JohnVT
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Posts posted by JohnVT
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it's not simply snow or mud caked in the wheels is it?
Thanks Jamie -
not that I've never overlooked that!, but I did also check it this time.
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97 OBW with 130K, has 4 Hakk1 studded snow tires, in LAST season of wear on steel rims. New rear struts.
Hearing what I thought was snow tire noise, but can almost feel a wobble or rumble starting at 30mph. I don't SEE any wobble in any wheel when following the car, or when I turn each wheel, seems to stay same distance from the strut.
Frost heaves and other "imperfections" in winter roads sometimes make it hard to tell car noise from road noise.
What should I look at first. Guess it could be a balance issue. Or worse? Bearings, CV (rear??), u-joints, driveshaft, ...??
thanks for advice.
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thats what i was figuring. They were right that i am fairly low on oil by the end of my 4K miles. this has been typical for most 4cyl cars i have owned. for some reason the v8s seem to eat oil less..?????
With checking oil every other fill up, which would be every other week for me, should i keep it topped off or just keep an eye on it?
You shouldn't let it get more than a quart low. But certainly don't overfill either.
AND be sure to check that you actually have oil when you leave the oil change place (Valvoline, et al). I know somebody who has a new (used) engine after MUCH pain because he left without oil...
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The Haynes manual is stupid.
You don't need to remove the intake manifold. Just disconnect everything from the engine and remove it as a whole unit.
Haynes says to remove the intake manifold to change the knock sensor!! That is REALLY overkill...
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i used armourall before the winter season on all the door seals. Keep in mind if the weather conditions ar right, noting is going to give you a 100% guarentee of getting in the car, any car. What also works is to have a can of windsheild deicer in the house and at work. ive used that to get in a frozen car.
nipper
This time, the problem was that it was in the 40s and RAINING Saturday before it started snowing, and got VERY cold... So the remaining water froze the doors shut. Had a hard time getting in my Saab today too.
On the Sub, deicer, or maybe a hair dryer will defrost the windows to gasket connection. Certainly these gaskets can and will tear... Although I haven't had that problem yet!!
Usually pulling firmly, but not jerking, will start to release, then carefully work around.
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If you are broke adjust it. Don't drive the car until that is done. It might save you for a while.
Not sure you can adjust this hydraulic clutch...
unfortunately I've replaced two clutches on my 97 OBW in 120000 miles. Not sure why, didn't think my father-in-law, my wife, or I were particularly rough on the clutch.
So, yes, it is possible to need a clutch at 70K, though many last longer.
The clutch kit is about $300, and it's not really an easy job (although I've gotten better at it after twice!) So it could be $800 if you need to hire someone to do it. Be sure to have the flywheel turned or replaced while you're there.
good luck!
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Funny you mention this, last November I was in a gas station in Vermont where a guy pulled up and left he engine running while filling up. As soon as he was done he turned around to replace the nozzle and a guy ran up jumped into the open door (which he had left open to jam with the radio) and took off.
The other thing I'm amazed by is the driver's who go into the local 7-11 for a cup of coffee and a newspaper and leave the car out front running (to warm up or whatever) and are genuinely surprised at the fact someone would steal the car.
Not only is it VERY dangerous, as has been mentioned, it is also against the law in most states in the US, including VERMONT. But the last time I said something to a station attendant here, he said he got tired of telling people that. Not sure if police have time to enforce it until somebody gets blown up!!
(and Vermonters will tell you we have NO crime, so you couldn't possibly have seen somebody steal a car...............................)
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there are many posts on this subject...
while you're there change the cam and crankshaft oil seals, and the o-ring and rtv on the oil pump, or several people have suggested changing the oil pump too.
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get the mechanic to do a leak down test on the
cooling system
See if there is a milk colored sustance on the underside of
the oil fill cap.
You may have two situations working here
leaking heater core
and
leaking head gasket
I agree with Skip - is the carpet wet under the dash? Most probably the heater core, or nearby connections, leaking.
If it was one of my older Saabs, I'd almost guarantee the heater core!!
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Good suggestions. Victory will be mine tommorrow.
thanks forum
zzzasy
I also unbolted the clutch hydraulic cylinder to get a better access to the knock sensor bolt, if you have a clutch...
good luck!
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Well, it is slipping, at least some. It's inevitable when starting from standstill, especially pushing/pulling a trailer on a hill. The smell is some clutch material wearing away, so in that sense the smell is normal. This does shorten the life of the clutch, of course.
There are other threads on this forum with suggestions for maximizing the life of the clutch.
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my 97 obw lasted 70k first time, then 40!
not sure what we're doing wrong...
it's my father-in-law's car, and my wife drives it a lot.
Haven't noticed that they are too rough, but something's up.
Next time we turn or replace the flywheel too.
