samneric
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Posts posted by samneric
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Ok, so the brackets on my rear cat have snapped off so the rear pipe is now left dangling (much to the very annoying addition of excessive exhaust noise).
I looked up the part on 1stsubaruparts.... $480 - wow.
What do people usually do? New cat? Junkyard cat? have a shop rig up a new longer pipe and remove the cat alltogether? I'm in Louisiana that doesn't have an emissions test so that shouldn't be a problem...
Steve
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:banana:
Dear Steven,
Thank you for placing your order with Chaplins Subaru. Order details are given below:
Order Summary:
Order Reference # 727750
Order Status COMPLETED/SHIPPED
Order Date/Time 2011-07-07 17:08:04
Shipping Method UPS Ground Domestic USA
Shipping Amount $31.99
Order Total $351.85
Order Comment: Your recent order with SubaruGenuineParts.com has shipped.
Your tracking number will be active within 24 hours.
To track this order, please visit http://www.ups.com
Copy and paste into the tracking box: 1z9971644246072028
________________________________________
Ordered Items:
Item Detail Part# Qty Price Total
PT160200 GASKET SEAL KIT
Make: Subaru 10105AA401 1 $210.16 $210.16
GSKT ROCKER COVER RH
Make: Subaru 13270AA082 1 $10.94 $10.94
COVER CP VALVE ROCKER
Make: Subaru 13272AA082 1 $10.94 $10.94
GSKT ROCKER COVER NO 20
Make: Subaru 13293AA051 4 $7.28 $29.12
GASKET WATER PUMP
Make: Subaru 21114AA051 1 $2.90 $2.90
THERMOSTAT
Make: Subaru 21200AA072 1 $13.87 $13.87
THERMOSTAT GASKET
Make: Subaru 21236AA010 1 $2.51 $2.51
RADIATOR HOSE INLET
Make: Subaru 45167AA020 1 $12.81 $12.81
RADIATOR HOSE OUTLET
Make: Subaru 45167AC010 1 $12.81 $12.81
O-RING
Make: Subaru 806919050 1 $2.23 $2.23
AIR PLUG
Make: Subaru 45124AC000 1 $6.20 $6.20
SLNG BELT CVR 2 FR
Make: Subaru 13594AA012 1 $5.37 $5.37
________________________________________
Dealer Detail:
Dealer Name Chaplins Subaru
Email Address sales@subarugenuineparts.com
Dealer Address 15000 SE Eastgate Way
Bellevue
WA - 98007
Dealer Phone# ()-- [Ext: ]
Dealer Fax# --
Dealer Website http://www.subarugenuineparts.com
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Well, my credit card was charged Wed - status is still "Processing".
I guess that means I have at least made it to the next stage
Steve
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Gosh.
At least responses are coming back.
I will wait for feedback from my request on fb.
Steve
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Well, its been nearly 3 weeks since I ordered my Subaru parts...
The timing belt kit came withing 4 days...
These guys at SubaruGenuineParts have definately dropped the ball since I last used them....
Check out their Facebook page for all the questions regarding pending parts orders
https://www.facebook.com/pages/SubaruGenuinePartscom/164392180262789?sk=wall
Steve
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Just an update. Got intake off, everything disconnected and unbolted. Engine is ready to come out.. went with all subaru gaskets. Not a bad job at all. Only real problem were the exhaust bolts. Soaked them, cleaned them, then heated them and still broke two off. Couple of questions...... why does the book say to mark the flexplate? What is the purpose of removing the dogbone? Why set the crank at t.d.c.? Finally, I want the heads cleaned, tested, new cam and stem seals, and surfaced. And oh yeah, a couple of helicoils. What would you guys consider a fair price?
Crank at tdc? isn't that so the pistons are positioned away from the valves so you can take the cams off without worry of valve interference?
Steve
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And even if you do replace the compressor, I would replace the evap valve as well, since it's so cheap
Changing the expansion (evap) valve and dryer is mandatory when changing the compressor.
If you buy the kit you get those pieces and a bottle of A/C flush for cleaning out the components.
Steve
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And the air isn't cold at all when idling, even though the compressor is engaged and the fans are on.
Thanks
Have a look here...
When investigating mine, I did read that this could be a symptom of a compressor that is starting to wear - it doesn't provide enough compression at low rpms. But then, that article does list a few other reasons. If you car has high mileage with the original compressor, it may be time to replace it. I just did mine. Have a look for my recent post on the DIY fix....
