samneric
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Posts posted by samneric
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Nice new rotors and pads
Steve
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Getting the oil filter apart without *creating* a bunch of metal shavings..... I'll leave that up to your imagination.
GD
Tin Snips me thinks
Steve
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If the noise goes away (or just gets quieter) with increased engine temp then it's either valve train noise (on hydro lifter engines which your's is not), piston slap, or an accesory item like a t-belt idler, alternator bearing, AC idler, etc.
GD
Phew, thats somewhat of a relief!!!
So if I change the oil and there is no shavings in there then I am somewhat safe to go ahead and just have the headwork done and stick new gaskets/belt/idlers etc on there.
Steve
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Posted the bootup sequence (irr engine starting!) on YouTube for your oratoray pleasure
See what y'all think - knocking or not - definately has a louder sound at first which goes away after a few seconds...
Steve
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definitely diagnose the current noise and make sure what it is, though you sound confident it's not rod knock? replacing head gaskets on an engine already knocking would be frustrating.
The current noise doesn't seem like a knock - just louder on startup - I will get the video done tomorrow morning when it is cold.
I agree about a loud knock giving me advance notice so I'll prob end up taking my chances with the current block.
Steve
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This is the latest addition to my Subie family
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Right, like GD said there's no question what the issue is, but it may have an underlying cause and I'm curious how much it was driven while overheating by the previous owner.
You don't still have contact with the previous owner do you?
Unforch not. It was sold by a dealer and from all the paperwork he gave me, the car changed hands a number of times before he sold it on ebay - now we know why !!!!
So left with the dilema - do I just do the HG's (presumably at least getting the HG's checked for plumb) or do I fear the worst and go for bearing replacement.
Prob going to take my chances with the HGs - $500 job. Would like a more secure feeling though - which is why I was looking at a JDM block with my resurfaced heads put back on.
What is the first symptom of main bearing failure - knocking? It does make a louder noise for a few seconds when first starting - maybe piston slap???
Maybe I should take a video from cold of it starting with sound...
Just want the best stab at this before putting too much money in a certain direction that may proove wrong.
Steve
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You don't mention any overheating? Blown headgasket Phase I EJ25's usually overheat when the gaskets blow.
I have only been driving it for two weeks and I only drive about 20 miles each way to and from work so maybe it hasn't had chance to overheat yet?
I did drive it back from SC (800 miles???) and it didn't overheat.
As soon as I got back I checked the rad (which was full of clean green coolant) and the overflow bottle. The bottle actually had black oil sitting on the surface of the water
. You could put your finger in and pull it out as if you were dipping it in engine oil. - Still the rad had clean water in it so I just assumed someone had filled the overflow bottle with oil and I took it off and cleaned it (that's why there was no water in it when I first started driving it two weeks ago).Very strange circumstances indeed - the plot thickens
Can you keep the 80K engine on stand-by?
Steve
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figure at least $1500 in parts and machine work.
GD
Wait... Let me say that again...
:eek:Thanks for the info - good advice...
I do want to keep the 2.5 - I really do like the torque and performance. Driving at 35 in fifth is neat.
Luckily, I only paid 2000 for the car so I still should come up less than the 4400 that it is listed for in the blue book.... That's with a new clutch, tranny and engine reseal... oh and new rotors and pads.... and knock sensor... the list goes on
Steve
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Your head gaskets are shot.
GD
Indeed, check out my recent thread on the same issue....
Steve
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Another interesting question about an alternative.....
Can I use the block from a used JDM EJ25?
There seem to be good deals on those and they all have low mileage...
Steve
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i think you would have to have the oil checked out to really know, unless there is metal stuff in it.
OK, just did some reading on another forum - so I am looking for low oil pressure? It was stated that bad bearings can cause low oil pressure - even if they don't make noise.....
Or are you talking about the oil colour and consistency?? In which case what would these symptoms mean?? Thin oil, black oil etc.....
Steve
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Also, These seals are directional so there is a left and right, make sure you get the right one, it will have little arrows on it for the direction of rotation
and usually I also replace the large o-ring as well...OK, I did my reseal job without knowing this and now the new ones leak....
Question is - what is the direction of rotation? I can only assume they mean the car in forward gear and not reverse!!!
