JohnVT
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Posts posted by JohnVT
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Replace the timing belt tensioner right away if it wasn't done with the belt change.
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The first time I changed the clutch on my 97 OBW I used the hoist to hold up the back of the engine, and dropped the transmission. the second time I discovered the engine isn't really going anywhere and used the hoist to help pull the transmission back up onto the engine...
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you might want to check what was changed with the timing belt, especially if the tensioner was changed (it should have been!)
ENJOY!
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I would think that the boot provides electrical insulation, not just physical protection. Without the boot you might get grounding (arcing) to the block or valve cover...
grease, and careful, although nearly impossible, twisting and pulling!
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you guys are fast. Took me like 20minutes the first time. Mainly because I didn't know where it was LOL.
Took me less than 20, but a little more than 5. Not counting the time spent here reading how to do it, and that I should ignore the Haynes instructions telling you to remove the intake manifold to get to it
.All in all, very easy.
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The two 90's go on the drivers side of the coil pack, pointing downward. The wire then loops back up to the plastic holder brackets. Usually those wires are for the 2.5l, you don't see that on the 2.2l
right, but I think they are for the newer 2.5l, my 97 OBW has all straight plugs, but they need to bend down under the throttle cable and the right angle wires probably fit better.
John
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not sure if they are interchangeable, but subarugenuineparts.com has one part that fits 95-05 1.8L, 2.0L, 2.2L, and another part for 96-98 2.5L.
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i need a ignition coil of my 97 leagacy ob, is it better to get a used part from a junk yard or need from dedaler? and the wire i hear that the wire in the pack/box are not as good as the ones you can get individually. does anyone have any advice?
The ignition coil I purchased from an aftermarket auto parts store has the same manufacturer and part number as the original that was on the car, and seems to be working fine.
I had problems with aftermarket spark plug wires and spark plugs - use Subaru OEM wires from the dealer (also some online sources, search these fora) and NGK spark plugs.
Good luck.
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Hi -
will check fuel, ignition, compression after the snowstorm tomorrow... (didn't get to do that yet, 2 feet of snow to clean up)
If I have to pull valves, does anyone know a good machine shop in the Burlington, Vermont area? How much to machine heads, valves, replace valves??
can someone point me to a good procedure to check, change valves, and while I'm there, probably the headgaskets...
OR if I decide to have this done, how much to replace valves, what else needs to be done. Has new t-belt, sprockets, water pump, oil seals, ...
What should that cost??
Any experience to share with mechanics in this part of Vermont??
97OBW 2.5 DOHC - EJ25
thanks
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ok,
how do I check the compression with no start?
I have a compression guage, but I think it needs to be running?
what do I need?
I thought it was turning ok, so changed everything ($$$$$$$) as I described before, but now still whining when trying to start, and no ignition.
but did sound like a backfire, so now of course, sounds like a bad valve.
so is this a pull it out? guess I'll pull the HG too now...
and the ECU has been complaining about the rear O2 sensor for a while too...
hope that didn't mask something else.
thanks.
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well if your talking about what i think your talking about..
The tabs that are at irregular spaces apart form each other?
Very important. The car wont run without them. They make the signal for the crankshaft position sensor.
Otherwise i am not sure what you mean.
nipper
yep - I guess another break (no pun intended) to go back to the dealer...
(and this one was my fault!!!)
thanks.
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one more question!
what are the 'ears' on the crankshaft sprocket for? how catastrophic is it if one breaks off??
thanks again:mad:
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So, you haven't checked the oil in a few thousand miles? I don't know what it will do to the engine but I suggest checking it much more often than that. Especially after someone has done work on it.
Right - ALWAYS check the oil immediately after an oil change. It's just as likely to have no oil as too much. A friend lost an engine at a 'fast-lube' joint with no oil. Shop blamed it on the auto fill mechanism.
He eventually got something out of them, but it was painful.
