Ibreakstuff
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Posts posted by Ibreakstuff
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Beautiful car, welcome!
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I *think* the 1990-early 94 FWD trans is different. If you found a late 94 or 95 FWD impreza transmission it *might*. Easier way to convert awd to fwd is a spool and blocking plate.
Like these: (cheaper ones can be found/fabricated if you look hard enough)
http://www.bremarauto.com/products/subaru-2wd-conversion-kit/
http://www.subarugears.com/Products.html -
The problem with ALL ea motors is the cooling system....which cools the drivers side block first then that warm coolant has some go out the drivers head into crossover, and some over through the block passage in the top over to the other block half.......then the warm water has to go DOWN into that side.....then up into the passenger head then up and out to crossover and on to rad. So the water has to go up and down in the block.......prone to bubbles and hot spots......and to make it worse.....the Turbo is fed water from the passenger side head....the hottest water in the whole system.
EJ motors.....and I believe the FA/FB motors too.....the water goes directly from the pump into parallel ports out to the bottom side of each block, though the heads and back into the top side of the blocks and out to rad.....
I concur, some of the flow can actually bypass the lower part of both heads too (probably promotes cavitation). Shine a light in that center block port (where the short block splits) and you can follow light all the way to the crossover port.. There isn't much to direct the flow down in the heads.
Do you think they restricted the upper coolant ports with the HG to aid the flow to the lower area of the heads? There is a substantial area blocked in those top ports by the HG.
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NOt sure about the availability about an "x" pipe istself, or what you are specifically referring to, but I had an almost exactsame ide with the motorcycle exhaust partsin the above picures - they show a narrow 2 into 1 piece - if I attach thoseback to back ( 1 to 1 ) then it would form a wide/narrow "X".
I was also thinking, similarly to you, that running the exhausts into each other in that way wouldsend likely more or less equally divide the exhaust gasses/pulses/etc into both exhausts, and in the same vaien of course help the scavenging, etc.
The only technicality I fear is that these parts have set angles, and I hope that I can run the pieces fromthe heads into this "X" with no 'angular' mis-match, as well as for running the pipes into the mufflers without same.
I have been in contact with another forum member who has the vital stats and such, and we think the this type of exhaust may be more than adequate, but ideal for a Subaru, and I have a hunch that it might actually be a superior way of doing things, aside from looking WAY cool.
Mismatched angles could/would change the sound too, if it is required to fit physically. As long as the 2 side merge, at least in the first half length of the exhaust, sounds like a solid idea. You could get a very awesome sounding exhaust if done right.
Different angled X pipes can be ordered, just like the typical pre-cut bends and such. The X pipe on a 997 gt3 fits in a very small space, search on google for some image porn.
The ej twin turbo (EJ20H/EJ20R/EJ206/EJ208) sounds amazing. I've always wondered what it would sound like with a individual pipe for each bank.
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They crack in the exhaust port........not just the normal between the valves crack.
ALL of the ones I have seen have cracks.....had 4 heads repaired (welded) and they cracked again within 10k miles.
They will run fine still.......If you keep the water level up.
I just can't understand why one would want to "build up" one of these engines........you can get more power easier from an EJ and the weight diference is less than 100 lbs.........Just doesn't make sense to me.
But that said.....they work showcased in this thread is amazing.....and I salute the efforts.
Hrmm, I think that the exhaust port cracks would also be due to high EGT's, hot spots, and brittle castings. The first 2 we can mitigate, the last is luck of the draw.
Everyone knows what an EJ can do, NA and turbo. But no one has properly built and documented ea82t yet.. Sure its still a 2 valve, 3 main motor, dead engine platform.. it will never do more than 300 hp and not for very long.. But that said it's still a beautiful design. If you don't agree, at least look at how much is in common with the new FA20/FB20/FB25. The new valvetrain has more in common with EA than EJ.
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Another idea would be to use an X pipe for the dual exhaust, it would improve the scavenging and would be super loud.
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Getting the work closer to the drill bit helps too, less run out on an older drill press without the chuck extended.
