[New clutch not working after install.]

YESSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Thanks for confirming Ivan!!!!!

 

Pilot was replaced and the trans slid right into the crankshaft/pilot with little to no effort. 

 

I will check the pivot and just install the new clutch cable I have.

[Need new shocks for gen. 1 wagon]

I was able to buy Monroe 33097 shocks for the rear of my 1979 brat from Sears.com for $14.59 each plus shipping.  http://www.sears.com/monroe-shocks-struts-33097-monro-matic-plus-shock/p-SPM890425114?sLevel=0&redirectType=SKIP_LEVEL

 

I was also able to buy Subaru part# 721032260 front struts for my brat from SubaruParts.com for $118.76 each plus shipping.  The Part number on the old struts from my brat is 621052270, when I entered this at SubaruParts.com it was superseeded by part# 721032260. http://www.subaruparts.com/cart/?pn=621052270

 

Both the shocks and the struts have been installed on the brat and made a huge improvement over the old worn out stuff.

Nice, thanks for adding to this thread!

 

Pics of the front?

[74 VW Super Beetle with Subaru swap]

Wow, cool project!!!  That thing is gonna scoot along nicely.

[Weber tuning questions - please read if you have a Weber!]

I see fuel pumps all over the net for the 1980.  As I have not dug into it I am not sure but they all appear to be external unless I am really wrong?

[New clutch not working after install.]

Can anyone tell me if the fingers (position) is indicative of a clutch disk in backwards?

[1986 3door Coupe]

I got my 89 3dr RX for $450 about 6yrs ago.

After all that time and I dont know how much $, it looks like this.

 

Not to jack the thread, but what is up with your door?  Rest of the car looks smooth but that door?

[O.C.D.'s 1980 Brat - "The Squirrel"]

So I am having a fuel issue with the carb setup.  Got her running and then she dies.  So I thought I would post the same pics in here if anyone is interested.

 

Cap and rotor with wiring to 1 and 3 cylinders.  New plugs by the way.

 

Cap and rotor with wiring to 2 and 4 cylinders.  Also the lead for the choke.

 

Stock PVC and 2 and 4 wires.

 

Fuel in on the Weber - only hose that is left, lol.  No return.

 

Choke wiring.  Tied into the Hitachi vacuum solenoids.  Blue wire from the harness.

 

Passengers
PVC vent - stock.  Also you can see the vacuum cap on the distributor. 
I have the outside port being used for the carb vacuum.  Unless I am
wrong this is advanced.  The other is retard.

 

Again Drivers side PVC - stock and will go to stock airbox.

 

Pic of the one fuel line.  New fuel line I might add.

 

Timing on the cap and rotor set back to middle.  I cannot say if this is stock though?

 

From behind the intake manifold - EGR capped off, as well as the avs

 

So,  let me know what ya think.  It has been made mention of the fuel pump.  That might be my plan so far?

 

Thanks.

Jon

 

 

 

[Weber tuning questions - please read if you have a Weber!]

They are not available to purchase except in junk yard.  If you are good with electronics you could probably build a new one though and just reuse the housing and plug.

Hmmm,  gonna need to look into this....... dang

[Weber tuning questions - please read if you have a Weber!]

Pics as requested.

 

Cap and rotor with wiring to 1 and 3 cylinders.  New plugs by the way.

 

Cap and rotor with wiring to 2 and 4 cylinders.  Also the lead for the choke.

 

Stock PVC and 2 and 4 wires.

 

Fuel in on the Weber - only hose that is left, lol.  No return.

 

Choke wiring.  Tied into the Hitachi vacuum solenoids.  Blue wire from the harness.

 

Passengers PVC vent - stock.  Also you can see the vacuum cap on the distributor.  I have the outside port being used for the carb vacuum.  Unless I am wrong this is advanced.  The other is retard.

 

Again Drivers side PVC - stock and will go to stock airbox.

 

Pic of the one fuel line.  New fuel line I might add.

 

Timing on the cap and rotor set back to middle.  I cannot say if this is stock though?

 

From behind the intake manifold - EGR capped off, as well as the avs

 

So,  let me know what ya think.  It has been made mention of the fuel pump.  That might be my plan so far?

 

Thanks.

Jon

 

 

 

[Weber tuning questions - please read if you have a Weber!]

I had that exact problem Jeszek beat me to  it..  In my case there was a replacing of the fuel pump before 

I figured out it was the FPCU.  I really don't know much of the gen1 stuff so if you have one I would check that after verifying whether you are gettig enough fuel.  I had to jumper a wire so the pump is on all the time with a key. I also know that it is a hazard in case of an accident but it is not a part you can replace.

I'll have to look into that - can't replace?  Explain a bit more please.

[Different seats for 86 Brat]

I have 2002 WRX seats in my 1980 Brat FWIW.  Completely custom and fabbed up mounts though.

