swisscheese

Did you have to rewire the stock fan? Thermostat or a switch on the dash?

If I were to remove the belt driven clutch fan and add a 2nd electric "Air Conditioner" fan, wiring them to a temperature switch, would these provide adequate cooling? This is a EA82 N/A SPFI. That clutch fan can suck up a lot of HP, which is in short enough supply as it is.

I have been thinking (Warning!), and Shawn is right, once I have gone that far, another hour to split and reassemble the case would probably pay for itself in overall time saved, cleanliness and saved frustration from working in awkward positions (imagine laying on your back honing the cylinder with the honing oil all pouring back in your face:mad:). I will prolly end up doing that. It will give me a chance to check the main bearings as well.

How are you attaching it to the roof?

That is exactly the info I needed. Thanks for the input! :cool:

I need verification that I can pull the pistons without splitting the case. I have a ridge reamer and can make a piston pin puller, and I have the tools to hone the cylinder and replace the piston, but the chilton book I have stops short of actually saying that I can pull the pistons without splitting the case. Also, where is a good source for head gaskets at an inexpensive price? Thanks!

Would advancing the camshaft(s) have the same effect in a turbo engine as in a normally aspirated--e.g lowering the torque curve at the expense of high-end horsepower? Thanks for all the help, I am a soob noob and before I fork over a lot of dough, I want to be sure I am going the right way. Naturally, I want it all, 400 HP, 400 foot pounds at 2000 RPM, 35 miles per gallon, 100,000 miles between servicing, and 500,000 miles until rebuild.

If I am not mistaken, all EJ25's have open deck, but EJ20G came either open or closed. Do the open deck EJ20's have the same reputation for head gasket problems as the EJ25?

If you could get a USDM EJ25 SOHC for the same price as a JDM EJ20 DOHC single turbo, which would you choose and why? This would go in a 88 wagon adapted to a EA82 5spd Dual Range with roughly 28 inch tires for light off-roading duty. Thanks!

What's a set of those minilite style wheels with 4 x 140 bolt pattern go for? If you can find one? I never see them for sale but I see them on old beaters a lot.

Here is the dimensions of the chevy wheel offset: NOte: the 13 x 5.5" enkei 8 spokers I have on it now have a backspace which is 5/16" less than the chevy's. I don't forsee any problems with any interference.

Yes--6 by 5.5"

I didn't investigate it too far, but maybe it is possible to make a hybrid outer CV joint with the splined part from the front mated with the rest from the rear. If I had some old axles lying around I would check, maybe someone else has tried already? but there may be other incompatibility issues as well.

but i think with just a grinder one could grind down the hub's nubs flat, and allow the lugs/studs to center the wheels. I may end up doing that, much faster and easier than setting up on a lathe 4 times.

The bolt pattern for the 4 bolts that hold the hub to the rotor are different. I had the idea to put front rotors and calipers on the rear too, but the benefit vs. fabrication time isn't worth it (to me, at least)

Here is what the ebay seller said: "These are off of a 2002 Chevy Z-71, but I think they look great on all late model GM P/u's, Tahoe's, Suburbans, and Yukons. I think these wheels will fit: 92-03 Chevy/GMC Z-71 and 4x4 and 99-04 Chevy/GMC Fullsize 2wd P/U and SUV" I personally see them everywhere on late model GM pickups, I saw several stacks at the Truck JY last week. that is prolly why I got them so cheap. They are 16 x 7, backspacing to follow. BTW, the center hub hole is too small to fit the stock soob hubs, I will need to lathe off part of the wheel centering nubs on the hub.

MY = model year

I'll measure them for you this weekend and let you know.

Mine's got the 5spd manual with the Dual Range transfer case. Final drive is 3.9:1. I think that this year (88) came with a 1.6:1 TC ratio, so in low range 28's should be just fine for light off-roading needed to get me to my secluded fishin' holes I suppose as long as I am not trying to go over any mountain passes pulling a trailer, the EA82 will get me there. I put on a cherry bomb Turbo 2 muffler w/2" ID last night, it is sweet it fits in the stock location way better than the stock muffler did, it is a good 2" above the gas tank. Next steps--K&N cone filter in homemade cold air box, fab a new less restrictive Y-pipe, I am thinking 1.75" primaries into 1. 875" collector (gotta be thinking low-end torque), skip 2nd cat, new coil. when I have my new shop built, then I will have the room to start thinking about putting in a JDM EJ20G turbo mated to my current tranny.

With 30" tires does your EA82 have the power to safely merge onto an on-ramp etc? I have everything I need, 2x4 steel, Grade 8 bolts, steering shaft extension stuff, 16x7 chevy wheels, prolly go with 28" tires, spare hubs ready to be drilled out to 6 lug, brake line for extending, etc. but I am holding off on doing it until I can upgrade to a turbo motor. I am worried about the lack of power. But if it has adequate power now with the spfi EA82 I may start right away.

Thanks, I will just go with body lift only. Another question: on my 88 wagon, there is no room to enlarge (cut out) the front of the rear fender without having to re-engineer the back door opening. But there is plenty of room to cut out the back of the fender. Has anyone done what I am contemplating--at the same time as lifting, I could move the entire rear suspension and diff back 3-4" to gain clearance while minimizing the amount of lift required. Of course this would require lengthening the driveshaft, and possibly moving the gas tank back a couple inches. Any thoughts? I want it to look like this:

I have seen some lifted soobs described as having "X" inches body lift and "Y" inches suspension lift. (ex. 4" body, 2" suspension) How much suspension lift is practical before CV joint angles become too extreme? And am I right to assume that the suspension lift is accomplished by moving the strut mounts down the extra amount? (ex. if I do a 4" body lift and 2" susp lift, I move the 4 strut mounts down 6")

Thanks for all the help, I don't feel so bad now.:cool:

Excellent! Thanks for the info, Doc.

Frankenstein! That is exactly what I am afraid of! I just didn't want to say it out loud. I guess I will just have to make sure I have a backup car and tear into it, and be ready to fork over the $$$ to return things to normal. Lucky there is a Pull-a-part nearby with several donors at the ready. I think TPO allowed his beer drinking buddies to perform maintenance on this car in exchange for the afforementioned beer!