JohnVT
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Posts posted by JohnVT
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I don't know why, but we've changed the clutch twice already on our 97 OBW, at 135K. Of course, using the clutch to hold on hills shortens the life.
It's my father-in-law's car, so he drives it, and my wife drives it mostly, but I don't think they're especially rough on a clutch. One thing, since I usually drive an old Saab, I find myself slipping the clutch when I drive the Soob. It's just a different (softer?) feel than I'm used to...
One thing I will do next time is machine (or replace) the flywheel.
Is there a tougher (longer lasting) clutch available?
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didnt you have to weld to put the new exhast on??? i had to weld mine on.. i got a ricer exhast muffler on the back but it was too loud so i put a 3' long glasspack underneath on top of it and the stcok resonator deal. it is quiet now.. but looks cool
now it hangs opposite of yours.. too low. i would just heat the metal up with a oxy torch and rebend it. thats what i will do. cheers
no, don't have the welding equipment. Just replacing the original exhaust with new OEM parts, no performance ambitions!
This was Walker exhaust parts, agreed with the catalog (and what I see on Napaonline), but either the parts this parts dealer had in stock were formed incorrectly, or I'm doing something else wrong. Another parts dealer has Bosal, costs a little more, but haven't gone there yet.
I'll probably go to the Subaru dealer next week (surprisingly price isn't much different, just no muffler warranty) to see what he has. Should just bolt in and fit.
Meanwhile, running the old (original) pipe and muffler with patch goo - need inspection by end of the year, and the first snow last night is reminding me it's getting too cold to work on the car!!
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I wish it was snowing here. I love snow, especially since I have an XT6 now.
:banana: Bannanas for the snow! :banana:well, we have 8-10 inches of WET snow, that is very heavy. Trees and power lines down in Vermont and surrounding area. And these 'experienced' winter drivers are sliding off the roads all over the place!
I just need to move some trees, and snow, off the driveway to get out. And maybe put snow tires (studded Hakk1s) on the 97 OBW, about a MONTH earlier than I'd like. Even waited until Christmas one year!
You can come get some!!
(Not that I REALLY mind this in season - I grew up in New Orleans, not missing that weather much right now!!)
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What's that tool cost?
I'm not sure, my father-in-law bought it a while ago. Probably at Sears. We used it for the crankshaft pulley. They also have strap wrenches, which may be better for the cam sprockets. These have a rubber/nylon strap which is probably easier on the sprockets than a steel chain and teeth on the other wrench!
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ok - guess it's been a while. I think we ended up putting the old belt back on to help get the cam bolts loose. TAPPING on the ratchet handle with a hammer can help get the bolt to loosen. Then put the old belt back to tighten the cam bolts. Perhaps a chain wrench, carefully with an old belt to protect the cam sprockets, would work. But that might be risky with those sprockets... There is a flat on each cam shaft, but that's under the valve covers, which you could use a wrench on.
sorry I'm not more certain about how we did it. surprised no one else has answered with a more recent experience.
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The Haynes method works well. The left cam sprockets will try to move, follow the Haynes writeup. Move the sprockets back to the marks carefully, and check carefully once you have the belt on. Use the marks and/or count teeth; the drawings in the Haynes book have the tooth count. It's easier if you mark the sprockets with light colored (reflective) paint, since the marks can be hard to see, especially if you don't have good light. The side marks on the lower cam sprockets are hard to see and line up; paint marks make it easier.
If you do happen to move the cams far enough to hit the pistons, you can move the crankshaft off TDC, and then move the camshafts back. Don't force anything. Just line everything back up when you put the belt back on.
Following Haynes carefully will work. Good luck.
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ok - the interim pipe for the 98 does look more like the interim pipe that's on the car, BUT the car was purchased in October 96, so early in the 97 model year. (which of course also means we have the early EJ25)
The catalog says the interim pipe is Walker 54 062 for the 96 and 97, even though the 55 180, which the catalog says is for the 98 looks more like the original.
I'm going back to the parts store tomorrow. Now, after more comparison, maybe the muffler and pipe are manufactured incorrectly?? This is the same part number (Walker 55 179) for several model years, but the one we have is not bent exactly the same, and the hanger on the pipe looks about an inch or more off.
If this doesn't work, guess I'll order from the dealer. At least the price is similar, but dealer's muffler doesn't have lifetime warranty...
