noob2soob22
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Posts posted by noob2soob22
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No sunroof.
It does have the roof rack. Any suggestions for tracking it down? At this point i'm contemplating streaming a caulk-line around the roof rack.
So basicly it could be draing from the top, down the body to the floor?
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Okay,
So I ventured out and purchased a 2001 forester with a new trans and rebuilt engine (still slaps
) The guys who rebuilt it arn't exactly subaru mechanics, but anyhow I drove it in the rain and after about ten minutes, I noticed condensation and water on the floorboard. When I got home I found an inch of water in the back seat area floor board/ drivers side. I found no holes or significant rust underneath.I am missing the plastic cover for under the engine, could this be causing the water issue?
Chris W.
Also any know of a brush guard that will fit the 01 forester?
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Is it measuring european or metric units? rather than our "standard" measurements.
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I just changed alts a month ago, And installed a Sunpro voltage gauge, which reads around 14 volts with the car running, while the dash only shows around 8volts. This is unusual and just noticed it when the fuel gauge quit reading.
+--->O----->+-------->0--------\\\
If i understand correctly 12 volts should be supllyed to the fuel gauge, that 13 volts is passed through the gauge and down to the sending unit, the sending unit is also grounded. The gauge will measure resistence in the sending unit, created by the float and distance from the metal band that completes the circuit.
Are you sure there is no power going to the sending unit?
Are you saying that this is nothing more than a ground circuit, composed of a ground passing through the gauge, and down to the sending unit?
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so lately the soobs been acting up a little, lying about how much gas is in the tank the suddenly going HEY IM EMPTY! then yesterday it quit reading all together, so i crwled under the rear bumper and sarted tracing the wiring back, and low and behold, THE DREADED RIGHT RIGHT CORNER!!! duh nuh nuh! and found that someonelse had issues with it because you know how the rear defogger and sending unit share the same wiring harness (yep!) well it had been so corroted they just wired the defogger direct with a crimp, so I pulled out the ol' electrical tester, and found that I'm not getting any power from the Inst. panel down to the sender, I first noticed this at the first wiring harness you encounter when tracing backwards from the tank. Like I said, the dreaded rear panel harness.
So at this point, I'm wondering why I'm not getting any power from the instrument panel.
Also noticed the voltage gauge is reading obserdly low on the dash, but my sunpro gague reads around 14. This just started yesterday with the fuel gauge going out.
Am I not getting ENOUGH power to that area of the Inst. panel?
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:Flame:you could really get down to it, with a trip to radioshack, and a soldering gun.
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That's low. 12.0V is ok temporarily, but it should really be 12.4-12.6. If the battery won't hold higher than 12.0v, then you are putting some strain on the alternator. I would also recommend an alt upgrade if your are installing hungry accessory systems. The stock alt is weak even in top condition.
If you are going to mod your car with a hydrogen generator you need to wire it so that it runs only when the engine is running. If it runs your battery down, then your alt will have to work hard to charge it up, since it is designed to maintain a charge rather than as a battery charger, per se. More importantly, leaving the possibility of the H generator running while the car is not, could cause damage to your better half when she/he starts the car after 6 hours of hydrogen and oxygen production (assuming it's an electrolytic generator).
You should remove that system and bench-design fail-safes into it before installing it back in the vehicle and letting your better half drive it on public roadways.
What would you reccomend ? the alt i jsut installed is a 60 amp. My hydro-gen never draws more than 35 (unsure of the true draw).
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That's low. 12.0V is ok temporarily, but it should really be 12.4-12.6. If the battery won't hold higher than 12.0v, then you are putting some strain on the alternator. I would also recommend an alt upgrade if your are installing hungry accessory systems. The stock alt is weak even in top condition.
If you are going to mod your car with a hydrogen generator you need to wire it so that it runs only when the engine is running. If it runs your battery down, then your alt will have to work hard to charge it up, since it is designed to maintain a charge rather than as a battery charger, per se. More importantly, leaving the possibility of the H generator running while the car is not, could cause damage to your better half when she/he starts the car after 6 hours of hydrogen and oxygen production (assuming it's an electrolytic generator).