Edit: Shorter "jobber" length bit would help too
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Here are a few details to think about.
As mentioned previously, the special o-ring at the cam case is to be the Subaru o-ring. During my adventures at PnP and removing cam towers, I am not surprised to find brittle, deformed and crumbling o-rings. Bad idea to use regular o-rings.
'Oil relief tubes' at the cam tower. There are relief valves. The springs get tired. Inspect the springs. Stretch the old ones while you order new 'relief springs' from Subaru. Never use silicone on the cam towers.
I love it when that little o-ring comes out looking like a heart, for love you know.. its what makes a subaru a ticking subaru.
It would make sense also that a failed relief spring would allow HLA's to tick, it would be like taking your finger off a water hose. It would be nice to add a pressure sensor to the HLA galley or cam tower just behind the relief valve. Both are fairly accessible for tapping.
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There are a few different styles of O2 sensor sockets too
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Bent rim or balancing issues could do it, but they would have to be terminally stupid to not see it on a modern balancer.
Steering rack bushing? Tie rod ends? Worn cone washers? Wheel bearing? -
EA82t heads crack badly......all of them......They are not reliable especially when you bump the H.P........but I guess it depends on excactly what you call "dependable"..........Certainly would not hold up to 30+ miles a day of DD duty.
Some seem to crack but never grow into the coolant jacket too, these are the ones I look for. High miles but only hairline bridge cracks, well seasoned with a flat deck. That said, I have 3 cracked heads on the shelf that failed a basic pressure test and probably won't be repairable without an ACDC welder. The turbo side seems to crack them first.
With 1/2" head studs and mls gaskets, I assume the weak link will be the heads for sure 100%. I've been collecting heads on PnP discount days in anticipation.
I think there are things that can be done to mitigate them cracking further too. Not just coolant system upgrades but perhaps water injection, ethanol, and well controlled egts via better fueling and engine management.
Edit: I plan to DD one of my RX's but it won't be very stock.
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I had no idea there are EJ dual range? fill us in a bit more maybe?
thanks!
The EJ dual range was not avail in the USA afaik, but they can be found on ebay from time to time.. usually from Australia or South America.
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MPFI has 2 intake ports, found on XT NA and turbo EA82's. SPFI and carb both both have single intake port.
The difference between SPFI and carb is the compression ratio (pistons) and maybe the cam profile? -
Hahahaha!!! Damn right. Funny enough though, I pulled the dipstick and looked at the gear oil that's in it right now and it's nice goopy and clean. It looks like it was just replaced.
Either way though, yes. As soon as it's in, that's all getting drained and some real expensive (royal purple or the like) is going in there. Thanks Mr. Loyale!
Now, ibreakstuff, I compared the Exedy clutch kit for an 87 4wd GL to an 89 XT6 (beck arnley) and they all have the same specs. 8 7/8" diameter 225mm, 24 spline. Where's the difference?
The difference is the the pressure plate and the step height on the flywheel, the dimension of the clutch disc's are probably the same (not sure). I have read that a XT6 clutch/pressure plate will work even without the flywheel modification but it's easy for a machinist to grind the step to .815 (XT6 spec).
Edit: To explain further, basically the "step" is the surface that the pressure plate is bolted to. If it is lower, it obviously sandwiches the clutch plate tighter.
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If it was me, I would get the flywheel machined to XT6 specs and use a XT6 PP/clutch kit.
Cleaning would allow you to find leaks sooner.-
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DaveT is right, cleaning the egr valve and hoses will do nothing to help the failed solenoid (now an open circuit). You can bypass the solenoid with a resistor, but the preferred method is to find one that isn't junk.
The smog tech may test the egr valve with a mitivac, as part of the visual inspection but the solenoid issue is 100% electrical.
Are you only getting codes 34 and 13? -
I saw this video when I was searching around ;
Yea the guys at outfront motorsports do good work, they have a cool 1/2" head stud torture test video too. I'm considering their closed deck mod for my next ej255/257 block.