Any other advice would be very appreciated!
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I have a spark plug socket with its own flex joint. I can get that in with the extension attached, and it sticks out just far enough to get the ratchet on it. Not sure where my father-in-law found the socket, but it works ok for this.
There's no 'easy' way to change these plugs!!
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I just had a talk with the guy at the parts store. Is it possible that Subaru changed the mid-pipe during the model year? the part that his book shows for the 98 OBW looks more like the one that was on my 97...
I don't have the production date on my car, but on other parts it seems I've heard that after 4/97 things were different on the 97 outbacks?
guess I'll go down and look at it later.
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I got under the car tonight - both catalytic converters are still there - I had tried to replace the two pieces behind the cats, a pipe that did have two packs in it and the rear pipe/muffler. The parts that the local auto parts store INSISTS is the correct p/n for the 97 OBW appears to be the correct muffler, BUT the middle pipe appears to be about an inch shorter than the old one, and it only has the one resonator in it, and I CANNOT connect everything and still have it all hanging straight from the hangers. It's also got slightly different bends in it, although the ends appear to be in the right place, just not QUITE long enough.
SO, when it's connected it's banging against the car. I put the old assembly back on, as it fits (and only slightly leaks).
Are there two p/ns for aftermarket OEM muffler parts? Did the 97 exhaust change when the 2.5 engine changed? What am I doing wrong?
thanks
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yes - this switch got me too on the 97 OBW.
On my old Saabs the 'parking light' position on the headlight switch has an unswitched power, so the corner lights stay on when in that position.
But I wouldn't call these "running lights", as at least in most states in the US, it's against the law to run with just the corner lights on. They are intended, as was mentioned above, as markers when the car is parked. Of course, many years ago, "four-way flashers" were added for a similar purpose.
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perhaps that's not the second cat -
what was there before had a pack just beyond the connector flange, and a resonator a little further down the pipe.
It's dark out, or I'd go see that both cats are still there...
or I'm just confused. guess I'll have to go out in the morning to measure, and also to verify that what I removed wasn't the catalytic converter, or that it was.
thanks
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I replaced the exhaust pipe and muffler behind the converter on my 97 obw yesterday, but don't see a lot of adjustment points. The exhaust seems to be riding too high and too far to the left of the car, so it hits the body and axle...
where do I adjust this so it hangs evenly and far enough away from everything?
btw, the pipe I bought only has the resonator in it, and not the (second??) cat that was there before...
thanks
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THANKS!
we got it back together, even though we actually put it together first with the left intake cam 180 degrees out... luckily we were able to recover from that!
then I replaced the exhaust behind the cat. doesn't look like there's much ability to adjust. how can I adjust so the pipe doesn't hit the car?
John
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Hmm, you talk about the "right" side, but those are not under tension when lined up for a timing belt. The left side isw the only one that may "jump out of your hand" as it is under tension. All side definitions given by Subaru, and thusly by me are when viewed from the driver's seat.
sorry, I meant right looking at the ENGINE from the front, not the left side of the car. (backwards, guess I wasn't thinking!!)
So, the left camshafts are under tension, and the lower one jumped out of this hand. can we turn it backwards to get the marks lined up?
thanks for your response.
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Ok - 97 OBW - we fixed the oil pump leak, o-ring, gray rtv, etc. and were putting the timing belt back on. thought we had not moved anything (but didn't have the cam locks we obviously should invest in...)
SO, crank is aligned with mark up (key is down), and all the cam marks were lined up, BUT helper let the lower right cam sprocket turn too far...
HOW do we get this engine all back where it belongs to get the belt back on without taking valve covers, etc. off??
What needs to turn where to get it right, avoid damage, ?
I've been searching the board, but can't find these instructions.
THANKS!
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The knock sensor is bolted to the top of the engine under the intake manifold. Search the forums - there're pictures in here. You can reach it with a long extension just next to the throttle body...
are there problems with Belden wires? I've still got some occassional missing on my 97 OBW with new Beldens, but also THINK I have a loose connector on the #2 wire at the plug, after checking plugs several weeks ago. Parts dealer says they are warranted, so will bring them in for a new set this weekend.
This weekend also includes a new exhaust and re-removing the belts, and timing belt to finally change the oil pump o-ring which I learned about after replacing the main seal, cam seals, and timing belt a while ago but not fixing the oil leak. Should have read the board more carefully before that!!
