oobnuker
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Posts posted by oobnuker
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Is the car a 5 Speed or Automatic?
I have a 1990 SPFI Loyale 5 Speed - so I could probably help.
Let me know and I will see what I can do.
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Check this out: http://www.arventerprises.com/subaru
Here's a basic rundown of what I have done to hop up my SPFI:
- Removed Power Steering
- Removed A/C
- Accel SuperStock Coil
- NGK OEM Plugs
- 8mm Accel Wires
- Timing Advanced 24 Degrees
- Run highest Octane Gas (otherwise it pings now with the advance)
- 2" exhaust after second catalytic convertor, right angle out to rocker panel, side exit in front of rear tire - no muffler
- Oil/Air Separator modification to PCV system
- Relocated Air filter to spare tire shelf - replaced airbox with 3" cone filter - custom fabricated MAF adapter plate
- Dual Core Turbo Radiator
- Cut large hole in hood for heat to escape and air for the intake
- 4 Wheel Disc Swap
I think that's it. I can't remember off the top of my head. But I tell you what, this little SPFI with 172K miles on it screams like a MOFO. I drive it 100 miles a day and don't have any major issues with the car. Taking off all of the parasitic accessories, the engine revs to redline with easy - will chirp the tires - will smoke them if I do a 3500 RPM clutch drop (bad!) Easily pulls to 100+ MPH and pulls in every gear now.
I never really had another Subaru to baseline against, but based on where this car was when I got it - it's a HUGE improvement.
- Removed Power Steering
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How big of a job is this? Can it be done in the car? I'm thinking, disconnect the radiator hoses, battery wires, etc. loosen the nuts, and jack her up?
Is there enough vertical clearance to do this? Or do I have to yank the motor or do something else???
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This would REALLY be just for kicks, but what about taking an EA82T manifold and bolting on a pipe where the turbo used to sit. Punch a hole through the hood of the car and just put a friggen smoke stack on the thing! Hahahaha! Complete with little flapper thingy. I'm doing it - I swear I am doing it!
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Can you fit a long screw driver through the grille to work the mechanism maybe?
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I think 34 is Fuel Injection Temperature Sensor, but check that link for sure. If that's what it is, it's a small sensor near the thermostat housing on top of the motor where the upper radiator hose connects. There are two sensors there, one with a single "blade" type connection, and one with a little two-wire pigtail - it's the one with two wires. You can try cleaning all the contacts and see if that helps. If not, best bet is to find one from a junker - the quote I got for a new one was like $112 or something ridiculous like that....
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You don't actually have to push the clutch in the engage or disengage the 4WD - I do it all the time in my Loyale.
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Remove the plastic panel underneath the steering wheel. I think there are 3 or 4 screws that hold it on. You will find a metal box with an LED on it under the dash. That is the ECU or brain. I believe the light will be flashing with any current trouble codes.
If you connect the green connector in the engine bay, that will bring up any stored codes.
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Thanks. I must be a lucky guy then!
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Good point, Skip, thanks!
Will the motor run if it is 180 degrees out of phase? Or am I just getting lucky every time I have to do this - because I have never worried about it. Just turn it to the marks and go.
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My vote is the top one is real - bottom is shrunk.
Also vote top one looks best.
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This is what I do:
Turn the motor by hand until you reach TDC on the flywheel. Observe the general location of #1 on the distributor cap so that you can get the rotor somewhat lined up. Then slide it in - note the rotation of the rotor as you slide the distributor in. It is easy to be a tooth off one way or the other, but not too tough to figure it out.
Once you've got it in, try to set the timing to whatever spec you want (factory?). If you have to turn the distributor a lot in one direction or the other, then most likely you are a tooth off. If you are, pop it out a tiny bit and turn the rotor in the direction you need to go.
It's not that tough, just might take a couple of tries. The engine most likely will not even fire up if you've got it wrong - take this as a positive thing - if it runs, you're probably not far off and can just set the timing. Hope you've got a light...
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I guess it's one of those things that everyone does at some point but might not ever suggest anyone else do it...
:lol: -
I had the same thing happen on my parts car - EA82T. Bolt snapped about 1/4" below the surface of the intake.
The key to the success of this one was to pretend that I didn't want or need the motor...
I ended up using like a 30" prybar - trying to find the meatiest pieces of aluminum to lever against - avoiding any mating surfaces, etc. I beat on it with a 2lb mallet too. Finally started to get movement, and it finally slid out. No damage to anything. The bolt turned out EASILY with vicegrips once the intake was off.
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Here Here!
(First Post
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So, theoretically, why wouldn't a turbo on a carburator work?
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Couple of things with carbbed turbo's. If you push through the carb, then the carb has to be sealed, etc. (throttle shaft, etc.), also the float has to be solid or it may collapse, and so on - things related to pressurizing something that wasn't meant to be pressurized. If you draw through the carb, then you are drawing fuel through the turbo, which could lead to interesting effects and has to be dealt with.
Also, you couldn't really intercool a draw through turbo, because the fuel would fall out of suspension and puddle in the intercooler. I suppose you could intercool a push through setup.
I have also heard of old school racers putting the carb in a pressurized "box" - that way it didn't really need to be sealed. This is all old-school crap.
I had a carbbed, 1980 Turbo Chevy Monte Carlo with the 1st generation Buick Turbo 3.8 V6 - what a crazy setup it was - draw through with a whacky plenum that the carb sits on attached to the turbo... These motors didn't make power until they became EFI...
Bottom line - I don't honestly think there are ANY advantages to running a carbbed turbo setup, and plenty of disadvantages. Tuning the carb to be driveable off boost with the primaries and then having much much larger secondaries for on boost, etc. Also, a relatively large carb CFM-wise while off boost, etc. Becomes a nightmare in my opinion...
It would be quite an accomplishment I guess, but for what? I don't think you would see the same results nearly as easily with a carbbed motor as you would with an EFI one...