DT250a

Thank you so very much for contributing to my thread. I have read your postings as well as Kanurys' & learned very much from them. .

. So the line that goes to the AA is just laying open against the PS fender for now. I assume it should have no force with AC off, and a vacuum with AC engaged? I then plugged the manifold hard line (which pulls vacuum) where the AA line was incorrectly hooked by me. This made the idle drop to 550 - 600 RPMs. I adjusted the idle speed on the Weber so it's at 775 - 800 RPMs when warm. The manifold hard line, which pulls vacuum, was left open for a couple years, and the car ran well. I'm still assuming that it should be plugged? Now, how does the air / fuel screw work? Does it meter air, so that unscrewing it leans out idle mixture & screwing it in richens idle mixture? .

. I do not have an 'accelerator actuator'. What does it do? (EDIT: Does it increase idle RPM's when AC is engaged? I want that!) What should I do with the hose? Is it ok leaving it open to air until I get the AA, and then plug the hard manifold line it's currently plugged into? .

The belts look fine. Would it be worth buying extras just to have? I assume we're talking about the accessory belts; alternator, AC, PS, etc? .

. OK. I keep finding things that I wrongly assumed before. In my first posts, I explained how the heater control canister had a vacuum line that went toward the front without terminating. I was wrong! The heater control have always been hooked to the manifold under the rear of the carb! The mystery line goes to a small module in front of the heater control canister. See my pics: . Now, the question is, where does this mystery line go? Is it ok where I put it (on a manifold hardline that pulls vacuum)? was it supposed to be just dangling as a vent or something? . I need to figure this out before my drive tonight. .

. Thanks djellum. I would like to take a 260 mile round trip before I make any more changes to get a baseline on how it's running & what mileage I'm getting. Is that a bad idea? My dad drove it a lot, even with the disty hooked to the manifold hard line (thermo switch?).

. Well it was more like two months ago I got the car but it's just been sitting. The tires are almost bald so I need to get on the 6-lug bandwagon pretty soon too. Kinda funny, but the first mod I did to this car was to install a trailer hitch . . . . bahahaha . . . . not sure how much it will get used though with the power characteristics . . . LOL. I want to tint the windows also. Trailer hitches & tinted windows . . . . every car I've owned had both .

. One of my next tasks will be running a manual choke cable from the cabin to the carb. It's going to take a sort of 'S' shaped routing that I don't know if the cable can handle or not. It was suggested to have a pivot point or linkage bolted into the manifold near the carb to overcome the angle issue. If anyone has routed their cable successfully, I would love to see a photo & hear some tips. . So . . . . at this point it seems to be running healthy. Any reason not to take it on a little trip? 130 miles each way? .

. Success! Took the adapter plates down to the bottom one. Screws were about finger tight. One of them was a torx-30. The mechanic who installed the kit must have buggered up the head. Or the kit was missing a screw? I tightened using a hand held impact driver. Light taps as I had visions of cracked & crumbling aluminum. While the carb was off I installed a new vacuum line to the right ported tap. I then plugged the end & left it dangling. (only change one thing at a time) Upon start up there was no more squeal & it seemed to idle a little lower and more steady. I then cut the new vacuum hose off the ported carb outlet to the proper length to reach the disty. At idle I felt no vacuum on the ported line, & strong vacuum when revving the engine. Cool! I then pulled the old hose off the disty, & pushed on the new ported line. (all this with engine running) I felt the old hose for vacuum pull. I felt none at idle, & none while revving the engine. Hmmmm . . . . engine was warm too, so no thermo switch issues. I plugged the old hose for now & it's time for a test drive. Oh - and total number of nuts & washers dropped into the intake manifold - 0 . . . whew . . . . .

. I just found the whistle source from my video. Vacuum leak in the adapter plates at rear of carb. I tightened the carb nuts & it got less but wouldn't go away. I put my finger over the lower joint and it stopped. Gonna have to pull the carb & tighten the screws that are currently not accessible. .

Ooooooops . . . . . That makes sense. Two weeks ago I knew nothing about Subarus whatsoever. My father told me it was a GL-10 so I went with it. The 6th digit of the VIN is a '5', so I'm assuming it's a GL wagon with engine code '5'. Any way a moderator could omit the '-10' from my title? .

. I'm going to do a seafoam treatment to my engine. I plan on sucking half a can into a vacuum port ( which one?), or should I just pour in into the carb while holding the throttle open a bit? Then I will put the rest in the tank. If you have an opinion on which vacuum port to use, or prefer to pour directly into carb, let me know. Thanks

. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION VEHICLES ONLY I just wanted to post the Subaru part number for the Auto transmission vacuum diaphragm, aka vacuum modulator. This is the vac can that is on the passenger side of the trans and has a vac line running to the manifold. The following part numbers correspond to my 1987 GL-10 3AT non turbo, but also fit others. Vacuum Diaphragm - Subaru Part 31931AA000 $41.38 Alternate part: NAPA Part 1-5243 $34.23 OEM part recommended for longevity. Symptoms when bad: White smoke out exhaust. Could be thin, could be clouds of smoke that cover an entire intersection! ATF consumption. Diagnosis: Pull vac line off vac mod can. If fluid drips out or is present, it is faulty. I hope this helps someone save time. .

Don't forget I have a three speed automatic & selectable 4WD. It's never gotten great mileage. I can do that. I think I will get a new PCV too. First I will plumb the distributor directly to the carb. I like to change one thing at a time to minimize confusion & compounded problems. .