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oh yah an NO SMOKING WHILE DOING IT !!
3/4 tank of gas, nothing came out when I removed the pipe. Ok, I didn't do it completely blind, but looking at drawings of this tank, it looked like the tube goes into an opening that is actually higher than the tank. Must be.
Now I will be sure to clean this out regularly so it doesn't rust again, but all in all not too hard to change - but the part is expensive!
Wasn't too easy to get to all the clamps, just took some patience (which I'm not good at, but I got through it!)
And I try not to smoke under the car with the fuel tank open!! (ok, I try not to smoke at all)
thanks to ALL for the advice.
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One thing to consider if you're getting studded tires: The studs will fall out, regardless of how good of tires you get, and the studs are what really helps you maintain control on ice. I've had good luck buying cheap tires and replacing them every 2 or 3 years after about half the studs come out, rather than buying expensive tires and replacing them every 5 or 6 years after all the studs have come out.
do you drive your studs really hard on dry roads a lot?? I've had Hakk1's for 3-4 seasons with only a couple of studs coming out, and last year when I bought cheaper snows at Sam's Club, and was not happy when I thought several studs weren't fully inserted, they actually seated completely after using the tires, and again I've only lost a couple of then...
as they say, your mileage may vary!
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I bought a set of Kellys last year from Sam's Club, since they were half the price of Nokians, for my old Saab I only use to get to work. I got them studded, used them last winter in Vermont, and they performed well. Wear looks ok for the first year, handling was ok - but I don't really push it. They did get to run in snow.
Nokians are still the best, and that's what's on my wife's car (studded Hakk 1s)
But these are an inexpensive alternative.
YMMV.
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thanks - I'll let you know when I do it, probably not until the weekend now...
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My 95 Legacy fuel filler pipe rusted in the same manor last year. It really is easy to clean out if you know it is there.
I ordered the fuel filler pipe from one of the online subaru sites. I think it was just under $100. I was afraid that the hose connecting between the pipe and the tank would be in bad condition, but when I actually replaced the pipe, it seemed ok, so you should only need the fuel filler pipe. It took a lot of twisting and hard pulling to get the pipe disconnected from the hose, and then a lot of twisting and pushing to get the hose on the new pipe.
That is the only real hard part about changing the pipe, but if anything bad happens to that hose during the process, it's going to turn into a major project.
Also, I don't think the new fuel filler pipe came with the plastic valve that you'll see in your old one. Make sure you take the old one off and put it in the new pipe. Preferably before you install the new pipe on the car, or else you'll do the job twice like I did!
thanks -
I found one at a dealer in New Hampshire, so my family had a field trip today! just a 3 hour round trip... and a chance to see if the leaves are changing in the mountains. It was about $120 (the pipe, that is!!)
One more question - since I haven't looked closely, does the hose go in the top of the fuel tank, or do I need to empty the tank to do this? I think it's about 3/4 full right now.
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now - the worst part is that I can't get a new one in Vermont, or perhaps anywhere in the US right now. I'm told this part is on NATIONAL BACKORDER!!
I think I read in another thread that somebody patched theirs for a while - guess I'll go look for that and try it.
or maybe find a used one - but my favorite salvage yard is closed on Mondays.
another question - does anybody know the difference between the different versions available? according to one dealer (not close to me), although the one he has costs more, the only difference is the brackets for the shield are in a different place, and I'd have to use a zip-tie to secure the shield.
Has anybody done this - know what these parts look like?
thx
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now - the worst part is that I can't get a new one in Vermont, or perhaps anywhere in the US right now. I'm told this part is on NATIONAL BACKORDER!!
I think I read in another thread that somebody patched theirs for a while - guess I'll go look for that and try it.
or maybe find a used one - but my favorite salvage yard is closed on Mondays.
replace struts 97 OBW
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Ok - I thought I posted this yesterday, but can't find it, so sorry if this is a repeat...
I've seen posts previously about diy replace struts. We were going to have this done on our 97 OBW, but are reconsidering.
I've done a lot to cars over the years, but never this. How hard is it? How dangerous is a spring compressor? Is this a day job?
We have one strut that seems to have moisture and I want to change it before that moisture freezes and get a rougher ride!
thanks for any advice!