You should remove that system and bench-design fail-safes into it before installing it back in the vehicle and letting your better half drive it on public roadways.
Note taken. Last night, I ran the 35amp relay switch to the accesory hot, now she doesnt have to worry about turning it on or off, but I also left the LED toggle, just in case. My new alternator is working great (no warning lights) my volt gauge reads kinda low, but i used a sunpro voltage gauge and it reads around 14 with the car running , alittle over twelve with just the key on, so my dash gauge is inaccurate...no surprise though, my gas gauge is a 1/4 tank off too.
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i have been having a problem with a bad diode in this alternator for some time now i checked for ac volts at the battery and i found i was getting 40 volts ac current . then i started to have problems with over charging if i didn't run with a load on i would get sixteen volts according to the dash gauge. i've also been having problems with some of the dash lights staying on that shouldn't and i have heard theories that it would be caused by the bad diode or it could be caused by bad voltage regulator. most recently my volt meter in the dash is sitting steady on 12 volts at 2000 rpm plus and 10 volts at 800 rpms no load if i turn my fan on it doesn't matter what rpm i am running i get 8 volts. my gauge could be faulty though. if i can find my multi meter i will test to make sure it is right. i doubt it is my battery and i have had no problems starting the car actually i drove it over fifty miles home after it started and had no problems just low voltage and have known alt has been on the verge for a while. i just have been having bad luck lately so haven't been able to fix it. i know it has to do with the alt. or voltage regulator, but i am not sure witch yet
I can say that my warning lights went out as soon as i replaced my bad alt. I too had a bad diode and the other two wernt far behind. I also cant trst my dash gauge, i picked up a voltmeter from Sunpro and it's far more accurate then the dash gauge.
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thanks to everyone who gave some input. New alternator is in, warning lights gone, and no longer flickering! thanks a million guys!
now I need a way to safely run my hho generator.
thinbk a pulse width modulator would do it? if so whats the max amp draw i should use?
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That is a very nice lookin' wagon you have there. I would love to get an ea82 in that flavor here in MI, but they're all long gone.
One year of salt and my wagons begging for underliner!
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EA82/Leone front corner markers.
I agree corner markers seem to be a hot commodity.
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Possible. the flickering has hapened since day one, better half left generator running 6 hours, stoped charging, checked alt and found fried diodes.
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Cool!! Those look really nice and will sound even better. You'll like the speakers in the dash rather than in the door. In the dash the speakers will project the sound toward your ears, instead of toward your knees.
And yeah, the drivers side is easier than the passenger side. I almost busted my glove box out of anger when trying to remove my passneger side speaker once.
-Brian
Funny, I still can't get that D*** passenger speaker!
Driver's is a walk in the park!
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The device you mention will make the alternator work harder. Even if the device draws 20 amps, that is a significant load on the alternator, plus the other things it has to supply power to.
As far as the warning lights go you either didn't read my previous post which explained why they are doing what they are doing or you don't believe it. When you replace the alternator you will see what I mean.
I understand why all the warning lights are illuminated, what concerns me is that they have always flcikered on me, which leads me to 1) there's a short or 2) the lead from alternator to my battery has had a bad connection.
I just want to make sure I don't blow the diodes on my new alt.
I greatly appreciate everyones input!! thanks guys!
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The lights will also come on if the ground wire for the instrument cluster comes loose. You may want to check that.
where might I find this ground on an 83 ea81 wagon?
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A simple resistance check between the battery terminals with the battery out of the car will tell you immediately if the battery or the car is at fualt for the drain. If the see a drain, then check for continuity between the output lug of the alternator, and ground. There shouldn't be ANY reading. Just went through this exact problem with a GM alt that a friend had on his EA81. Brand new from Autozone, and the rectifier diode(s) failed and caused the same gradual battery drain you are describing. A simple check as I mentioned above will tell you immediately. A lot of times these rebuilt alts are cheaply done.