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=122792
Steve
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Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
no no no no never not since it has been discovered how bad it is. Thats why i pay someone to do that part.
But getting back to your original statement.....
My buddy had a 3 year old car when his A/C started blowing cold - it was a seal on the compressor. Even nowadays its happens unforch
Good to know about that side of things as well - imho.
Steve
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Ps... never overheated.
Guessing HGs.
Overheating will only occur after those symptoms.....
Have a test done on water to confirm.
Doing the same on my 98 OBW at the mo.
GL
Steve
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i know ... but that vaume pump is damn expensive for how often i would use it.
Funny how far we have come, AC used to be a very troublesome system, now it lasts almost as long as the car.
No, I meant how you were discharging Freon into the atmos!
Maybe there was a miscommunication!
Steve
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I can get hit with a 20,000.00 fine for just dumping it to the air, so It's just easier to do it
Booo Nipper, you're better than that! lol
Steve
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so I am a psychological wreck....... thanks!:-\
Lol - the psych part is the hardest part afterall - the mechanical stuff is easy
Selling the car - You are selling an old car! You don't have to mention the *theories* of what is going on - only the facts - if that. Look at the positives of the car - apart from a few bubbles in the overflow tank the car's great right? It hasn't even over heated yet - that will come in time and only on long journeys. It just happened to me - my 98 OBW ran fine for 6 months around the city but just took it on a road trip and it overheated. At the end of the day, a fresh owner may feel better about investing in a HG job after he has driven it for a while and come to the conclusion that the HGs are the problem.
Fixing the car - That's a poser - there is an area of the "unkown" there. Did he use the right gaskets? did he torque the bolts down right? was the block warped? You do have to realise - even a great, experienced mechanic can mess up.
If it came to tearing the heads off again, I would definately have the block surface checked - it seems that was the only thing that wasn't done the first time.
I'm not the most mechanically knowledgeable when it goes this deep - I'm going to do the HGs on my OBW and am only going to follow the great advice on this board. If it comes to pass that my block is warped - I'm not going to know that but if I get the same symptoms after all the other things have been done, I'm going to suspect that.
Its a tricky dilema, I'll admit - one only made worse by not being able to do the work yourself - its always better peace of mind that way - if you do it wrong yourself its easier to blame yourself
Anyway, good luck with the decision making
Steve
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Firstly - why recharge? If its working properly there is no reason to recharge.
If it isn't blowing cold you need to find out why.
Its not complex to do but you need some tools. If you don't have any tools you will need some gauges at least.
Then depending on how much of an investment in tools you want to make you can buy more.
The existing freon will need to be purged. You can buy a tool to do this for about 500 bucks. Or have an A/C shop recover the freon for a charge.
Then you need to open the system/replacing seals and add oil to the components in liquid form or pressurized in a can after the system is re-sealed.
Then you need to pull a vacuum - you need a vacuum pump - either buy or borrow from autozone.
Then recharge.
Basically, the process is too involved to post a solution on here. You need to buy the Haynes book on Auto A/C and study it till you are comfortable that you know what you are doing.
That is why there arn't too many posts on this subject - you need to understand how A/C systems work before you can safely do any repairs..
I bought the book and most of the tools I mentioned but that was an investment for the future - its expensive!
Steve
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Yup this sounds like a psychological issue rather than mechanical.
I think you know the answer to your questions but as you are slowly admitting to yourself - you don't want to deal with said answer.
At the end of the day - you are going to have to make a decision.
The options you have to choose from in my mind are:
A) Confront the mechanic with the results of a test. Make a deal with him to repair again or whatever.
Sell the carC) Keep driving the car until it starts overheating badly then sell/junk it.
Steve
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HG Parts Shipping Smackdown '11
Results so far:
AutoPartsNerd (ebay) ___ 1
GenuineSubaruParts _____ 0
Steve
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1992 Legacy Auto Wagon 180K
Cured with a simple drain and refill, three times with fresh tranny fluid. I know it's been said a million times to change out the fluid to possibly cure Torque Bind, but I just wanted to ad my two cents. And it was pretty bad TB. Completely gone now.
I went with the cheap, house brand fluid at O'Reilly's. Sold in 1 gal jugs for about $15. Coincidentally, a single "drain" drains about a gallon so that was pretty handy to drain a gallon, add a gallon. The last two 4eat's I messed with, I used a much more expensive brand of fluid. Seems the Board Advice is, that's not necessary.
