matrixops

I noticed that my check engine light came on today on the way home and the sub was idling roughly. Once home, I checked the led on the ECU and it was flashing a Code 73 which equates to an Ignition Pulse error. I did some quick searching around the forum for others who have experienced a code 73 and didn't find anything. Does anyone have any thoughts on this code? Thanks.

I have searched around a bit on the forums concerning this and found quite a bit of information on TCU codes but nothing specifically related to this one. I own a 2000 OBW with 115K miles. We changed the transmission fluid and filter following suggestions on this forum about 4 weeks ago. Just yesterday, the AT Oil Temp light started flashing consistently while my wife was on her way home from the store. When I drove the car that evening, no light and nothing weird when turning sharply. So, I didn't think much of it. Today, while I was driving it home the light started flashing consistently again. I researched the topic on the forum and found a reference to the "Subaru TCU Secret Handshake". I found the procedures and the AT Oil Temp light flashed out a code 45. I did some searching for this code and came across TSB #166602 which describes what my car does in the winter when driving slowly and the backend begins to slip. Although the harsh AWD engagement has been consistent the entire time we have owned the car (4 years), this is the first time the AT Oil Temp light has came on. Does anyone have any insight into this issue? Thanks in advance for any help. MatrixOps

GD, Thanks for the writeup/pictures. I believe I may have routed my cable incorrectly last time which has led to it breaking in less than 6 months. Luckily, I get a free replacement. I will be following your guide this time around. matrixops

GD, Thanks again, I will be ordering that one right now.

GD, After a quick call to the parts store, they can't seem to find anything in the price range you describe. They have the single pole sendor for $24 and a dual pole one for >$100. Hopefully this is just the wrong part. Update: After a quick call to the dealer, I was able to get the Subaru Part number which is 21203AA021. They indicate that this part, called a Thermo Gauge, would be $65.60 from them. After calling the local parts store (Advance Auto) with this number, they were able to locate the part for $41.94, but they don't have one available anywhere in the country. I'll call a few more places just to see if they have them. Heck, I would be willing to buy a good used one from someone with a broken EA81 engine if they wouldn't mind selling one to me. Thanks again for your help. MO

Well, I'm cruising down the highway the other day going along just fine when I start to notice that the Hatch is "lagging" a bit. At this time the CEL comes on. I continue to my destination without pressing the car too hard. When I return the car to head home the CEL is no longer on, but on the way home the light comes back on and the car starts to behave as earlier in the day. Once I get home, I drop the panel below the steering wheel and watch the LED to see what code is being presented. It is a code 24 which according to the USRM listing for codes is a Temp sensor circuit fault. I did a bit of searching on the forums which basically said to check the connectors on the thermosensor on the intake near the thermostat housing for corrosion. These leads were mildly corroded so I cleaned them up. While I was at it I decided to stick an Ohm meter across the leads to check the resistance. The engine was still warm from the recent driving (not full operating temperature, but warm) and the resistance measured was infinite (open). Now, I am not sure how these sensors operate, but usually they either increase or decrease resistance based on temperature. I have never came across one whith infinite resistance. My question to the board members is this: What kind of reading should I expect from this sensor? Thanks for your help. matrixops

Well, the parts came in and the U-Joints came with grease fittings, even though they didn't specify it when I ordered them. They were part number 1-0027 at advance auto parts. They cost about $8. Since I had the shaft out I replaced both front and rear. I did notice one thing that I didn't care for. The cat is located right underneath the front u-joint which will put a lot of heat into the piece and shorten it's life. A quick test drive with the new joints indicated that the pesky vibration is gone and none to soon as prolonged driving with the vibration would have caused serious problems with other components in the 4WD drive train. GD, thanks for all the tips on ordering parts. Next is replacing the valve cover gaskets (ordered at the same time as the u-joints) to reduce my oil expense and that nice fragance coming from the exhaust pipes burning it off. matrixops

I believe that is correct. I don't know why I thought the vw pattern was 4x120mm. I am planning on doing this to my Hatch after I get the rust repair completed (or I find a better body to swap my drivetrain and interior into....). If you are looking for an offroad style rim with the vw lug pattern, you could probably find sites that carry them for dune buggies and offroad baja beetles. Just some ideas to look at.

