O.C.D.
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Posts posted by O.C.D.
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FWIW I also did the fuel filter and it had about a 1/2" of rusty sediment on the bottom. I also added an inline filter in the engine bay right before the carb inlet. I can see the flow as well as have another fail safe for crap getting into the carb.
Darn, I guess I forgot to mention I checked the float and it was spot on.
Now my only concern is the backfiring, lol. Scary loud!!
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Well, back to my thread, lol.
Turns out the alternator was bad and wasn't giving enough juice. New Battery was almost dead too. So I swapped the new alternator and ignition coil in and charged her up. Started and ran fine!!! She is happy now.
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All,
When I got the Squirrel the fan was hot-wired to the wiper motor. I am assuming that the switch was bad.
That being said I replaced the switch and have her running now. But I cannot find a lead for the switch. The fan has tow wires and those are connected to the harness.
Can someone with a gen 1 please take some pics and explain how their radiator switch is wired. I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks.
Jon
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Nice, looks like Colorado in those pics.
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Cables swapped and she shifts flawlessly! I can't believe it was stretched that far. Who knows. At least she can be driven now.
Did a small burnout last night on accident as I was not used to the clutch working so well, lol.
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Wait, isn't your avatar that same car? Am I missing something?
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Now that will be a cool Wagon when complete. Love the crossover exhaust.
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Congrats on the Boy!!! I have a 6-month old and he is my world. Make sure your's has Subie love, lol.
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Nice vid, that thing looks like it can handle a lot.
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oh, and FYI to anyone doing the WEBER swap. DO NOT USE THE GASKET FOR THE MANIFOLD THAT COMES WITH THE KIT IT WILL LEAK!!!
I had read that before but I didn't heed the advice. Had to take the carb off and redo all my hard work cause it was leaking antifreeze. SO DON"T USE THE WEBER GASKET!
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Got it all figured out last night.
New alternator and ignition coil did the trick. Starts right up and runs great!!!
Got the new clutch cable in and was able to drive her around last night. Wow what a difference from before. The whole car seems more smooth.
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Appreciate the thoughts Briankk but these do mount as I have done. The adapter can only mount this way unles myself and 1,000's of others make a custom adapter. Still though, the manifold is designed as such:
Adapter on the base of the DGEV 32/36:
For Subaru EA applications this is how they mount.
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I have brand new NOS ones and can direct you that way but it is $$$$.
I also have 3 or 4 used ones if you are desperate.
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Thanks. I'll keep you all updated.
I had the accelerator cable problem the other night after rebuilding the carb. Fixed that. But it still idle's really bad and tends to stick at 1500 to 200 sometimes. Other times it just dies. I'm going to clean out the distributor. Looks a bit dirty in there. Might try a new set of points, though they don;t look that bad. Anyone had any luck with the electronic point replacements? I've used them in VW's, but not subarus.
A lot of guys go to the electronics distributors from the (I believe) 1982/3 and up units with great success. I am looking into this as well but have not had luck scoring one. But it is fairly common to swap it out from what I have read on here and searching the Google.
Glad you got the carb figured out. I just swapped a Weber on my 1980 and had a Hitachi laying around.
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No bad at all for the $$$
I still chuckle when I think of offroading one of these. In Colorado we have trails that are SUV capable and then we have 4WD trails. Either I am naive or these must really be good offroad because the 4WD trails would eat these up.
Why do you all love to wheel these? Are they pretty capable with a lift and larger tires? Doesn't that just bog these motors?
Not trying to be a jerk just wanted to know.
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Won't work.
He's got it on right....that;s not the issue.
I think you need a fuel return.....I'll bet the needle can't hold back the pressure of the fuel pushing in. You could add a "T", right before the carb, with a small line coming out to return to tank.....like the latter factory hitachi setups.
Also, the Fuel pump has nothing to do with the Alternator.
the fuel pump relay powers the pump when it has a pulse from the negative side of the coil. That's why it's sometimes shown as "rev sensor" on the wiring diagrahms.....because it senses the engine has "revolutions" when running/sparking so it keeps fuel going. Engine stops, no more spark from disty = fuel pump off.
To be honest, and unless I am completely missing something, there was no return line at all. The only remaining parts were the charcoal setup and that had some vent return lines from the Hitachi but nothing actually returning gas back to the tank?
I am sorry to seem contradictory, but that carb is not on the right way, it needs to be rotated 90 degrees anti-clockwise. An adaptor will be required, no doubt. I see that it fits in that position, but thats the wrong way around for a Weber.
That said, it has nothing to do with the instant problem..
The carb is probably jetted for a 1600cc Ford Cortina. too lean for an 1800cc Soob. Just to check though, make sure the fuel pump still runs after the starter drop out, and disconnect the electric choke and wire it open (temporarily) to be sure it's not strangeling the engine. If, after that, it still stalls, take it to a Weber guru, you might require some fiddle with the jetting.
