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SubieTrav

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Posts posted by SubieTrav

  1. getting thru the urethane, without breaking the glass is going to be the hardest part.

     

    There are special tools made for doing this - not too terribly expensive either, but do take a little practice to use effectively.

    Like this: http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/windshield-removing-tool-p-12480.aspx

     

    I have read that a lot of people use something like piano wire to "saw" thru the stuff...has to be threaded thru from one side to the other, then worked around the glass.

     

    Something similar to this: http://www.gtglass.com/urethane-knives-and-blades/auto-glass-tri-wire-starter-kit

     

    When i broke the cargo area side glass on my old GL, I happened to have a parts car on the property - had Auto Glass Specialists come out and do the job for me - $50 out (x2), $50 in

     

     

    The first tool works great as long as the bead of urethane is close enough to the edge of the glass to cut through. Piano wire or guitar wire works, till it gets gummed up with old urethane, keep spraying it with glass cleaner or soapy water to help keep it cutting.  When I was in the glass business we made long knives to cut out areas the cut out tool wouldn't reach. Use about a 18 inch to 2 foot peice of 1/2 inch conduit and flatten one end down enough to hold a stanly knife blade in it. Keep in mind you are working with tempered glas, if you chip the edge just right it will blow up on you. After you have installed the replacement glass, tape it to the car with masking tape to keep it in place till the glue dries. If you do drive, keep the windows closed to the air pressure doesn't blow the window out of the car, I've seen it happen.

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  2. There is no gasket, it is glued in with urethane. To remove the top molding, go on the inside and remove the side panel to get access to the bolts holding the exterior molding. If it is the same as my 92 legacy, the bolts will be 8mm, you will need a deep well socket. I didn't have a deep well socket so I used a regular socket and flat screw driver to twist them off.

  3. Today I finally got around to installing the second sub woofer in my 96 Outback. Here are some pics of the set up. I had to fit them both under the drivers seat since I have the factory 6 disc CD changer under the passenger seat. I plugged the 2 subwoofers together and then plugged them into the stereo. The first pic show them in position as how they will be when the seat is in place. In the second pic since the sticky double sided foam tape wasn't so sticky, I unscrewed the holding bracket and attached both sub woofers to one to hold them in place so they wouldn't move around. The last pic is how they look with the seat all the way forward.

    post-32811-0-91933300-1369452164_thumb.jpg

    post-32811-0-40342100-1369452182_thumb.jpg

    post-32811-0-49074400-1369452195_thumb.jpg

  4. Care to share the link on the dual subwoofers?

     

     

    It looks like they just piggy back the 2 sub woofers together. here is the link from NASIOC. Either plug 2 wire harnesses together or splice the wires to like color coded wires.

     

    http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=694024

     

    I'm going to try this, hopefully it will work. Although I do have the 6 disc cd changet under the passenger seat, so not sure where I'll fit the second sub.

  5. 1991 Loyale 1.8 5mt FWD 110K miles. Just replaced the clutch along with new spring clips, throw out bearing, pilot bearing.  Now can't get the car to go in gear. When you step on the clutch, it doesn't feel like it is catching till almost to the floor. The cable at the fork is adjusted all the way in. When you move the fork by hand it actually moves the clutch pedal up and down. The car will go in gear with the car off, it acts like it wants to start in gear.

     

    Is this a problem with the cable or something else.

  6. I like to detail cars so there are a couple of alternatives to use. One of my favorite cleaning methods for interior cloth seats is to use about a 1/8 cup of Woolite or the generic of it from the dollar store to a gallon of water. Use a terry cloth towel with mostly of the cleaning solution squeezed out of it so the towell is a little wet and gently rub over the seats. Use an extractor like a shop vac or carpet/upholstery cleaner to extract the water out of the seats. I use a Little Green Clean Machine, it works great for extracting the cleaning solution out of seats and carpets. If the stain didn't come out, I repeat the process. This works well for general stains, but there are precautions to take if working with more severe stainging, such as the car I did that was badly stained with lots of coffee and that colored sugar candy stuff that kids like to eat. Stains from coffee, ink and dyes can run and most of the time do. I fill a cheap spray bottle with the cleaning solution and spray just a little right on the stain and extract it straight, no rubbing it around or it will spread, typically I will repeat this several times.

     

    I have found the foaming upholtery cleaner in a can will attract dirt after having been used. You also might consider using a fabric guard to help prevent from future staining.  There are auto detailing forums that can give you more insite to this, but they usually try to sell commercial products that are pricy.

     

    Travis

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