mr sarcastic

Your heater core is clogged up. Mine did the same, I flushed it and let some CLR set in it for a bit, then flushed it again. The heat came back like new after that.

Definately sounds like timing. Do you have a vacuum pump to help you bleed brakes? If so, connect it to the vacuum advance and see if it holds vacuum.

Junked it?!?! Wtf, I'd given you a couple hundred over scrap prices and picked up...

i'm just the type of guy that likes factory wiring to stay in the car its in. if i can make it work, i will. its easier for me considering where i live, the state of NH is very laxed about emissions.

Ya, that's a big plus. Here in NH the only emission testing is for obd2 cars, cars prior to 96 are a free for all. They're supposed to do visual checks but as long as you have a friend that's an inspector, your good. Even the obd2 cars are easy to trick, test is done through the old test plug. So, if you have a good tune with the emissions equipment wrote out, your good.

This is something the vw community has done over and over again. Older fuel injection systems running newer engines and vice versa. In my opinion, a 4 cylinder engine is a 4 cylinder engine, many times the timing and the maps are fine if the power rating for the setups are within reason. We have found some issues putting a multiport engine with an ecu meant for single port, 16 valve on an 8 valve fuel injection. but there are simple tricks to fool the ecu. Bigger injectors or a larger MAF housing, ect. There are companies that have created an entire industry for making custom tunes for these swaps. for example, a 16 valve turbo running fuel injection from a NA 8 valve with a chip. As long as you can get a distributor to mount up, and the injectors mount, the rest should be straight forward. My vw quantum is running its original 1982 CIS-L injection with the engine block from a 94 jetta, cylinder head from one side of a 91 Audi V8, Saab distributor, Mercedes injectors, and WUR from a porche. So anything is possible if your willing to put some time into tuning.

That's not a $1700 car. For $500 I got an ea82t with half the mileage and aside from a transmisson issue, in all around better shape. I personally wouldn't spend more then $5-600 for that car.

Do whatever you have to do to get the engine up to operating temp. You won't be able to properly tune it until you have it warmed up.

Have you let the car warm up before you try and tune it? If not, gently turn the mixture screw all the way in (do not tighten it once you feel it bottom out), then back out 1 and a half turns. Turn the car on and get it warmed up to operating temp, and the choke is is off. You may need to hold the throttle open to get it to warm up. After the car is warm, and you can verify that the choke is off, then do your tune.

It took some driving for mine to "burp", then it took another quart.

Gotcha. I have been hearing the throwout bearing rubbing against the pressure plate when my foot is off the clutch. I'll rig up a spring to pull it back....

Can the clutch cable be adjusted correctly without the hill holder mechanism? I also never put the holder in when I did the trans swap... I can't seem to adjust the cable to bring the friction point low on the clutch, it engages super high.

Are you using a bleeding pump or is your buddy/wife pumping the brakes while your in the wheel well releasing the fluid?

It's a wierd place for a parking lights switch. At a quick glance I assumed it was a hazard switch like many other vehicles....

Haha.... Same thing happened to me, I started searching for electrical shorts till i noticed the park lights switch on the column.

The one that's under the intake in the top of the block, supposed to go to the intake under the thermostat?

Get yourself another tranny, and once you've swapped it out, pull the old one apart. It's much less stressful to do a job like that when you don't need it done. See if you can fix it, if you can, you have a spare!

If you read through this, they discribe how to do it with parts bought at lowes. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/124117-diagnosis-my-engine-is-a-paradox-in-the-space-time-continuum/

http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/e1000.htm

In concept they all work the same, so I can't see why this inexpensive one wouldn't work for all cars that use idle up valves. You just have to make sure to mount it to the engine. Once the the cts tells the ecu that the car is warmed up, it won't send 12v to the valve. It will use engine heat to operate the valve so it needs to be mounted directly to the engine.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141806-aaviacv-questions/

This is still working great for me. These valves are pretty easy to get new and rather inexpensive. The Bosch units are pricy but python makes a cheap one, just make sure your searching for an older air cooled vw. They jack the price when it's listed for a BMW, Saab, ect. Even though they're all the same parts. http://www.partstrain.com/store/details/Volkswagen/Super_Beetle/Python/Auxiliary_Air_Valve/1975/PYT342902.html?source=productads

Try bypassing the valve with a hose, connect the hose from the upper intake to the lower intake without the valve in between. Use a set of vice grips on the hose to act like the valve. Open when cold, closed when warm.

I think a big part of a great sounding car/engine comes from an open filter intake. Unclip your filter box and leave the top loose while you drive around and you'll see what I'm talking about. I'll usually drill holes in the bottom/fender side of my air box to add that sound, and it can help with performance if its not sucking in hot engine compartment air.

That's the first plan of action. A flush, then to pour CLR into it, let it sit, then another flush. I'm assuming that if the HC is clogged that the radiator isn't far off so replacing that is gonna be next on the list.