Drilling the hollow cam bolts is extremely easy if you have the nerve, just deep enough to release the tension behind the head of the bolt.
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Try 5w40
What oil pressures are you seeing on the gauge during cold startup and at full temp idle? -
I read on another thread that using 10w-30 oil as opposed to 5w-30 will fix it sometimes.
At full running engine temp, there is no difference in viscosity between 5w30 and 10w30. So it would be 0w40 (cold climate) / 5w40 / 10w40 / 15w50 that would help quiet down the HLA's. The increase in viscosity raises the oil pressure some.
Pulled from an old post:
0W40 is actually thicker @ 210F than 10w30, the first number is for winter grades.. Which is directly effected by how much pour point depressant additives are in it. Think of it like something they put in to keep the oil flowing at cold temperature, but the actual viscosity @ 210F is unchanged. Consider the second number as oil film strength, what really matters when the engine is running for any period of time.
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Definitely sounds like a clutch issue, they can instantly disintegrate during a gear shift (exceeding facing burst speed limit). It would feel firm then absolutely nothing.
A worn disc could also be resting against the pressure plate but not touching the flywheel (clutch dust probably buffers sound also). And pressure plate finger and springs can get broken, but that would be super loud.
The only simple thing I can think of is that the clutch cable is not retracting (long shot). Leave it in neutral and visually confirm that the clutch fork moves, while someone presses the clutch pedal.
Good luck.
Edit: Ahh, I didn't see the part about the cable/fork working ok. I guess that is out, unless its full movement is restricted. -
There are no lifters. "causes" - do you mean what ***makes*** the sound or ***causes*** the sound?
The HLA's ***make*** the sound but the ***cause*** could be a few things. Usually it's oil supply related, sometimes it's HLA related.
Read this, then read it again then again.
Semantics.... HLA's (hydraulic lash adjusters) are commonly called lifters (re synonymous). This is actually what Subaru calls them too, "valve lifters". I concede it is somewhat of a misnomer technically..
The cam followers are also commonly called rocker arms... Look up "valve lifters" and "rocker arm" in a Subaru eparts store.. they even use both terms all the way up to the new FA20/FB20/FB25 motors. Even tho the new FA/FB's use solid lash adjusters and class 3 roller cam followers, still called lifters and rocker arms in the parts system.
The sound comes from the lifter moving up and down in the sleeve or the rocker slapping cam/lifter/valve. When the HLA's are not functioning properly, they fail to "pump up" fully. This causes a much larger gap (lash) between the cam and the rocker arm. HLA's are at the end of the oil supply, so naturally when they start slapping it should raise a red flag. The next to suffer with loss of oil pressure would be cam squirters and rod bearings.
Edit: After re-reading, my reply might have sounded harsh lol. I ment no disrespect Gary and would definitely recommend your guide, it is full of great advice. I would agree that most TOD issues can be fixed with a oil pump re-seal, but I have had bad HLA's and other things causing oil starvation issues (cam case o-ring and oil pressure sender).
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Deploy the anti-tick device.
Straight pipe and loud music?
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Bearing bits will find their way into the HLA's also, if you have ever run low on oil or neglected oil changes. I have pumped out tons of crap from HLA's when cleaning with kerosene (RTFM FSM). My 90 loyale spfi had intermittent TOD (@~100k miles). The oil pump reseal is solid advice tho, they tend to suck air when the seal goes.
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I've tried using the jack trick and no luck. Also my 1/2" ratchet tends to slip out of the plug if I'm not pushing on it to hold it in there so it gets awkward. I think I will pick up a breaker bar to get more leverage and go from there. I really don't mind adding to my tool collection.
Even with a breaker bar you may have the same problem of the bit falling out. Just pull a rag over the socket so it makes a tighter fit.
Adding a proper breaker bar to your tool collection definitely opens up the amount of things you can do, even doubles as protection in a sketchy junkyard.
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Pizza shop robber drives Tan Subaru in Puyallup area
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
That 12$ pizza only cost 1.75$ to make!!