Beegeer

I welded mine works well.

The oil pressure pressure gauge seemed to work with the old engine. It would read 50 at cold start. The warm up and read 5-10psi at 800 rpm and maybe 20 at 3000 rpm. Now at start up it takes a few seconds to build up to about 60psi at 800-1000rpm and if I rev it up to 2500-3500 it reads 70psi. It is not in the red range, but very close. One of the rockers seems to be ticking as well. I set the valve lash at 0.010 & 0.014. Could it be the sending unit? Where is that located? Where does the oil pressure gauge take it's reading from?

I did check the pickup when I resealed the oil pan/sump. It was clear. Although it could have become plugged since.

That is my question. My gauge goes up to 75psi. Above 1500 rpm it is reading a/b 70psi just below the red.

Just did my first engine swap. It was pretty straight forward, ea81 to ea81. One with a Carter-Weber carb The other a Hitaichi. I pulled the heads, lapped the valves, new gaskets etc. One question that came up was My Fel- Pro kit came with 8 valves seals. While the heads only had seals on the intake valves. See Thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36564&highlight=valve+seals I installed seals on all valves. I fired my new engine up all seems good no leaks, timing not too bad. Oil pressure is really high... Is this bad? It is not in the red but very close. i have not had it above 2500rpm yet. Is this normal? will it level out? Or did I screw up with the valve seals? Any feedback?? :-\

Nope I have an ea81. The gasket kit I bought as a Felpro HS 8818 PT, it came with 8 valve seals. It says right here on the box for 1.8l (ea81), so I have the right kit. All the seals are the same. Good point, heat on exhaust side might be why they come with out.

I was doing the exact same procedure today. I found teh same thing. The kit I bought to reseal the heads had eight seals. I put them on they fit right, there seems to be room??? I do not see what harm it could do?? Maybe I'll wait for more info before putting engine back together...

We use the same schedule as 6061, this is off the top of my head so I might be off by a bit. Any heat treat facility would know the proper schedule… Heat treat: 950 F for 2 hour soak/ per 0.25 in Quench:water glycol mix a/b 20% Artificial age: 350F for 8hours. This will get the 356a back up to T6. However I think Torxxx has the best suggestion….

Matty B, Your heads are most likly cast of 356a, which can be welded. I weld investment cast 356a parts to aluminum bike frames every day. We heat treat them back up to to T6 before we machine. I have machined non-heat treated parts and they do not cut very well, very soft. Have you tried a helecoil?

CooL! post up again next trip out, maybe my car will be in one piece by then...

Kdixey, I know your in the <$1000 range, however this might worth a call. http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/64263279.html See ya at work... Yellow wagon.

Chef, No I do want to keep it 4wd. Thanks for the tip.

Ok First time, here goes... I acquired two running 1983 wagons, total cost: $310. One is a 4wd the other 2wd. I replaced most of the common stuff in the 4wd, front axels, ball joints, wheel bearings, brake pads and basic tune up. Runs OK, it does have 275K miles on the EA-81 engine. The other car only has 100K on it and the engine seems to be in much better shape. So I was planning on an Engine swap. Here is were my question lies. The 2wd has a 5-speed tranny. Can I swap that out with the 4speed in the tranny in the 4wd Soob as well??