Surfdougyfresh

Hey gang...just dropped the fiance off at the hair dresser and headed to starbucks to waste some time with my laptop. The speedo on my 98 outback quit along with the odometer on the way. Tach is still working though. Did a search and it looks as though the VSS sensor might be the culprit. What does VSS stand for...variable speed sensor? Where is this located on the car? Don't have my Haynes manual with me...Thanks for any advice. Doug

Thanks for all the replies guys. I had the refridgerant checked a few weeks ago and it was fine so I was pretty sure it wasn't that. After writing initially and searching a bit, I took a look at the radiators. There was a napkin on the bottom, so I removed that and cleaned both the radiator and condensor with a garden hose. Both fans were working. With my digital meat thermometer in tow, we were off to Bahrain for a 'legal' beer. it was 120F again when we left at 1030am. I think the humidity had let up a bit, but their is certainly no 'dry heat' here in August and September. On the highway the temp would cycle between 51F and 60F...very nice! Even idling at customs for 20 mins., the temp wouldn't go any higher than 70F. I'll have to give a bit more attention to the front of the car when washing from now on. Thanks again!

Hey all... It's summer here in Saudi Arabia and after taking an hour drive on the highway (120F/80% humidity) in my 98 outback (2.5L), I was sweating and cursing my subie as the AC would cycle between blowing very cold and very hot. I guess it would blow cold for about 20 seconds and then blow hot for 1 minute. It usually doesn't give me a tough time and blows cold almost immediately during my short 5 minute daily commute, but the long drives during the midday heat leave me sweating. The hour drive home at 9pm (100F/80% humidity) was fine. I don't believe the compressor cycled as often, but I'm sure it cycled and didn't blow hot air during the 'down' time. I should note that the engine temp gauge would rise just a bit which seemed to kill the cold air. Once the engine temp dropped a small bit, it would blow cold again. Any connection between the engine cooling and AC systems? Thanks for any advice....

The front right end of my '98 outback gives a duh,duh,duh when going over even the smallest bumps in the road. I think it might be the shock mount, but don't want to pull everything apart to find out the thing is fine. Can anyone describe the symptoms of a broken shock mount? I've had it up on a 2 post lift and everything else seems tight underneath. Thanks guys...

Anyone have insight into the issue described as someone pulling the car backwards...the shuttering...when coming off the accelerator at speed? I've the same problem with my '98 outback MT and have looked at just about everything I can think of. When I feather the accelerator I get the same shuttering or bucking as well. What "idle" adjustment is the dealer looking into?

If you have access to an impact gun, just gun the axle nut off and the tab will open. Remove another bolt that faces toward the front of the car, pull the leg off the axle, push the pin out and you're free. Just completed this on my OBW. Quick fix. Don't mess with the steering or you'll have to realign it.

I had a problem with my '98 Outback 2.5 clutch sticking to the floor. I could pull it up with my toe, but eventually that didn't even work. I replaced my master and slave cylinders and that did the trick. I'm almost certain it was my slave cylinder, but for the few dollars to replace the master, it was worth it. I think the total repair time was 2 hours with a Haynes manual and a total cost of $130? for the 2 parts and brake fluid. I'm not sure it that's your problem, but compress your slave cylinder, near the starter I think, and notice if the piston travels well for you. If not, I'd think about that first. Good luck with this.

The cheap way out would be to have an alignment and tires balanced. Maybe you can find a $39.95 coupon around somewhere. Check the fluids too. If he didn't drive much, I can't imagine he checked the PS fluid too often. Could be a flat spot on the tires too. Too much time sitting in the driveway? The CD button on the stereo is for an auxillary changer or similar. I don't think you should need a factory changer for it to work. Might check out ebay for a bargain and then have a local shop install it if you're like me and dislike dealing with automotive wiring! Good luck.

I've got an issue with my '98 OBW, 2.5L, manual. When I'm in 4th or 5th gear and come off of the gas while traveling downhill or in stop/go traffic (so I don't run into the back of someone) and then slowly put continuous pressure back on the gas pedal, it will not immediately respond with smooth power. The pedal will travel down without responding until it finally kicks in with a jerk and small explosion of power. Can anyone point me in the right direction before I hand it off to the local stealership?

Hey gang, After looking over a few old posts, it looks as though my powersteering reservoir O-ring has gone on my 2.5L '98 OBW. Tranny fluid is leaking down the front of the engine. I'm located overseas and finding the correct O-ring could be a week long effort only to be told that it will have to be ordered. Does anyone know the correct "size" O-ring that needs to go on the bottom or is there anyone out there with easy access to the correct size O-ring that would be willing to drop it in the mail? I'm assuming it will fit in a standard envelope. You'd be helping out a Subaru lover who, against my better judgement, owns a Subie in a Subie unfriendly part of the world. I can send $ via paypal, check or cash through the mail to anyone willing to help a fellow Subie lover... Thanks.

I was at my wits end to disable my overspeed alarm, 120KM/hr+, on my foreign '98 OBW and pulled out the speedo/tach display thinking it was in there. There's a small box with a +/- 1 inch round hole that houses a small speaker. There's a flexible, flat, paper type wiring that needs to be pulled out, split the 2 "wires" that contact the speaker and you're in business. I discovered all this by mistake of course. That speaker was for the door ajar, etc. warning! The overspeed speaker is a small black box under the steering column with a similar round opening. 30 seconds to remove the wire to that one!

Here's one for those that think they've heard it all. I have a thump in the passenger compartment of my '98 OBW 5 speed (2.5L) that I can replicate fairly easily when I brake hard or go over a speed bump at speed. It sounds like a small plastic door swinging shut near the firewall. Once i've "loosened it up", I can make it thump simply by getting on and off the gas or slowing down/speeding up. It really doesn't seem to affect anything other than my sanity though the car is very jerky and the constant thumping in stop and go traffic is getting old. Any ideas?

