sifu

yes, this is a good call. It most definitely requires a washer. But from my experience with and without one on the forester struts, it's more than just a minor rattle over a pothole...it sounds like the car will fall apart.

For anyone interested in using HDPE, I've only seen that any suitable plastic block over 1" thick would cost $60+. That is lame. Consider this instead- http://www.instructables.com/id/Making-Blocks-out-of-HDPE-milk-jugs/ Then read the remainder of this post and a few other posts,like this one below: http://www.dirtyimpreza.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23759 and GRRRRRRR! DO DER DUH DAGGON' RESEARCHIN' N READIN' *hic* ON UR OWN! haha really, just kidding. Enjoy.

very cool build. Looks great. Yes- I get the same rattle when I go over bumps. I figured the struts I swapped were either just old (especially that cushion that goes on it), OR the forester strut is bottoming out. Either way, I'll be putting new outback struts in. I'll let you know how that works on noise. What exactly did you bang in to reduce rubbing on turns? I didn't hammer because I didn't want to damage anything..

blow me. I read better than you. you are right- I don't need to mold, but then again, I don't even need to cut or fabricate depending on how much I'd be willing to spend. The price for the plastic above 1 inch thick costs more than scrap metal. There is no point to that. I tried to be innovative with plastic scraps that costs pennies. Go ahead, get angry, pound a PBR, and write a jet hot criticism that helps no one. cool. cool emoticon----> :cool:

yeah, good call. I guess I can check. I asked a while back and it was $ 10 to cut metal. Not sure if that's for multiple cuts, and I assumed they'd only do straight cuts. Well see. Molding the plastic idea isn't entirely dead either- I can buy a pressure cooker..maybe shred the plastic if need be. Probably not the most efficient way to go about things, but I'm curious. Monsteru, Why not scrap metal for you?

Yeah, I tried to mold some plastic scraps from ebay with poor results. Viscosity wasn't right and no matter how hot the plastic gets, it only becomes gummy, not molten. The answer is that I would need pressure and heat the get the results I'd need. So, because of this, Even the plastic (in sheets) costs more than it's worth. Scrap metal is super cheap, the problem is- who will cut it?

so badass.

Still a work in progress. Right now I'm working on the paint, but I'll be tackling the remainder shortly. I have the plastic and some fresh struts. I've even secured a place to do the required metal work. Still need some metal tubing.

good stuff. This is the post I've been looking for. Whats are the details for the new motor?

This is very cool. Thanks for the offer. I'm in Gilbert, but we'll figure it out, no sweat. I think I can gain access to some metal cutting and punching. From my understanding there are about 7 or so sets of pieces required (although several more are mentioned) for the body lift. Front + Rear subframe spacers transmission cross members longer steering joint Front + Rear differential support spacers Longer steering joint control arm mounting surface Front and rear cross members These have also been mentioned, but infrequently. pitch rod transverse link bushings I'm trying to figure out what is necessary and rank in importance. I realize this is as boring as 7th grade algebra homework, but any input on this would be greatly appreciated.

haha. We shall see. But in response to it being brain-dead easy, 3 things: 1- What seems easy for one with extensive knowledge isn't that way for a novice. You fabricated your first cross member at 4 years old. Me- WTF is a transmission cross member? 2-Contradicting, incomplete information online. Trust me. I got a strut swap, tire swap, lift spacers, light rig, even paint job thanks to usmb and DI, but can't get the body block info. 3-Resources to fabricate. So let's say I get past 1 & 2. Shaping and cutting metal isn't easy with a couple of screw drivers and a hammer. So what can I do about it? 1. Pay someone to help 2. Get help and contribute help on these boards. Neither is working out.

This is a good write up. Now all that the board needs is one on the subframe spacers. That would ring up to be about $600 value.

Thanks for replies. Good stuff. I've decided to mold some scrap pieces of HDPE and will build the blocks from there. If it goes well, I might make an effort to sell HDPE for strut spacers, considering that even thicker boards of HDPE aren't cheap. Speaking of Yup, unfortunately. I'm looking for some help on the subframe blocks, but outside of that, be prepared to be dethroned of the most badass obs title. Mine can make a nice run at it when its finished.

For anyone who has experience with the HDPE spacer tops 1- Is there a limit to how thick I can make HDPE top spacers? I'm considering between 2-3 inches. 2- I want to verify that outback sport and outback legacy front top hats will match. Here is a link to the templates I hope to use- http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/31520-diy-strut-spacer-lift-templates.html Thanks a ton for the help on this one. Chris

right there with you. If anyone can do this for a outback sport, I'd be willing to pay for time.

Yeah, I'd be interested for that price. Even more interested if you gave us a discount on front and back bumpers. Like it was mentioned earlier, 1st gen outbacks and outback sports are very similar. put me on the list for an outback sport.

yeah. Well- I know there are conversions that give an overall dimension of the tire..Here is good place to start http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=102101 I'm not really sure if a 17 has been done here, and I don't know about the overall dimensions of the wheel. I do know that the 215/70 or 75/15 is a pretty common tire, and both will fit with some trimming and some rubbing. I'd imagine the 17s will create the same problems.

why 17s? Do you already have 17 rims, or are moving up?

I too am interested, but as it was mentioned, cost is the biggest consideration for me, and that might turn you off to the idea. Give us an idea on cost. thanks

I'd like to know too.

Hey, do you by chance have a link for those rear cambers? Thinking of popping some on myself. Thanks.

The wheels are set in motion for me to construct this lift. Will detail costs etc as I go!

you know.. my vehicle with same/similar set up does that a bit also. I don't think it's really worrisome for the car, and it kind of looks cool, actually. I've yet to put in a new camber set. Did you shop around a lot for the best price of your new bolts? If so, can you post a link to where you got them?