I wonder if I may make a suggestion. I noticed about a year ago a member had his hubs re-drilled to 4x120mm. I believe it was a member by the name of subusolo2nut. He has a web site that showed what he did to his 82 GLF and the wheels he put on it. The 4x120mm is the old vw beetle 4 lug pattern. There are plenty of wheels for that pattern. His website which shows some of the work on his car is: http://performancebydesign.netfirms.com/subaru.html Perhaps there are other limiting factors to consider, but you could check it out. matrixops

GD, Thanks a ton!:headbang: That cleared up a lot of the confusion at the parts store. matrixops

So, 4x4 Welder, you are suggesting the 1-0027 Joints I mentioned above? I noticed today that the manual for my hatch has the brat and hatch on the cover. This seems to support your idea of the similarities. Also, can anyone tell me what parts stores are looking for when they ask for the VIN "4" or "5"? I noticed my VIN has a 5 in it. Another interesting note, indicating my excitement or idiocy, but the hatch is actually an 88 rather than an 87. thanks for all of the help so far. matrixops

Thanks GD! You wouldn't happen to have any part numbers or links to stores that carry these? I want to make sure to get the right part the first time. I understand if the stores aren't in this area, but a part number might be usuable at the parts counter. Also, for information's sake, are these joints staked or not? I noticed in a NEAPCO catalog that there are two possibilities for the joints. One is listed for the Brat/GL (2-door) 85-88 w/4WD (1-0027), the other is listed for DL, GL, and RX 85-89 All w/Staked-In U-joints (pn 1-0430). The 1-0027 is an internal snap ring U-joint, while the 1-0430 is staked. Which one is it? I have a GL 2-door with 4WD. I am just a bit confused. thanks. matrixops.

I've been slowly but surely cleaning up and putting back together my 87 EA81 D/R hatch. I noticed the other day that at low speed (creeping into the garage) that there is a knocking sound coming from underneath the car. I thought it might be something caught on the propellor shaft as it spins but didn't see any thing. Having worked on rear wheel and 4 wheel drives a bit I checked the propeller shaft for play. I noticed that the shaft has quite a bit of play at the joint near the transmission. I have read mixed threads on whether or not these u-joints are replaceable without any clear indication. My local parts store can get me the joints, but I am curious as to whether or not anyone has any clear insight on replacing these joints? Any and all help is greatly appreciated. matrixops

That is a great write up on your website. I am very impressed with the fuel economy you have been able to get out of the vehicle. This sort of makes you wonder how "hard" the manufacturers are trying to improve fuel economy on new cars. I may try some of this on my carbed ea81...well atleast the exhaust part. matrixops

My vote is for the new #7, above trim with mountains.

With the first 4 items in your list, my first inclination would be to take a look at the starter. Most parts stores can test them, and there are a few ways to test them in the car. Obviously this would depend on your level of mechanical ability. To verify whether or not the starter motor is good, I usually short the battery connection straight to the starter motor, bypassing the solenoid mounted on the starter. If the starter motor spins, then it probably is good and you need to check the solenoid. This can be a bit trickier as once the solenoid is fully engaged, the starter motor will try to turn. Make sure the car is in neutral when you try any of this. Others might have other procedures. It doesn't sound like the surplus oil could have caused the problem because the car ran once started. matrixops

After purchasing my 87 ea81 Hatchback, I began investigating more closely the damage associated with a mild left rear impact suffered by the vehicle some time in the past. While removing the bent bumber, I noticed that the square tube/support where the bumper mounts was pushed back and up a bit causing a small bend in square tube. I, also, noticed that the area around the rear subframe support mount is rusted pretty heavily and could use replacement. Given this repair work, I am considering replacing the entire driver's side rear support tubing since it runs from about 8-10" in front of the rear subframe mount all they way to the back of the car where the bumber mount is. I am curious if anyone has done this type of repair and could suggest some materials to use in it. I have some pretty good ideas and can weld so any help would be greatly appreciated. Once I get this started I will post pictures of the work. Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions. matrixops.