Has anyone rebuilt or repaired an A/C compressor? It sounds like a bearing is going on my '98 OBW compressor. Living in the Middle East, the AC is constantly on and I'd like to plan ahead so I'm not robbed at the local dealer!

A quick check of the powersteering fluid might be in order. On my '98 OBW I have a leak from the reservoir, I've been told it's an o ring repair job that I will pick up when back in the states for turkey day, and have the same issue at slow speed. A $2 bottle of transmission fluid does the trip for about a month or so.

I'm in the process of diagnosing my rear gate power lock actuator issue. It's a '98 OBW w/2.5L. I pulled everything apart the other day, put an ohm/amp meter on the power connection, switched the power locks on/off a few times to find nothing on the meter. Ran 12V through the actuator to have it swing so I don't think it's the actuator. I inspected the wires running through the top of the gate, no wear there. I checked out the fuses and have access to a Haynes book, but didn't find much in either of those places. All the other doors work like a charm. Can anyone point me in the right direction? The plate lights and rear washer fluid pump don't seem to be operational either. I hate electrical!

Dan, Take a look under the hood release latch for a little black button that is required to program program the car, or program the keyfob. Not really sure which one recognizes the other. i think it's recessed a bit so you won't accidentally push it. I bought a keyfob off of ebay, only to discover that my '98 OBW doesn't have the button. There should also be a small black box under the dash that is labeled 'keyless entry' or something along that line. Do a search on this site for keyless entry. Someone posted a great photo of where to find the button and the general directions to program. Let me know if you need the keyfob...

I had the same problem with the clutch sticking to the floor. Mine would come and go, but eventually got worse. I found it to be the clutch slave cylinder which acts as a return for the pedal. Get under the hood and find the slave cylinder in the center of the bay, somewhat close to the firewall. Have someone depress the clutch or push the piston into the body by hand and see whether the piston returns quickly. From what I understand, there shouldn't be any slack between the finger (piston) and the dimpled arm. I think I paid about $45 online for a new slave cylinder and installed it in about 30 minutes. I replaced the clutch master cylinder at the same time for another $60 or so. Don't forget to use new brake fluid when bleeding the system. As for the water pump, you might want to get another estimate. The only additional cost should be for the water pump since the labor involved for the timing belt is the same for the water pump. $350 for a pump and a few bolts seems a bit high.

I had a similar problem on my 8cyl. '95 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Cleaning out the throttle body helped for a while, but after a couple months I'd have to pull it off for another cleaning...

no need for the special banding tool. draw the metal band tight with a flathead anchoring the collar and pliars pulling the free end tight. Once tight, fold the free end back on itself and crimp the whole thing down by making an X with the flathead and a hammer on top of the collar. It's been holding for me...

Hey everyone. I was well pumped when I received my keyfob today in the mail for my '98 OBW. I didn't receive one when I purchased the car a few months ago. $15 on ebay! What a deal...No directions to program as promised, but hey, a search on USMB and I'm in business. I printed a great picture and directions from someone's post of how to find the programming button under the dash, near the hood release, hold for 15 seconds, etc. I get under there and sure enough, no button! I'd found the keyless entry black box before and just assumed that if the box was there, it must be equipped. The sensor between the map lights on the ceiling and the power locks when using the key sold me even more. So what gives? If the keyless system wasn't standard on my car, anyone have any ideas what it might take to get up to speed? As a side note, should the back gate lock/unlock with the rest of the doors? Thanks guys and gals....

Hey everyone! My '98 OBW with 2.5 is running fine, though I have to wonder how much additional power I can gain by removing the cat and straight piping through maybe one can, rather than what exists now. I'm living in Saudi Arabia where emissions are talked about, but it's little more than lip service , so that's not an issue. What about retaining engine performance? Will removing the back pressure cause the engine to run any rougher/louder than it already does? Has anyone tried this? What about exhaust note?

I've had my '98 Outback in the desert here in Saudi Arabia. It doesn't keep up with my buddy's stroked blazer, but it holds it's own and it's light weight helps to keep it afloat. Just remember to deflate your tires as much as possible, keep moving over the really soft stuff, and watch your approach/exit angles.

Yes, I suppose I should tell you that I drive a '98 outback, 2.5L. I just replaced the tranny mount and both shifter bushings. I had to wonder what would cause both shifter bushings to fail and settled on the tranny mount. I'll take a look at everyone's suggestions. Thanks.

Hey everyone. I have an issue with a fairly loud knock, against what sounds like the firewall, when I'm shifting from 1-2 and 2-3. I'll be in first, get up to 3000rpm, drop the clutch, let off the gas, shift, and when I'm letting off the clutch and giving some gas, there's a single knock against what sounds like the firewall. It's almost as though there's a 16mm nut hanging from a string somewhere and in the same way that your passengers head will bob when shifting, the nut swings against the firewall. The 2-3 shift isn't as loud, but still there. It will also happen if I brake or let off the gas suddenly too. Can anyone think of something that might need to be adjusted or tightened up to eliminate this knock? I've been up under the console and in the back of the engine bay looking and shaking everything....Thanks!

I own a '98 outback wagon and after ordering new wires that don't match the originals, I wonder if my engine is the 2.5 I thought it was. The VIN is JF1BG9LFBWG095772. The number stamped on the engine is 223988. The W in the VIN matches the '98 model year, but the 9 isn't identified as an engine type in my haynes manual. The car is located overseas which might explain some differences. Any ideas? Did the '98 even come with a 2.2? Anyone want to swap wires?