O.C.D.
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Posts posted by O.C.D.
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I did replace both VR and Alt at the same time. Haven't had any problems since then
Source for the VR and ALT please.
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Alright, complete originality points for that paint job. You have a "Hot Ones" Brat pedal car, lol. That is great!!!
Explain your oil comment. You literally put oil on your cars?
edit: 22 second clip and that many cars?! Busy road you live on.
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NOS clutch and a NOS pressure plate as well. Amazingly small - I still can't get it out of my head, lol. But 67 HP is not exactly a clutch burner.
All torqued and threadlocked up. Didn't have a clutch tool so I had to improvise with sockets and vision. Hope I am close enough.
SO, other than the cleaning of the carb and mounting it back on, I am finished with the re-seal of the engine. I am quite pleased.
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I was sad cause I took some of the Subaru blue off of the valve covers when cleaning them. Caked on 33 year-old grime and oil are not easy as many of you know. So, I decided it was time to use some of the VHT paint I had laying around. Since some of the older Subies had black engine accents I thought it would be good.
Did the lithium grease on the cork trick and installed the new valve gaskets and bolt gaskets. It almost looks factory new!
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Alright then I will retorque. Just learning the ropes so to speak. First engine reseal and all.
I am almost complete on the engine. Got another late night under the belt. But who needs sleep?
Both heads cleaned like no other and back on with the new gaskets.
Got the old pilot bearing out as well. Easy as can be. I just grabbed a small grinding stone on the dremel and went at it. Slipped out after the cut.
New pilot hammered in with a socket. Some grease and a new gasket and we are ready for the trans-shaft.
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Ironically I got mine out last night as well, lol.
Used the Dremel as mentioned and had no issues. Squirt some penetrating oil in there first to collect the grindings. Then it popped out. Easy as can be. New pilot and seal in and good to go.
My engine is out of a 1980 GL Brat.
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Sweet, glad I snagged three, lol.
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pics or it didn't happen ,lol.
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Odd, I am in the exact same boat as we speak?!
Never thought of the grease idea. I was gonna use a dremel and weaken the wall and see if I could get it to fold.
Post what you do.
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_Nico driving_
"Vroooom, PShhhh, Vrooooooooooom PSHHHHH,, Vrooooooooooooooooommmmmmmmmmm NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!"
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Dayyyyuuuuuuummmmm!!!!
This is awesome!
Can't wait for more.
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Anyone? Beuller.......
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Hey all, need a response or two on the head gasket question. I here 50/50 on the responses.
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OK Pooparu, what gives? Why the different wheels and tyres?
People open them up and change the wheels to sell as a custom.
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Posting on my phone so I am doing duplicate posts, sorry.
Can you all tell me about the heads and torquing them after she runs again? If I torque them to specs should I really need to re-torque after a few heat cycles/few hundred miles? Subaru torques them at the factory and then they don't get another check, or do they? I am sure the studs are already stretched, right? Any insight would be appreciated.
Also what spark plugs are you all using? Autozone pulled up standard NGKcoppers. What is odd is they have a 20 mm or about 13/16's hex on them?! Can we use anything more modern? I don't car about platinums or anything too fancy.
Thanks.
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I have something like this for pilot bearings:
http://www.amazon.com/Mountain-Pilot-Bearing-Puller/dp/B000X282DM
Without the pilot bearing the input shaft not supported enough, it could be what caused the seal in the trans to leak.
Thankfully I have a new pilot and seal. I too feel this is why it was leaking.
I haven't pulled the trans yet because I been tearing apart the motor. Aside from the bottom end she is getting it all. I have tons more pictures.
Thanks for the link.
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I am toying with the idea of doing this with 17 inch rims. Same offset and stuff as above. It adds just under 2 inches to overall diameter (just under an inch closer to the fenders at any point), and just over an inch to width with a 205/50-17. I think there is enough space that it wouldn't quite hit fenders at any point. It would give a little more flotation to crawl over snow. It would also give just under an inch of extra clearance to get over stuff.
Another size I am considering because I would really like the extra flotation -- a Brat is already so light it can crawl over snow that the bigger 4wd's just sink into -- is 16 inch rims, same offset, but 8 inch instead of 7 with 245/50-16 tires. That size adds almost 2.5 inches to width and a little under 2.5 inches to diameter (just under 1.25 inches closer to the fenders). I would want to do a lot more measuring before I tried to go this far with the stock suspension.
