Subaru Scott
-
Posts
610 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
9
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by Subaru Scott
-
-
This is my suggestion:
Run a dedicated, fused 20 amp circuit to your lighter socket. This is a modification you should want to do anyway so you can charge your phone without having to put your keys in.
I do this immediately on every car I buy, so it can work like it used to in the good ol days.
Then, buy a FUSED lighter plug for your charger, and fuse it to the wire size of the charger itself.
Using the OBD port for charging is sketch-o-rama!
-
Your speedo should have a speed sensor. I believe they all did after 83. When I EA82T swapped my 86 hatch, it was in there.
Can’t be much help with the SPFI, I never messed with them really. GD has actually been advising against it lately because of parts scarcity, and less low end torque than the Weber.
I would triple check your diagram/harness. All FI systems utilized a speed sensor, and would go into limp mode without one.
Good luck with the swap!
-
That actually dates back to the wet sleeve engines of the early 70s. It was pretty important to get that done, because it did make a difference on them.
The wet sleeve was a cool idea. Worn cylinder walls meant you just popped in another set. Then they found out that they never wore anyway except from heavy abuse.
They had selective copper crush rings that sealed the base of the sleeve. If you didn’t get those set just right, you would have head gasket issues. Huge pain in the a$$.
The later 1400s went to dry sleeves, and that cured Subaru’s head gasket issues... til... y’know...
-
Welcome aboard!
Whatcha drivin?
-
I was suggesting the 3.7 LSDs as a solution because of the lower ratio, and the limited slip to put more power to both wheels.
They seem to be fairly common on later-model WRXs.
-
Got the other side fabbed up.
One of the main things I love about this PVC board is that you can make bends with a heat gun.
I'm gonna rock it like this for awhile, and decide what and where I want on the front panel.
Wish list: Sturdy smart phone mount, Small section for aux. switches and maybe gauges, Open pocket to shove crap in, Classy shift boot.
-
No, you can just swap the rear end. Just don't try to go back to AWD without matching them back.
I've seen several 3.7 LSDs on ebay for around $150.
-
“Cleaning” the carb without taking it apart is not going to get the dirt out, will probably just put more in.
-
Sounds like a dirty carb to me, give it a good rebuild and you should be fine.
-
1
-
-
Pretty sure all the JDMs had the VTD transmission, which is really nice but will be next to impossible to find in the states.
The simplest fix will be getting yours rebuilt but it won’t be cheap.
The common fix is sourcing a phase 1 trans and rear differential from an Outback or Forester, but then you would probably need a TCU as well and I’m not sure if it would be plug and play.
And then you could always go to a manual transmission, but that’s a lot more work.
Go to SVX Nation on Facebook to find the real gurus.
-
There was a reply to this before the reset, not sure what happened.
Anyway, I really didn't want to try and modify the stock console because it just isn't deep enough to house a full-size double din.
Didn't want it sticking out, I like the flush look. And I wanted it angled, to see and access the screen easily.
So this is how I started, with a framework of aluminum angle and flat bar. The sides are being made with 12mm PVC board, which I LOVE, and also use for making boat furniture.
-
Sure, if you want to burn your car up.
Now, you are back feeding a circuit with a known high resistance, with an unfused wire. Perfect recipe for disaster.
That’s what the fusible links are for, and you need to replace them with real ones, not homemade.
If the fault is at the alternator junction, you are going to burn that up as well goofing around.
Find the problem!!
-
Calm down. Have a beer ????
Otherwise, permatex ultra-gray has worked for me.
-
Take your jumper from the battery to the output terminal of the fusible link block.
-
We're getting mixed test results. At one point you have power to the fuse box, then later the power is gone for some reason, but restored with a jumper wire. We need to get to some consistent test results to know what to fix.
The bad connection is giving the mixed results.
It will pass enough current to power the gauge on a test meter to show 12+v, but as soon as you throw a real load on the circuit, there is too much restriction at the fault.
It could also be that he's moving the component or wire around and temporarily making a better connection.
I'm betting it was just a fusible link all along...
-
What I did was replace the white wire with another wire, I snipped right below the link box and right before the spot I showed and ran a new wire , and that didn’t work.
DON'T start cutting wires until you have found the problem. You will probably only make things worse.
Those big wires need quality connections. Not what you are likely to get with cheap auto parts store crimp ons.
-
The only way I can test them is if I pot power from battery to where it splits before the fuse box, otherwise nothing goes on without that power
So, then you know the problem is somewhere from that point to the battery. It's not that far, you'll know it when you see it.
Look for discolored/burnt insulation at the connections. It won't be in a stretch of wire with no connections, unless someone has been butchering something.
90 percent, or more, of electrical problems on Subarus are from where someone has been in there monkeying around. Installing stereos and amps, trailer plugs, etc.
-
It's losing voltage because it has high resistance somewhere between there and the battery, not because the power is splitting off to something else.
You have a bad connection, causing the high resistance. But, you have narrowed it down to one small section, so keep looking there and you will find it.
-
Finally started building the console for my 83, so the stereo won't be hanging from straps anymore...
Just wanted to ask if anyone has had success paint matching the light brown interior?
Probably just going to go with black, but figured I'd at least throw this out there.
You know how it is, when the color is just "close," then it looks way worse than if you just try to contrast with a different color.
-
So, is it grinding if you try and shift slowly?
If so, it is a clutch disengagement issue.
If it is not, then it has likely had the teeth of the reverse gear ground down from abuse, or poor clutch adjustment. This makes it difficult to engage, because the flattened edges of the gears catch on each other.
These cars were never super easy going into reverse, and some people get frustrated and abusive with them.
Hold pressure on the shifter while slowly letting the clutch out, and it will align the gears and drop in.
-
CRC 656.
It's what we use here in coastal Florida on marine engines and other metal components to keep them from corroding in the saltwater.
It's thin, so it gets into any area that water could, and then some. But should be re-applied every 2-3 months.
-
1
-
-
Sounds to me like secondary spark failure/grounding.
Like a problem with the coil, maybe just oily dirt on top letting spark jump.
Could be the same issue on top of the distributor cap.
I have seen a few cases of holes burnt through the center of the rotor, but only on aftermarket cheapies.
just have a good look through all that, coil wire too. Swap things out if you have spares (I know you do).
-
Would have sent you a nice rust free, CO Tank.
It's a world of difference working on CO cars compared to WI.
I just pulled my Brother's 97 Legacy 2.2 last week in Sullivan WI. The rest of the car is going to the yard, but we saved the engine.
Later,
Larry
Would you happen to have a tank to fit a 2nd gen 4wd?
-
Sure, there's that.
But c'mon, I bet I could get another 15-20k out of it
"Heavy Duty" CV Axles
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
I have not tried them, but I believe they advertise a longer travel than the stock shafts, which would make them ideal for a lift.