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I used a split flange on my 97 OBW on the rear of the cat. The ears from the heat shield are still there and help to hold it on, then with longer bolts and the gasket, it's sealed. Been holding for a few months now...
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thanks -
got everything except the water pump from the dealer, at list. wouldn't do better, but it's here, and I need to finish today.
and these parts aren't available from other sources around here.
how risky is it to leave the original water pump in at 150K? I can get a new one from an aftermarket auto parts store, but don't know the quality...
what is the failure mechanism? Leak coolant (bearings), or worse - tear up the t-belt?
John
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It sounds like its your cat. you have all the symptons. The second o2 sensor is just a check against the first, it has no effect on emissions (interestingly my car just threw a code for the downstream o2 sensor). The stumble, the timing of it all fits.
nipper
my car threw a code for the downstream sensor a few weeks ago... of course, I'm doing the t-belt thing this week instead. will you change just one sensor? both? thanks
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I took the front off today (weather was sunny and 30F!!). The belt and pulleys look new. The belt was changed at 90K, 60K ago.
The top right cam was about 4-5 teeth out of time with everything else. Everything else was lined up. I think the tensioner went out, but it looks like I was very lucky.
SO - I could change the belt, tensioner and tension pulley, and the oil seals (again, there's still some seapage). BUT at 150K miles even though everything still looks new and firm, I guess I shouldn't take a chance of putting it back together with old parts...
My local dealer will sell me parts at LIST for about $700. He doesn't have the water pump in stock...
For the reasons as stated here many times, I could buy from other auto parts stores, but am very wary of that now.
SO I guess I'll get everything but the water pump and put it all back together tomorrow. Fingers crossed, but I think this is lowest risk.
Since it died on a busy street my wife really would prefer that that doesn't happen again!!
So, new exhaust, another new timing belt et al, and it needs at least one O2 sensor... hope it lasts now.
John
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Sheesh it sounds like your wishing James Cooke a good trip as he goes off to the artic
nipper
thanks all! I'll repost once I see the belt and idlers... John
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one other question - if the timing belt is the problem, how do I tell if the interference engine is ok?
It does still turn over, but since I haven't taken the front covers off, I can't tell yet how much it might have slipped.
thanks
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Thanks Skip -
I did change the t-belt at 90K. Used a chain wrench on the crank pulley with the old belt to protect the pulley. I used the engine in gear (5-speed) to tighten the bolt to 125.
I'm not sure which method I'll use this time. The chain wrench scared me a little, thought it would be too easy to mess up the pulley, but it did work. But then, the kamikaze method sounds more dangerous to me.
Of course, it's cold here, and the garage still needs some work to get the car inside... guess I wasn't prepared for a major problem in the winter! Supposed to get above freezing by next weekend though - HEAT WAVE!
SO, I'll patch up some rust holes in my 85 Saab so I can get it inspected Monday so at least I'll get another car on the road soon. (Been putting that off til warmer weather too, since I missed my chance in the fall...)
Gee I need a new car..................
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Don't forget that it's possible that one of the belt driven accessories (alternator, PS pump, AC compressor) has siezed up.
Or it could be timing belt idler pulley(s)!
Nathan
the accessories are turning. so, still points to the timing belt pulleys... or water pump. darn...
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Maybe the timing belt skipped a tooth or 5 But then that interference engine might be damaged, because i think it is interfernce engine=bent valves :-\
so is it possible it only skipped a few teeth, then enough to not start, but still not enough for valves/pistons to clash?? sounds like I'll have to tear the front off the engine tomorrow, despite the temperature.
thanks
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can you get a split boot that fits this axle? clean it good, pack it with good molly grease, and use a split boot until the boot fails and/or the CV fails for good...
and fwiw, I have aftermarket axles now for 15-20K. still seem fine.
97 2.5 queston
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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which 2.2 is best to get for a 97 OBW? what years should I look for? what else should I look for??
what will need to change/adapt to replace a 2.5?
thanks.