My biggest concern going up in tire size is does a stock Brat 1.6 have enough power to still move the car with the bigger tires?
Looking for input/thoughts/opinions.
"My biggest concern going up in tire size is does a stock Brat 1.6 have enough power to still move the car with the bigger tires?"
Again, there were many reasons I went with the tires and wheels mentioned in my build and above. The 1.6 turns what I put on them but I would never add the extra 10 pounds per wheel and tire to run something that big.
You gotta remember that these are 1970's cars that we want to look modern, lol. Not vice-versa.
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You don't happen to have access to a slide hammer do you? One of those with the right grip end would take that bearing right out.
Hmm, had not thought of that. They have heads that are that small?
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Sorry if some of the pics are really washed out. I have these natural light fluorescents and they are just bright. iPhone can't decide what to do, lol.
So USMB, what do I do about that pilot bearing housing stuck in the crankshaft?
Who has the tolerances for an EA71 and can show me the best way to do it without the special tool?
Based on the picks and that the block was not leaking anywhere, I know it has to be the transmission. Where do I start on that one?
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Once the heads were off the cleaning began. Brake cleaner is the best thing I have found for old dirty metals. Well that and a series of brushes to scrub the dirt and grime off.
So, on the way to a cleaned up block and need to of course do the oil pan gasket. Did the OEM and lithium grease trick, lol Also did a new drain plug and crush washer. PO had no washer and torques the drain bolt to probably 100lbs!!!
Before.
Cleaned up and ready to re-seal.
And new cork gasket and plug. Looks like before but not internally, lol.
Next up is this....
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So I really needed to get to the point - head gaskets. Why? I have been wanting to see if the heads are cracked and or leaking and if the pistons were oiled. So off with the intake manifold and the spider of a carb setup.
Somewhat carboned and built up but really wet heads on the pistons.
I can still see cross-hatching!!!
Old vs. new
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I will need to learn the tolerances asap of course but all valves have almost a 1/16th" of play when not in use?! Any links to valve adjustments?
As I already rebuilt the oil pump last year I am not taking it apart. I wasn't even gong to remove the filter until I found my parts stash - all OEM baby! Any way, the oil pressure switch wasn't bad either but I looked at it and then wondered if the one of my 2011 WRX would fit? Well, I'll be danged if it isn't the same part?! So why not throw it in.
Cleaned up the block before install.
A little pipe thread - yes I know this is not the oil type tape.
And installed.
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Clutch is worn thin and separating.
Pressure plate is caked in oil.
Pilot bearing was non-existent. Notice that the remnants of the pilot bearing are still in there. Any ideas on how to get that out? I did find the seal though. It was laying in the bottom pan with the clutch return springs that were snapped.
So here is the stand and it works perfectly!
I already pulled the motor and I did it by removing the motor mount buts. That was a lesson learned as I now know that it is easier to remove the motor mount supports. So I placed them back home for now and also took another pic to show the oil from the trans,
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Well, I finally got some time to work on the Squirrel! I discovered that late nights are the only time I get to work on her but I am trying.
Pulled the motor to start the reseal. Lots to talk about and I will try and address it all. So far though, tearing apart an EA71 has taken a couple hours once out. I just hope I can get her all back together, lol.
The night we pulled it immediately I went to the rear main as I have been thinking it was leaking this whole time. So off with the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. The clutch was soaked with more oil than a motorcycle clutchpak!! I am betting this is why it shifted like crap. Cleaned up the bell housing..
Pulled rear main of course...
New vs old - old was fine.
New rear main...
Cleaned up the flywheel as well. I don't feel anything other than oil on there. No gouging or burn marks that are to worry about. Going to reuse and roll the dice.
I think my main issue resides in the trans though as there are puddles of fluid sitting there.
This was all done on a late night. My next job was to organize and get ready for the teardown. First order of business was to make a darn stand. I had the engine rigged and I was not liking it. So I used the diagram from the "How to Keep Your Subaru Alive" PDF.
O.C.D.'s 1980 Brat - "The Squirrel"
in Members Rides
Posted · Edited by O.C.D.
Another couple questions for you all.
1. As the 1980 has an external voltage regulator, what is the best replacement part?
2. My Alternator is clicking when I spin it. I do not necessary want to rebuild it (if I can prevent).
I checked Rock Auto but I wanted to see what you all do for these Gen 1 Brats/Wagons, etc...
Cheaper ones or?
Thanks!