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Leon's in Keene NH on Rt 12 south. He's real good, he's pretty much the subaru specialist for the area.
-Chris
Junction Auto Center in New Haven VT specializes in Subaru. Haven't heard anything bad about them, but I haven't used them...
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I didn't hear them list new timing belt, just new seals, new clutch and head gasket work. The car has 70,000 miles. Is all of that really necessary? I don't want to neglect work that is strongly recommended, but can't shell out $2300
70K should be early for the timing belt and the clutch, BUT my clutch went out at about 70K on my 97 OBW.
And if you've got the engine torn down, replace the crank front and rear seal, cam seals, oil pump o-ring (on the crank shaft also), sealant on the back of the oil pump, and the timing belt.
Some also replace the oil pump and water pump while the timing belt is off!!
oh - and maybe the belt tensioner.
None of that should add much to the labor cost, only parts. And the labor would be the same later to replace any or all of that...
If you're replacing the clutch, have the flywheel machined, or replaced too.
I don't deal with service shops, so I don't know how much all that would cost.
(I'm stupid enough to try all that myself
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I too just like the way they look...
but I also use them for fog and other times when the roadway or markings on the roadway close to the front of the car are hard to see - usually in rain or snow.
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i have a 97 and 98 OBS (Outback Sport) and really dig the car. picked it up for my wife (i drive all older subaru's) and love it. they both have the 2.2 liter motor, so it's available at least up until 98 i suppose.
The OBS is an Impreza, isn't it?
I like the manual tranny best, but some have experienced clutch problems, and others say they last 100k or more...
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not sure if my wife or I do anything especially wrong with this clutch, although I feel it does slip on me at times, maybe because I'm used to the stiffer clutch on the old Saab I usually drive, but the first clutch on our 97 OBW lasted about 70K miles, then only about 40K. This one has about 25K on it, and I haven't noticed anything yet, but the flywheel will get resurfaced or replaced next time...
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The rear is adjusted at the inboard side of the support rods for toe only.
thanks.
does anybody know where to get fully assembled (springs, mounting bracket) struts for a 97 obw? Since I just put Sensa-tracs on the rear, Monroe would be preferred...
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I just did this, it was not fun. I ended up putting the socket in, then the extension, then the ratchet. Still took probibly 45 minutes. I also had to remove the battery.
It's easier to reach if you remove the battery and the air intake on the other side... (at least it's there on the outback)
I have a spark plug socket with a flex joint built on to it that my father-in-law found somewhere. That, and the extension can slide around the corner (with a little patience), and then the ratchet fits on the end with almost no clearance. It has gotten a little easier with practice!!
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Hi
we replaced the rear struts today. Not a bad job, even if it did take all day. We bought Sensa-tracs, hope they work out ok, and a good spring compressor.
We did see some peeling of the protective coating on the springs (rear), and used a steel brush and some automotive primer to cover the spots - especially since it's about to be winter in Vermont...
so,
1. can someone tell me the VINs covered by the spring rust recall?
2. does anyone know where to buy the entire strut/spring/etc. ASSEMBLED for this car?
3. I thought I read that I should make marks and be careful on reassembly so I don't mess up alignment (on rear). Are there any adjustments on the rear struts? I didn't see any.
It does seem to handle better, since, as I suspected, the left rear strut had leaked, and had no damping resistance at all.
thanks!
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also could try a dealer. local dealer here claimed (this was 5-6 years ago) that cars are shipped with steel wheels, but sold with alloys, so he had a good deal on steel rims, as well as a deal with snow tires already mounted...
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on my 97OBW, the engine seemed ok sitting where it was, so I used the motor hoist to hold the tranny up from the top. I had to get underneath to unbolt, and line up and bolt back on, but lots easier with the hoist helping. Seemed to work ok, and MUCH faster than removing the engine... YMMV
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my 97 is hydraulic, so I'm sure the 96 is too.
the hydraulic clutch cylinder is on top of the engine just under the throttle body. Remove the air intake assembly to see it to make sure it's moving.
How old is the clutch? What's the mileage on it? You probably need a clutch; in my experience the Subaru clutch doesn't last too long - <100K.
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How tough are CV joints?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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How strong are CV joints? On our 97 OBW, with 134K miles, I discovered today the rumble noise is the front left wheel - the outer boot is gone, and the CV is dirty... I know not good news.
It's been making noise for a while - ok a long time. I looked for a cause, but at first had blamed it on the studded snow tires.
Now at low speeds, the steering wants to wobble.
So I plan to change it, but it's cold and work is busy. I assume this is a failure that could be catastrophic at any time?? or will it fall apart? How dangerous is it to drive?
I've read lots of opinions on this board, and plan to change the front axle next week. Or should I take a day off quickly? It might get above freezing later this week (and we're north of all the snow that was in New England today).
I know this isn't smart, but how much more damage can I do if I drive it more?