I've been a member of these forums a little while now. Off and on looking for a second Subaru. Recently, I purchased that second Subaru, an 87 GL Hatchback 4WD D/R. I would like to find other Subaru owners in the KC area to pool resources with and/or schedule trips, etc. If you are in the KC area and would like to do this kind of thing, post a reply. Thanks, matrixops.

I checked the hoses and drain plug. There were no leaks present at those locations. The OB has only 101K on it, so I would think that it is a young radiator to have a leak in it. Especially since the car sees fairly light use. Mainly heading to the grocery store, dropping the kids off at school, and the occasional 2 hour trip to the inlaws. And this is KS so no major climbs. I am planning on going with new, which reminds me. I better order it so I can get it installed this weekend. I'll make sure to use only distilled water and coolant when I refill the system. Thanks everyone for your help. If you want, I'll post the results.

Subiemech, I don't know if it is a crack or not. Please see the description of the leak location above. The only issue is the fact that I can't "down" this vehicle for very long (wife's car). So, other than removing the radiator, inspecting it, repairing if possible or replacing if necessary, then putting it back in the car to test. I don't have a lot of options. I am still trying to find a local radiator shop, to verify whether or not they can fix it. Thanks for the info on the tanks. matrixops

Thanks for the information, I don't have a picture handy. But I can tell you it looks to be leaking where the plastic bottom tank is crimped to the aluminum part of the radiator. Right above the passenger side mounting "pin". I have investigated the fins as much as possible with the radiator installed, and see no evidence of coolant on the bottom edge of the aluminum part of the radiator or damage to the fins on the front or back of the radiator in this area. Perhaps it is just the failure of a weak part due to the recent replacement of other parts in the system. Not a really big deal, just untimely. Wanted to see if anyone else has had this happen after a head gasket replacement. I will probably order a new radiator and install it this weekend. Thanks.

Hello fellow Sub owners! I wonder if some of you may be able to give me your opinion on this. On Nov 1st, I had the head gaskets replaced on my 2000 Legacy OB as part of the Recall. At this time they also replaced my waterpump and associated gaskets. Just this past weekend, Feb 4, I noticed coolant under the passenger side of the engine compartment. A quick investigation indicates that the radiator has developed a leak where the bottom tank is crimped to the aluminum part of the radiator. I, personally, believe that the two are some how related, but don't want to jump to conclusions. I know that there are weaknesses with this type of radiator because of the plastic tanks, but I wonder if something else could have caused this type of leak after a HG and Water pump replacement? Could this be caused by an improperly bled cooling system building too much pressure? Could the HG's have gone out again? Could it just be an age related failure? The coolant reservoir has not overflowed nor has the engine overheated since the repairs. Thanks in advance for any comments, opinions, or insights you may have. matrixops

My local Subaru dealer has had a 92 Legacy Sport Sedan on the lot for about 2 years. It is in pretty good condition, with low miles for it's age....It is the 2.2L w/Turbo, AT, PW....etc. They are asking $4995 for it, but all my research indicates that it is worth between $3000 - $4000. I hate to see the sedan just sit on the lot....but the dealership is unwilling to negotiate. They state that the turbo sport sedan is rare. Is this true? How rare? Am I wrong? Is it actually worth the $5000 asking price? If anyone has any insight/opinion on this, it would be greatly appreciated. MatrixOps

OK, obviously the value of the car is based on the condition of the car. So, what should I be looking for with regards to this car? Are there any specific areas that I should look at closely? Thanks for all the help. matrixops

I will most definitely check it out before talking cash. But it is at a dealership so it might be tough to negotiate with them. The reason I am asking is because it is a two hour drive just to look at it. MatrixOps