize there was a difference between the 2, spfi and mpfi. I've never had a spfi, I'm using an aav on my mpfi.

Haha, I lived on Forrest ave in Orono when I went to Umaine.

where are you from in northern maine? i grew up in fort kent/van buren.

Maybe you need to mess with your choke? Many carb's need the choke to be adjusted in the winter to richen it up a little more. As for winter tires, you don't need to change them unless you like to stop and turn better in the snow and ice. Your 4wd will get you to move through most anything, but it won't help you stop or turn.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141806-aaviacv-questions/?fromsearch=1

I can't say for sure how the subaru unit works, but I can tell you how I fixed mine. I have the ea82t so I have the one that's mounted on top of the thermostat. I busted mine testing it cause I'm hard on parts... So I ended up using a IACV from a vw. The concept it the same, and its worked great. Even in the single digit temps we've had lately. I wired in the 12v plug, connected the hoses, and it works great. High idle when cold is 1200-1400, then it drops down to 800-900. The vw unit has a bimetal strip that heats up when 12v is applied, and it that shuts the valve. I'll assume the subaru unit works similarly. I don't know if the ecu needs to see any resistance from it, I'd assume no.

I took my gl-10 on its first road trip in the snow this weekend. It's got winterforce studded tires, d/r 5 speed. We got a foot of snow Saturday into Sunday, so naturally I decided to head to the mountains Sunday to snowboard. I left at 6am, right in the prime of the storm. Passing snow plows, maintained 40-50 in 5th most of the way. I had to cross over Franconia notch which is pretty damn close to the top of Mt Washington. The only sketchy part was the visibility... Plowing out of the driveway, driving on completely unplowed roads, none of that was an issue. It was a 130ish mile trip one way and it only took me 20-30 minutes longer then normal.

Definately doesn't make sense. The plug to the IACV is a simple 12v power source for a heating element in the valve. When its cold the valve is open, but as it heats up it shuts down. It's a valve that's only use is to bypass air around the TB when cold to raise the idle. So unplugging it shouldn't have anything to do with reving past 3/4 throttle. The coolant temp sensor controls when this valve gets 12v. Maybe you should start looking into that? The plug connection gets corroded, so that could be your issue, or the sensor itself. Mine was bad, and it gave me a wonky idle and overall I was running rich.

96 and newer out here in NH. And it's not even a sniff test, it's visual and a plug into your diagnostic port. Both easy to fool.

ah.... emissions...

I'll get cheeky and recommend the weber swap. There is no reason not to do the upgrade.

My had "factory fogs", but the original paper work showed them as a dealer add on. When I got the car, the switch was there but the fogs were gone. More paperwork showed that they were complaining about a battery drain, and the fogs were the culprit. Most of the harness was taken back out, you can still see I the wiring where they added it in.

I've high centered my subaru before, but its only been on the bank at the end if the driveway made by the snow plow. It's only happened because its semi packed snow and I didn't hit it at the right speed. In your typical snow, 12" or more from one storm or even more from multiple storms added up, I've had very good experiences. I run studded winter tires, and I've been doing it for 20 years so experience plays a part. I've had my subaru in such deep snow that it was higher then the bumper and coming over the windshield. Couldn't see where I was going, but the car wasn't stopping.

Many manufacturers use 2 seperate sensors, one for the gauge and one for the ecu. One of my vw's has 3. One for the gauge, one for the ecu, and one to control the after run fan/pump. It has an electric water pump and it'll pump water and run the fan after the car is off so the temp won't spike.

Do the sensors for the digi dash have a different resistance from the regular gauges?

Please elaborate how you used an independent temp gauge. Not saying I don't believe you, I'm not gonna be one of those EJ swap pushers. Just want to know where you mounted the sensor and all that....

Dude must have junk tires.... Tires mean everything in the winter, it's funny to me when people buy suv's or pickups and think they'll be invincible in snow. They leave the stock tires on and think that's gonna be fine. This is where I feel awd has given most drivers a false sense of security. Sure you got out of your driveway but the awd won't help you stop at a stop sign or give you traction in a turn that's incorrectly banked. That's where good tires come in. That being said, there is a fault with ea82's, they don't weigh squat. We have an Audi a6 wagon Quattro, and it definately plows through the bank at the end of the driveway, first shot. The Subaru I can feel lift up as I push through, so I have to back up and take multiple shots at it.

If your exhaust is leaking before your o2 sensor, it'll cause the motor to run lean.

It's unlikely that there's an exhaust leak that's messing with your o2 sensor reading, unless its the turbo/downpioe gasket. The o2 sensor is a couple inches past the turbo, most leaks are past that. X2 on pulling a plug to see what they look like. If it starts fine when cold then goes to spoob after, it's probably one of your sensors. It's running a set fuel map when cold then looking to your sensors to determine fuel ratios after the coolant temp sensor says its warmed up. So, o2 or MAF, maybe even the coolant temp sensor. Clean the MAF, and the others are super cheap on rockauto. Oil in your air filter makes me think the MAF is dirty.

I'll bet your running rich problem is also causing your idle problem. It'll be a good idea to get new spark plugs once you have it sorted out, they're probably pretty loaded up and that's why I won't idle.