There's no reason to beleive that new battery cables will solve it - even if they were bad it still wouldn't cause the battery to drain, you would just see problems with grounding, and with running the starter. If anything, bad cables would cause it NOT to drain.
GD
I don't think the battery cables would be the culprit in this situation either, I would however consider the lead from the alternator to the positive post of the battery, I had a loose connection and belive it caused my diodes to fry (or at least one of them.)
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1-Yes
2-Too much current.
Usually from aftermarket accessories,but,a short somewhere could do the same.
An intermittent output connection could certainly cause diode damaging current/voltage spikes.
Stock alternator diodes seem to be on the weak side.
I would repair the alt. and poor connection.Very likely all that is necessary.
too much current? could you explain, I have a hydrogen generator installed as mentioned above, but i have a fuse and relay to prevent from overdrwing.
I personally think that the warning lights could be shorting out, but where would I look? It's not just one warning light it's several
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I sure hope that replacement of the alt, along with making sure it has a good connection to the battery solves this. I recently installed a hydrogen gerator, with a 35 amp in line fuse and 35 amp relay.
This wouldn't have caused it would it?
Also like i said with the warning lights, they have always flickered (all of them at once) Should i investigat this? if so where would I start?
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ON SECOND THOUGHT. iF THE LEAD FROM THE ALTERNATOR TO THE BATERY IS LOOSE (BAD CONECTION) THEN THESE WARNING LIGHTS WOULD COME ON?
bECUASE THEY FLICKEERED ON ME SINCE I'VE HAD THE VEHICLE THEN THE CONECTION HAS BEEN QUESTIONABLE THE WHOLE TIME. tHIS GOOD CONNECTION/ BAD CONNECTION OVER AND OVER CAUSED MY DIODES TO FRY?
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ok. so I pulled my alt. and one of three diodes was fried! the other two, not far behind. SO this diode failure is causing my warning lamps to light up. correct? But on the other hand what causes diode failure? These warning lights I mentioned have ALWAYS "flickered" and it's never just one or two, it's all or none and the brightness seems to flicker. So now i'm considering a possible short?
iF A SHORT IS THE CULPRIT, i'M COMPLETEY LOS.
i'VE LOOKED AT BRUMBY'S 83-84 UTILITY VEHICLE WIRING DIAGRAM AND FOUND NO HELP. iS THERE A PARTICULAR WIRE GOUPING THAT'S AFFILIATED WITH TTHESE WARNING LIGHTS? aNY SUGGESTIONS?
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roger that. I'm going to check the voltage on my alternator output.
THANKS A MILLION!
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Is the diode relaceable? Or am I in the market for a new alternator?
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would this cause all the warning lights? i failed to mention that the parking brake warning light also lights up. what i dont understand is that if i hit a good bump, all the warnings go away and my voltage reads around 14-12.
How positive are you that it's the dioide?
My feet are getting soaked!
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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After spending the day shop vacing the water off the floor boards, I plan on the hose idea and seeing if I can pin point where the water is entering from.
But upon further inspection of the underside of the vehicle, someone has already underlined the body with the textured bed liner stuff. It looks as though they filled in some holes real close to the vacinity of the water buildup. I noticed a couple of holes that could be plugged that may be causing the issue ( the holes are located just beyond the mud-flaps so the water is passing right by the flap).
Passenger side is completly dry! It's safe to say that this isn't the first time it's been wet, I noticed some rust on the bolts for the front seat.
ALSO DOES THE REAR SPEED SENSOR WIRING HAVE A HARNESS OR CONNECTOR THAT RUNS UNDER THE CARPET OF THE DRIVER SIDE?
Both rear speed sensors are giving error codes, and I find it odd that they are both bad at the same time.
Thanks everyone!
Chris