Man I love these early Legacy wagon's. For the money, I just don't think there is a better car on the road. Good thing they'r so Ugly, else everybody would want one.
Steven Likes this post.
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Actually, I'll prolly just take the securing bolt out again and hit the block with the repeat torch/PB blast on cooldown technique while it is off the car - I've had reasonable success on stubborn bolts with that approach in the past...
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Steve, I found that I had to put a message on their Facebook page after over a week of inactivity on the order to get them to take action on the order. I hope your order moves along more smoothly.
I had used them in the past with no problems, but it seems like they are lagging behind lately. I don't know why...
Matt
Yeah, it was about that last time - I had figured they were ordering my parts from another location and they were waiting for them to come in....
In the meantime, I'll join their facebook page
Steve
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I ended up taking the block with the broken bolt in it and torching it. I was able to get the bolt out then. After that, I ran a tap through the block to clean the threads up. A got a couple replacement tensioner bolts from the local dealership. I think they were $5. It's working fine, though I think I got a faulty belt. It keeps loosening up, so I think it's stretching. I've got to go out and mess with it yet.
OK, cool, thanks for the update.
Was thinking of trying to use my torch on it with it on the car - a tad close qtrs though
Steve
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Hey SchwarzeEwigkt,
Good news on the success! I'm about to attempt myself
Question:
How did you fix that alternator tensioner? When I last tried to take mine off it was real tight and I knew it was going to break so I undid the other bolt instead (it was a ballache to put back on though - had to tension the alt up with the leverage of a big screwdriver until I could get the securing bolt back in).
I wonder what my fallback plan is if it does snap off - I'm going to PB Blast it for several days beforehand just in case
Steve
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Well, everything has been ordered!
I went with GenuineSubaruParts for everything except the timing belt/WP (ebay) - I guess we'll see how long it takes them - social experiment!!!
1stSubaruParts would have to have me ship the parts to my house which isn't as preferable as my work location.
Oh yes - removing valves - where do I get the special tool??? Or is it better to have the machine shops do them? I'm not sure I trust them down here - for price and ability to work on Sube stuff.
Steve
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Alright, got the price down a bit following recommendations
Description Part#___________Qty Unit Price Price '11
Overhaul Gasket Set_________10105AA401______1___$210.16____$210.16_____
Valve Cover Gasket, RH Old__13270AA082______1___$10.94_____$10.94______
Valve Cover Gasket, LH Old__13272AA082______1___$10.94_____$10.94______
Valve Cover Gasket, RH New__13270AA111______1___$10.94_____$10.94______
Valve Cover Gasket, LH New__13272AA111______1___$10.94_____$10.94______
Spark Plug Gasket___________13293AA051______4___$7.28______$29.12______
Water Pump Gasket___________21114AA051______1___$2.90______$2.90_______
Thermostat__________________21200AA072______1___$13.87_____$13.87______
Thermostat Gasket___________21236AA010______1___$2.51______$2.51_______
Radiator Hose, Upper________45167AA020______1___$12.81_____$12.81______
Radiator Hose, Lower________45167AC010______1___$12.81_____$12.81______
Oil Pump O-ring_____________806919050_______1___$2.23______$2.23_______
Timing Belt/Water Pump Kit__GATES TCKWP277A 1___$285.00____$285.00_____
Radiator Air Plug___________45124AC000______1___$6.20______$6.20_______
___________________________________________________________$621.37__
Not bad - parts will dip under $600 when I take out one of the Valve Cover combos
Steve
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You can get a Timing Belt Kit and a new Water Pump as a package from someplace like The Import Experts and save a ton of money.
Will check into that - I got the $225 price from them on just the belt kit so I will look into the water pump combo.
And don't forget new Cam & Crank Seals while you're in there. Use OEM only!
I think they come as part of the Overhaul Gasket Set so should be all set with those - All OEM
Good luck and keep us posted.
Will do! Can't wait to get my hands dirty again actually!
Steve
'98 OBW - $480 For a new cat - really???
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Thanks for the reply folks.... Just to clarify
This is the bracket who's ears have broken off (at the end of part 15)..
I guess I will take it to a shop and have them suggest the fix (either welding on new brackets or simply putting in a new piece that replaces the cat).
Steve