Steve
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Try the K&W block sealar, the nano-tech version in the green bottle. Flush the system and apply using clean water.
Thank you! Will hunt it down...
Also... with the comment about this being severe....
I obviously don't know if it has been driven overheated....
If it has I can assume the heads need to be re-surfaced.... Does the block ever need re-surfacing???
I have read about the main bearings getting damaged if the oil wasn't changed on an overheat.... Are there tell tail signs that I will need to split the block and look at them also???!
Kind of exciting but scary at the same time ...
Steve
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yep, sounds pretty severe. how long have you had the car?
I bought it in August but its been off the road while I "sealed" the transmission.
Just got it back on the road now to where I am starting to get used to it.
Last night I changed the knock sensor and exhaust gaskets - drives quiet and doesn't misfire now
I like the power of the engine - very nippy. Car rides very smooth - way better than my Brat.So to drive it until I save the money for the HG job - put the subaru water conditioner in and keep re-filling the water every weekend???
Steve
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Rechecked this morning - still bubbles and the water is going black.
Its the HG's
I get to tear apart the engine now!
Steve
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HA, I doubt it. The WRX made a few of those "Top Ten Most Expensive to Insure" lists a few years ago.
I must have had it while the going was good then - My '02 WRX was about 600 for 6 months back when I bought it in 02.
Steve
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Add $500 to my insurance. Wife is the primary driver as she is older than me, female, and married..
Married to YOU I hope
$500 more per year I hope!!!!
Steve
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The seals are directional...Did you look for the little arrows on them that indicate which seal goes on which side?
Jesus - no....
So next time I do it ....
What do I need to know.
FFS - I asked the "what do I need to do question" already on another thread.
Can I just swap them over now?! That would be nice.
Steve
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Is the radiator full or need some fill?
Doesn't sound good to me though.
How many miles?
210K miles.
Rad may need some fill because the overflow was empty. Will check again on the w/e and do the "Let it run with the cap off till the them opens thing".
This is not a big deal for me - I'm ready to do the HG's anyways.
Will make the car good for another 100K
Steve
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Sweet looking ride!!!
Try not to role it
The road trip reminded me of my trip from New Orleans to SC to buy my OBW - fun huh?!
Steve
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I just bought my '98 OBW and started driving it.
I took the over-flow tank off to clean it but didn't fill it with any water.
Checked it tonight for first time.
There was a bit of water in the bottom (I guess what came out of the rad) and it looked like it was burping.
I added water to the full hot level and when I did that, big bubbles came out of the tube every two seconds or so...
Is this exhaust gas bubbles or just air caught in the rad from the empty bottle?
I was expecting tiny bubbles with foam if it was a hg problem from what I've been reading here..
Hmmm..
Steve
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Subject says it all.
Been driving a few days - went under car today and the front axle seals are leaking.
Was I supposed to lube the seals with a light coating of gear oil??? Didn't do that.:-\
Steve
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Steve,
If you are unaware, the rotors are removed by screwing small bolts into the two unused threaded holes near the center of the rotor. The threaded holes were made for this purpose, whereby the bolts threading in actually push the rotor off the hub. Just be sure that you have the correct size small bolts to thread into the rotor.
I can't remember where they are, but there are small bolts already on the Subaru that can be removed to fit the threaded holes. Maybe, someone on this forum will chime in as to where those bolts are.
OK, thanks for the heads up! I was expecting the rotors to simply "pop-off"
I should have learned my lesson recently when I figured the ball-joints would simply "Drop-out" lol.
I'll keep my eyes open for the mysterious small bolts
Steve
brake caliper question 1998 outback
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
I used the antisieze on the inside of the rotor where it joins onto the hub - trying to make it come off easier next time.... I used a hammer on one of the rotors to separate it
WTH - didn't need it anymore....
On second look, the brake fluid wasn't that bad in color - the hydro clutch was worse (blacker). Took some fluid out to compensate for the new pads but left the fluid as is.
I thighten my lug nuts with an air wrench
Never have problems - let each nut "try" for a few seconds to make sure they are secure.
I actually might take the anti sieze off the slides because the pads are still grinding and they need to move freely in the slides to release. Will see how they play out over the week.
Steve