kyle234

ive looked around on here and some people and mentioned all the wiring for 1st gen imprezas is already in the car but i havent found anything about the bugeyes. so im wondering if anybody knows if a 2002 impreza 2.5ts is prewired for CC and i just need to track down all the parts. Thanks.

no i found one local for 150. thanks tho. Tex, if its not to much trouble bring anything you still have for the car to wcss im about 90% sure im going. im happy to pay for any parts or laptop. thanks again Thanks dave just what i was looking for

made some good progress in the last week. I cleaned up the wiring under the hood and fixed the boost issue. so now its back to ~16psi had some severe spark blow out had the replace the plugs and got the boost controller hooked up correctly. mechanically it is in pretty good shape whats left seems to be mostly cosmetic. I would like to put on a front mount. if anybody has done it to an EA i would appreciate a link to your build thread or just a quick overview of what is needed. I also need a couple parts off of a hatch. need new struts for the rear gate. and a exterior trim piece. passenger side rear window diagonal piece.

mine was doing the same thing. the bottom half of the radiator gets plugged still allowing decent flow but the radiator isn't cooling as much water. i got some rad flush sloshed it around in the radiator and blew it out with a hose really well.

wether this was targeted at me or others, im not grabbing a pitchfork i just dont want to see jeffs mostly good name get tarnished. ive said want i wanted so im putting out my torch leaving the pitchfork in the barn and going back to my cottage.

i know jeff personally and this does not seem like him. i dont wish to take sides on the matter cause i have not heard both sides and i am not well enough informed of the situation. but i am confident in saying jeff is a knowledgeable and honest guy. he has over 20 years experience at carter subaru and is still on good terms with them. Jeff is the only guy i would trust to work on my car. i worked with jeff for a couple years when i lived in washington and never saw him half rump roast a job, or fabricate problems to get more money from a customer.

id like to bring it up but its quite the trek for me. if i can get the time off work ill make it up there. ill drag along a few more superoos to.

the tranny came from a gc8 wrx. my rear diff is a vlsd 4.11

i recently bought the ultimate rx. after much time and effort fixing the previous owners mistakes the ultimate rx is nearing its former glory. it still needs some tlc, over the last few years its collected a few door dings and a nice dull finish. but the car is running and preforming well. ill be replacing the tranny here is a couple weeks. ill keep everybody updated and post pics when i can. ps. i still need a wrx tranny. id prefer a 3.90 out of a legacy ss.

I disconnected the battery and left the cables touching for about 3 hours. No luck. When I hooked it up again the check engine light was on and it never went off not even for a second when it started. I know there is suppose to be 2 connectors to hook up in order to erase the codes. I've found the green one it's a 2 wire connector next to the computer where is the second connector. I've looked under the dash there is a 1 wire black connector a few white/ clear connectors but they are all already connected. Basically I just need to figure out how to clear the codes.

I've played with it a bit more I have continuity though all connectors and wires. And I have swap temp sensors with a good one. Still getting the same codes. I've tried resetting it by connecting the two connector under the steering column and I've also disconnected the battery for about 20 minutes or so. I don't think it has reset because the check engine light is as soon as I turn the key of and it doesn't turn off.

So I just got a 1987 Subaru rx 5spd full time 4wd. Got it for 500 with a bad clutch. Got a clutch kit for 100. Finished the job last night first I forgot the hook up the dizy wires. When it finally started it had a bad mis. I looked over the vacuum lines and compared to my 86 turbo they are different but it helped a little. Now it runs well but idles really high when cold and to low when hot and it tough to start when warm. I read the codes it lists code 22 and 21 to my under standing it is knock sensor and temp sensor. Not sure where to go from here the Car had no problems before I replaced the clutch. I don't think the vacuum mixup would cause any of this but I need a biter help here.

awesome i need the mess on the passenger side. all those T's and check valves.

all i need is a vaccum diagram. i have chilton but it's useless. i have a 1987 subaru rx. if you have a haynes book or a diagram from some other source could you please scan it and send it to me. thanks

perfect thats exactly what i was looking for thanks. what do you mean by peakyness?

I've read in random threads the frankenmotor can produce 180 to 190 all the threads on it have been complete rebuilds but what needs to be done to produce these numbers. and what will you get out of a "stock" frankenmotor. also what 2.2 heads are recommended. I apologize if there is already a thread on this, if so please point me in the right direction. Thanks!

sorry correction: the 1996 5spd has the 2.2l. they did use a different material in 96 on the 2.5 with much less problems but only in 1996.

buy a 1996 5spd. they used a different head gasket material and they held up better.. P.S. they did make the "outback" till 1996. and you are in the wrong forum. best of luck

im looking into doing a ej22 swap into my 86 gl hatchback turbo. biggest thing for me is mileage and i haven't been able to find any real world reports. my dad is getting 30avg in his 97 gt 5spd so lets hear what you've got and what sort of mileage you've been getting. if you could also please list major mods such as lifts wheel size etc. Thanks

well i pulled the intake inlet (90deg elbow) so i could see the shaft.. its stuck. i think the bearing housing came apart cause if feels like something is catching on it.

just put in a new used turbo looked very clean and dry tight bearing. did awesome for about 200 miles i parked it got back in it still warm and now no boost. the green light doesnt flick on and its slow. like a non turbo ea82. runs fine otherwise. havent torn it down yet once it cools down i will. help!! i dont want to spend any more money!!

Miles is probably right. but if you got it to 8 deg. there is no harm in just leaving if you got the timing right.

pretty sure the A refers to "after" top dead center. you should be before top dead center. when you are looking at tdc (the zero on the flywheel) it goes 25 to the left and 25 degrees to the right. you should be 10 degrees to the right of the tdc mark or the zero. you might want to double check you are btdc. from what you said in your last post it sounds to me like you are set way retarded.

no more than 10 degrees btdc. best between 8 and 10. the tires probably didnt make much of a difference. if you measure the circumference you can find out exactly how far off it is. it wont be ten gallons tho. if its carb'ed the vacuum lines could be messed up that would cause it to be laggy and poor mileage. go to autozone buy a timing light then return it when you are done. it worked for me.