mete3

Awesome, Thank you!

The spiral type that goes behind the screw in the top. I cannot seem to get it in there right.

Mods! Please remove this as I have posted this in the correct forum. Thanks!

Mods! Please remove this as I have posted this in the correct forum. Thanks!

I accidentally posted this in the historic forum so here is the question again. This question is about the carb on an 86 4wd Brat: Do I need the spring that attached to the accel pump lever/shaft? If so how does it attach? I cannot seem to figure it out and most pictures I have seen seem to not have the spring anymore. If you have a pic it would really help me! Thanks!

Ok, sorry about the wrong thread! Will try and make sure to post to the correct thread in the future.

Edit - Mods please remove I have posted to the correct forum. This question is about the carb on an 86 4wd Brat: Do I need the spring that attached to the accel pump lever/shaft? If so how does it attach? I cannot seem to figure it out and most pictures I have seen seem to not have the spring anymore. If you have a pic it would really help me! Thanks!

after searching around it seems 11 and 13 are normal (i looked at the ecu without the engine running and got only 34) and the consensus seems to be the a code 34 will not cause mpg issues. any ideas?

the codes were 11, 13 and 34 with the white connectors plugged in and the engine running.

yeah it is spfi - 93 loyale, 5mt 4wd. I haven't done anything with the distributor timing but have watched the AOSM #09 out of interest. no test plugs are plugged in. CEL on (I'll let you know on the codes as soon as it gets dark out. Thanks again for the videos.

I recently replaced my timing belt and pulleys, oil pump, water pump, cam seals, main seal and thermostat (thanks for the videos miles fox!) When i first started the car the passenger side timing belt pulled backwards towards the firewall on the cam pulley and is was riding pretty close to the edge of the pulley. I turned the car off and loosened the tensioner and pulled the belt back to the center of the pulley. when i started the car again the belt went immediately back to riding on the edge of the cam pulley. any ideas? Also terrible gas mileage before and after this job circa 15mpg in the city any ideas on this? edit = car is a 5mt 4wd loyale with 261k, the repair was originally initiated from a ball bearing falling out of my oil pump. thanks!

I tried to purchase the oil pump and it turns out they were discontinued February 2013

I was changing my oil the other day and when i pulled the oil filter off a large ball bearing fell out. I can see where it fits and from searching around a bit it seems the only solution to this is to replace the assembly. being at best a confident amateur i'm not exactly sure what i should replace while doing this job. I'm thinking oil pump assembly (obviously) timing belts thermostat and water pump anything else? any recommendations as to what should be oem? this price almost seems to good to be true for the oil pump. $65 http://www.davesdiscountautoparts.com/item.wws?sku=028-0338&itempk=1631663&mfr=BECK/ARNLEY&weight=3.896 thanks!

Thanks for the quick replies (as always!) Now i'm not entirely certain that fuel is leaking because i cannot fine any leaks or smell fuel. Is there anything else that could cause atrocious fuel mileage? As far as the temp gauge goes it does slowly move up if it's climbing a large hill but the colder it is outside the less likely that is to happen. The heat blows hot consistently. How would I go about checking the coolant temp sensor values? Thanks again,

Does anyone have any suggestions for the following problems....? The first major problem is that out of nowhere my loyale seems to have developed a serious fuel leak... it used a quarter of a tank of gas in ~5 miles. The weather had just become very cold and I believe it's only leaking while running although I cannot smell gas with the hood open and the engine running. It has very little rust but high miles. The other (but less severe) problem is that the temp gauge never goes above the 1st notch (except in rare circumstances) and I've never heard or seen the fan come on. I can only assume this is not normal? thanks!

I successfully made the trip yesterday 34.6 mpg at 65mph the whole way. The cv joint felt fine on the interstate but low speeds/around town is clicking a lot. I'm hoping to replace this on monday.

NYC, tomorrow i'm making a trip to Pittsburgh (for good for now) and it's been running super, the engine is super quiet (except the oil cap rattles) and idles at a nice steady 800 after warm-up. the cv boot is clicking on one side and the temp gauge never goes much above the 1st click (it goes up from start but only a bit) the synchro into 1st at any speed above 10 is a bit wanky;those are my only concerns after some time in the car.

ok, bought it for $825 let's hope this is the beginning of a good thing! I'll post pics if anyone is interested when i pick it up monday or tuesday.

thanks for the good responses, i checked it out and no tick of death and no rust on the body or frame other than the 2 passenger doors from a small sideswipe. going to check it out again tomorrow to give it another once over. it started up immediately (i know he hadn't started it before i got there because we went together from his work) and the idle stayed around 1700 until it was warm and then it dropped to around 800, the temp gauge went up only a tiny bit to slightly above the first tick mark, this sounds normal?

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I should pay special attention to or common problems with high mileage loyales? The ad makes it appear to be (almost) rust free and says it has had regular maintenance. it's a 5 speed, 1.8 4 wheel drive wagon with ~250k on the clock. I previously owned a 1st gen legacy wagon and absolutely loved it and am excited to get back behind the wheel of a subaru but just want to make sure to have my bases covered. Thanks (my 1st post!)