Or, find a copy of John Pasinni's Weber tuning book, the green one, not the red one.
1600 - EA71
I will try disconnecting the choke entirely and also wired constant on.
Do you have a resource for this "green book"?
The orientation looks fine to me. It's an ea71 so jetting for a 1600 cc should be what's needed.
O.C.D., when you say you are using the stock airbox are you talking about the Subaru one or the Weber one?
Do you have a throttle return spring that hooks to the airbox?
How are you setting your timing?
I have made an adapter plate similar to Idasho's. I want the stock look and the stock PCV routing to be there.
Throttle return will be either mounted to the stock airbox or I will weld up a mount. Haven't made it that far cause it won't run, lol.
Timing is a complete mystery to me and I will not lie. I read and read and read about getting the #1 piston to BTDC and then matching my distributor to that but I cannot seem to figure it out. I look at the markings on the flywheel but I just don't know when it is BTDC. Is it during the compression stroke?
O.C.D. do me a favour and test run the engine without the blue wire from the engine harness attached to anything... Just leave it loose... When I fitted my weber this wire would allow the engine fo fire up and then it would promptly die. This was very frustrating but once I disconnected the blue wire everything just worked and it ran perfectly! Do not ask me why, because I have no idea but it is worth a try.
Are you speaking of the blue wires that I wired the Weber choke into?
Do you think this is more than an ignition-hot wire? Could it be tied to a sensor that might be causing something electrically?
I will remove it form the harness and try.
If there's a Wire that prevents the engine from running, it must be some sort of Fuel cutting circuit, maybe to work like a Fuel Cutting solenoid present on some Carbs; it worth try to run the engine without that wire as Leeroy Suggested.
Also I Agree with all the posters above about the Orientation of the Weber Carb, it Looks Fine for me too.
I was about to suggest to try running the engine with the Fuel Pump Directly connected to 12V + Power source, bypassing the Car's wiring for a while, in order to see if that way the engine Keeps running.
Kind Regards.
When I tried to start her last night I smelled fuel in the carb and I could tell it was new (not from the last time I tried).
I really think I am not getting spark now but I am not sure where to start. The voltage regulator was newer and looked good. Could I have fried my coil while trying all of these starts?
Where does one start in looking for no spark?
Again, she has new plugs, semi-new disty and rotor, semi-new regulator, cleaned up starter.
Thank you all so much for helping me!
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I will report back with my findings and thanks again for the info. I really hope that the cable is the issue and it was stretched. Still seems odd that I get no engagement at all though? Oh well, won't know til I swap cables.
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So that is what they are supposed to look like when all prettied up?! Makes mine look like a turd but what can you do. I will save them all for reference photos.
Thanks.
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Ha ha, based on that pic and not reading first, I though you had a huge gash in your hand. That fuel looks like blood!
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It was indeed not connected obviously. Connected it and turned her over and nothing again. I really think I am not getting any spark? Could I have fried my ignition coil not having that connected? Either way I have the new coil and alternator and will just swap them.
I am so pissed that this thing wont start?! All of this work and now it comes down to electrical BS, again.
When I did try and start her last night I was definitely getting fuel as the carb was smelling of raw fuel.
Gotta be the coil or alternator?
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I used to live in WI and I do not miss them Skeeters!!! I remember having to run to our house when we were kids, lol. But, I would go back in a heartbeat. Absolutely awesome place to live, visit and vacation. Thanks for sharing.
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If I am that stupid then I really feel sorry for myself. I could have sworn I connected that. Will check in a bit, lol.
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Thanks for the insights in the fuel issues.
After
much research again about the fuel issues it appears that I was not
aware of a "safety precaution" that was in place for these old Subies.
The Ignition switch fires the fuel pump when the key is turned on to
start the engine. Once the starter is kicked off and the key returns to
the run or on position the alternator takes over the electricity needs
for the pump. Seeing as how my alternator has been clicking and it is
original I sprung for a remanufactured alternator and a new Accell Super
Stack Coil. My coil was original as well. The voltage regulator was
replaced before I got the Squirrel. So hopefully that should help with
the issue. I also have a new fuel filter that will be going on.I will get this to work!
New coil:
Any further insights into the installation I have posted pics for above?
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After much research again about the fuel issues it appears that I was not aware of a "safety precaution" that was in place for these old Subies. The Ignition switch fires the fuel pump when the key is turned on to start the engine. Once the starter is kicked off and the key returns to the run or on position the alternator takes over the electricity needs for the pump. Seeing as how my alternator has been clicking and it is original I sprung for a remanufactured alternator and a new Accell Super Stack Coil. My coil was original as well. The voltage regulator was replaced before I got the Squirrel. So hopefully that should help with the issue. I also have a new fuel filter that will be going on.
I will get this to work!
New coil:
Also, what is this supposed to be connected to?
O.C.D.'s 1980 Brat - "The Squirrel"
in Members Rides
Posted
And a quick video.
Up for sale soon!!!