[New clutch not working after install.]

Here it is installed.  I hope to you know what I didn't do that.  But I recall making it fit like the one I removed. Am I wrong?

 

[Weber tuning questions - please read if you have a Weber!]

I Bet that it has Fuel Delivery issues,

 

either could be the Fuel inlet is connected to the Fuel Return, or the Float is Stuck; 

 

Assuming that the Fuel Pump is Delivering constant flow.

 

Could you post Photos of your Weber Setup? 

 

So we can figure this out.

 

Kind Regards.

There is only one fuel line in (1980 EA71).

 

What is the best way to test the delivery?  Unplug from carb and turn her over?

[Weber tuning questions - please read if you have a Weber!]

Dang, I have photographed every single thing on this rebuild and have not for this portion.  I will do so tonight.

 

The Hitachi has a harness that runs to two vacuum devices and I took the harness off of that and made a splice that connected to the choke.  That would be a connector with two blue wires.

 

I am also curious about the fuel delivery as well.  So stumped on this one.

 

For what it is worth I have not done anything crazy with the PCV setup.  It is pretty much stock as I am adapting the OEM filter to the Weber carb.

[New clutch not working after install.]

So the Brat is almost road-going and I am dying to get her out.  I am currently only stumped by two things.  One being the carb, which I have asked about in the 80's forum and the other being the clutch.

 

New clutch disc, pilot, throwout, pressure plate and throwout return springs.

 

Everything is back together and there is no clutch engagement at all?  The pedal goes all the way to the floor with nothing?

 

I checked the fork and it is not loose or of the pivot.  The return springs are working as it pulls the bearing back out.  I can even move the fork on my own and there is resistance.

 

So what am I missing?  There is a ton of slack and the adjuster is almost all of the way out.  I do have a new clutch cable but have not put that in yet.

 

What am I missing?

Thanks.

Jon

 

 

[Weber tuning questions - please read if you have a Weber!]

All,

 

This is for a 1980 EA71 Brat.  Shouldn't matter but I wanted to put it out there.  Much more traffic here and a lot of Weber swaps.

 

Scenario:

Re-sealed engine and trans.

Non-Kit Weber 32/36 DGEV swap.

Charcoal system and EGR eliminated.

All vacuums capped off.

Electric choke connected to Hitachi leads - hot with ignition.

 

Completed the rebuild and turned the key; the engine fired.  Engine would idle and then die.  Try to rev it and the engine bogs out and dies.  Hard to restart but will and then dies again.

 

I have adjusted the Idle speed per manual and idle mix as well.  Messed with advancing the timing as well.  The choke is opening and albeit getting hot, seems to be working.

 

 

Called Redline and talked to a real piece of work and was given nothing other than, "you didn't buy the kit so it is not jetted for your car".  I said "Ok".  I spoke of my elevation (6,000 ft in Colorado) and he retorted that the float is not set.  I have also read that I need to adjust the choke?

 

 

I understand if this is an ongoing request as I have read through hundreds of threads.  So I ask of you all for some ideas and or pointers to help get the Brat running again.

 

Thanks.

Jon

 

 

[GRAND TOURING: Journey to Subaru of America’s History Collection, Part 01]

Now that is what I want to see first thing on a Monday morning.  Thank you for sharing this!  Can't wait for more.

[Retro GL-10 TURBO build]

How much did it cost to build this car? 

 

And crickets...........................

 

One must not ask such things.........................., simply bask in the glory.

[subaru brat 1985 restoration]

And to top it off you got a nice looking tow-bar!!!

[Gen 1 brat inner door bezels blue for sale]

Not a bad price for something so rare!!!  About what I paid.

 

GLWS!

[how to leave from a dig...with an STI]

I had to learn in my 2011 WRX.  Found that the sweet spot was around 3500-4200.  Slip it to get going and then dump the clutch.  You really only slip enough to get the car moving.  I will admit, learning to launch a turbo'd AWD WRX was a clutch smoking experience at times.  When you get it right though, damn!!!

 

If you are modding look into the COBB Acces Port (tuning) and get the map that has launch control - pretty cool.

[My 1991 Turbo legacy, and a trip]

I have a gen 4 wagon with a manual (rare!) and love her.  But I still hunt for a '91 turbo all the time.

[89 D/R Ej22 swap]

I was gonna say Outback wheels.  They look great on there.

[Brat jumpseat head rests-$140 shipped]

I can't tell if they are Gen 1 or Gen 2 but they are WAAAAAAAAYYYYY overpriced.  You need to lower them quite a bit as not many will pay that even though they are really nice.

 

Just a heads up.

[1982 Subaru GL Hatch, Turbo, "Quatro San"]

Wow she is a rough one.......

 

Are you gonna do it all "right" so to speak and remove all rust and replace panels etc?