lyter1983

:headbang::headbang: Right on!!! Lookin good!!!

A cheat sheet would be SO appreciated! It's a 98 Legacy L wagon 2.2 AWD This is where I'm at so far...

I know I'm asking a lot here.. This EJ swap ended up requiring a little more knowledge than I thought I would need. Is there a chance I could pay one of you wiring pros for a labeled picture of a finished OBD2 harness? My work starts up next week. As a landscaper, my spring and summer are busy. 7 days a week, sun up to sun down. If I can't get my Brat running within this week, I don't see it happening til the fall. That's gonna leave me driving my bosses truck all summer. Driving that gas guzzler is not going to help my money situation. My goal is to get away from this ish hole. I'm sick of living somewhere that doesn't make me happy. I want to live in Colorado. I plan to move in the fall. If I'm wasting my money in this big truck all year and still trying to get the Brat finished in the fall, I'll be stuck here for another year. I really don't want to be stuck here for another year. I really hope someone understands. I'm offering to pay for someone to just label a picture of a finished harness. I still have to finish my own harness. It's just a lot more details and knowledge required than expected. Thanks.

I found the starter switch pin 83 big red/yellow wire from the ecu. I assume when you say IG. relay, you are referring to the main relay? So this light green wire that goes to the ecu is the 12v switch lead? The yellow/blue goes to ECU, MAF and Pressure control solenoid valves. The yellow/red goes to data link connector, o2 sensors etc engine stuff. Both reds go to fuel pump relay, ECU, OBD2 connector and main f/b sbf. Black is ground. Do I need to use that slow blow fuse then to battery?

Allrighty then. Do I need to splice any of the ignition wires to the Brat ignition? So the EJ knows when I'm turning the key to start it?

Quoting Numbchux: "First off, the relays: You’ll only need 2. The Main/Ignition Relay (Brown) and the Fuel pump relay (Green Connector). You will use the EA starter relay, as it’s already wired in where it’s needed." According to my manual, the brown one is the "main relay" and the green and yellow one is the "starter interlock relay"?? And I'm using the 5spd tranny from the Legacy. I though you only need a TCU for an automatic??

Got a wiring question.. I feel like I'm making progress but also feel stuck.. I've read that I only need 2 relays, fuel pump relay and main relay. And to use the starter relay from the Brat. Do I splice in all the wires from the Legacy starter relay into the Brat starter relay? And same thing on the ignition?

Any chance you could take a measurement of that Nissan drive shaft?

If I shortened the Legacy drive shaft I would either need to make 2 cuts/welds or have one shaft really short. wasn't sure how that would work. And the U-joints are different so I wasn't sure how to use the Brat flange on the Legacy shaft. So I thought it would be easier this way with only one cut/weld.

How are their prices? I have someone who thinks they can use tranny end of Legacy drive shaft, and machine it down to fit into the rear diff end of the Brat drive shaft. Then welding the seam. Does that sound like it would work?

I've asked at least 10 different machine shops. They all said they could lengthen it but none had the equipment or new where to balance it.. Most of them do lathe and milling but they all said you need a different machine to balance. I also tried out of state places that I found online, but none of them would touch it. 2 places said no way and hung up on me before I could say any thing else. Monday I'm going to try the trucking place that is going to fix our sander for work. Got my fingers crossed! :-\

Ok. I have found 15+ people who will cut, lengthen and weld my drive shaft, but no one who will balance it. Any advice?

I'm not sure exactly what I'm looking for specs wise for a fuel pump. Will this work? Airtex Master/Fuel Pump Part Number: E2158 Fitting Size: Outlet -.348 in. Fitting Type: Inlet - filter, outlet - hose connection Gallons Per Hour: 45-55 Pressure Rating: 85-95 psi

I realize that my homework on here is NEVER done.. There's always more to learn. Especially since I'm not a mechanic and don't really have much mechanic background. I have spent well over 100 hours just in the last 3 weeks just on this site, searching, comparing, learning and asking questions to things I can't find. Many sleepless nights... Several days I watched the sun go down while researching and then come back up before I had even left my seat. And not just this site, there are many Subaru forums on the web. Out of all the brake threads I've found, none of them talk about which pads or rotors to use, just the calipers. Just think it would be nice to get a straight answer once and a while. Instead of searching and searching and searching and searching, then finally deciding to ask for help and getting the answer of "keep searching". Once again, Thank you Turbone! I really appreciate it!

Thank you!

Right. But the legacy calipers don't fit and Legacy rotors don't fit. The xt6 calipers don't have an ebrake lever. I'm told that the nissan caliper is almost identical to the xt6 caliper but with the ebrake lever. So I just need to know if I need to buy xt6 rotors or nissan rotors. And same question for the pads.

Plus the rotor surface is very narrow and its got the built in drum for the ebrake(the Legacy backing plates dont fit on the xt6 trailing arms). Just seem like extra weight and less stopping power.. Just not sure if I should get xt6 rotors or nissan rotors? But from what I hear the calipers are almost identical except the ebrake lever. So I assume the xt6 rotors(which are cheaper) would work fine.

The ones I have now are the Legacy rotors. They are too deep, they rub on the backing plate. Will the xt6 rotors work with the nissan calipers? Would I use the nissan pads or subaru pads?

What rotors should I use with the nissan calipers? I have 5 lug xt6 hubs.

I'm doing a 5 lug swap on my 86 Brat. I have the rear hub assemblies(including backing plates) from an xt6. I'm trying to find out what caliper I can use that has an ebrake. I've read about people using the 200sx calipers mixed with the caliper bracket from an ea82t but will that work on the xt6 backing plates?

This link doesn't work any more. Could you repost it?

Cool, so I don't have to touch the evap stuff. What's the difference between the Brat rubber hoses that comes from the tank send and return vs the fuel injected hoses? Can I use the hoses that came from the Legacy tank to lines to connect the new lines to the Brat tank? And.. Neither the Brat nor the Legacy "caliper holders"(for lack of terminology) fit the XT6 back plates, I assume this means I have to find "caliper holders" and buy calipers, pads and rotors for an XT6 as well right? More money I don't have...

I believe the 2 hoses coming from the bottom of the tank are fuel sending and return.(according to my manual) The third line goes to the EVAP system of which I will get a better look at tomorrow when I drop the Brat gas tank. I've compared the Legacy EVAP box and hoses to the 89 Hatch box and hoses and found most of the same components. Different shapes and sizes but I think I get the idea. But from behind the cab, the hoses are all what appear to be decent rubber hoses. Is it just the lines that run from engine compartment to back of cab that I have to change? Do I have to replace any of the EVAP hoses or system? Or are those hoses ok to use? When I install the new fuel pump, should I install it near the tank or in the engine compartment?

I am replacing all the fuel lines straight back to the tank. But in trying to find a 50 psi fuel pump, I have come up with the highest of 17 psi. 50 GPH but only 17 psi. Is there some miss communication here? All of the Ford F150 pumps are only 9-12 psi..