Hey Guys, I'm in WA state. Idaho is less than a mile from my front door. Oregon is about 60 miles to the south. I joined this forum after inheriting a 1987 GL-10 4WD Wagon w/ 3AT. My father had it Weberized by a local shop. It ran great for a couple years then developed a miss due to vacuum issues. My thread is here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=135888 Oh, I do have an important question. Is it Soobie, Suby, Subie, or Sooby? How do you spell Sue-bee ?? .

. Thanks for the diagram MilesFox. Since I have the Weber, much of it doesn't apply, but I'm assuming the EGR components do? .

I'm about 6 hours from Lake Owyhee but might be in the Caldwell area with the soobie soon. My father claimed 23 with the Hitachi carb & 25 with the Weber. I haven't really driven the car. .

WHAT SIZE? WHICH PORT ON MANIFOLD? WHAT DO I DO TO UNHOOK IT? AS FAR AS I CAN TELL THERE IS AN EGR THING ON THE PS WITH 5/8" OR SO GOING ACROSS THE ENGINE TO A BLACK BOX NEXT TO THE DISTRIBUTOR. WONT CARB CLEANER EAT RUBBER STUFF? IS THERE A SAFER ALTERNATIVE? DEEP CREEP MAYBE? HOW DO I KNOW IF IT IS OR ISN'T? i EXPLAINED HOW IT IS ROUTED ABOVE. HOW DO I KNOW NO LEAKS EXIST, SPRAY TEST? i DON'T HAVE ANY VACUUM TOOLS / PUMPS, BUT THAT HAS BEEN ON THE TOOL LIST FOR A LONG TIME SO I WILL HAVE TO PURCHASE A KIT. HARBOR FREIGHT SHOULD WORK UNLESS I FIND SOMETHING LOCAL. .

. Here is a video. There is a whistle at idle that my father says wasn't there before. Under load it goes away ie. put in drive & give a little gas with brakes on. . At this point I'm thinking I need to re plumb the vacuum system to the bare essentials; heater controls, distributor, brake booster, transmission vacuum modulator. After I get the carb tuned & running well I would then incorporate the EGR & thermo vacuum switch. I guess I can ditch the ASV (what is it called?)? The problem is that while mechanics aren't new to me, vacuum & emmission systems are. So I don't know how to bypass the EGR & thermo switch. I guess I could run the dist straight to the carb, leave the brake booster & trans modulator where they are, and run the heater controls to where? or are they in the right spot? Then anything left just plug? Help! .

. Here is a pic of the vacuum ports / lines that I addressed. The canister above the PS strut for heater controls had a line running forward that was just laying there. The end looked like it had broken off of whatever it was plugged to. I plugged it into a hard line sticking straight up out of the manifold per pic below. I then plugged two additional soft lines coming out of the manifold hard lines per pic. These lines went to the factory air cleaner assembly. After I did this, it ran smoother with much less bog when gassing it from idle. It also started smoking a little blue (oil). Is there a way for the engine to suck oil & burn it if vacuum lines are incorrect? My PCV routing is as follows: Drivers side goes into manifold under back of Weber carb. Passenger side goes into air cleaner for fresh air draw. What is correct & what isn't? .

Here is a little update: Above I stated that the distributor was hooked to the front of the Weber. It is NOT. It has a short soft line that hooks to a hard line that travels under the manifold. I'm assuming it goes to the thermo vacuum switch? Is this ok? Why does everyone say to hook it to the right port on front of Weber? .

. I don't plan on abusing this car or doing any crazy 4-wheeling with it. I would like it to be reliable yet have more power. I would also like to use it in the mountains in a non destructive manner on suitable roads & trails. [shameless plug] My buddy owns a 4x4 fabrication shop, http://www.the4x4store.com, so I will be getting much assistance from him. I might also have him make me tube bumpers, if it can be done tastefully. [/shameless plug] The engine & tuning will be all me. I'm heading out for a little camping, so if you have any thoughts, comments, or ideas, please post to my thread! .

. The carburetor problem turned out to be a vacuum problem or so it seems. As you can see, one of my goals has already been achieved. My father was having trouble with the OEM carb, & bought a kit for the Weber swap. The Weber is a manual choke model. On the front, there is a vacuum port with a line going to the distributor. (EDIT: it's not going to the distributor. see post below) To the left of that is another vacuum tap, but it came plugged from the factory with a metal insert. The carb kit was installed by a local reputable shop. That doesn't mean that it was done right. The issue was that the car would drive & cruise fine, but would bog when you gave it gas from idle. After the carb swap it ran great for a couple years, then the bog started. There is a doohickey on the passenger side firewall with vacuum lines. One goes across to the other side and disappears into the body. I'm assuming it goes to the A/C / Heater controls? The other one goes toward the front of the engine and was just laying there. (EDIT: SEE POST #30)I found a metal vacuum fitting on the manifold that was vacant and was pulling vacuum. I hooked this mystery line to it and it seemed to help my problem. It did drop the idle speed though. My last two photos illustrate this point. There are also many more short vacuum lines next to the carb that aren't plugged or anything. I'm assuming that they went to the OEM air cleaner housing. One of them is pulling vacuum. The rest don't seem to be. What I want to do is simple. I want to take care of the vacuum lines in the proper way so that the car runs as it should. I would rather do things the right way with no short cuts, so I'm assuming to retain the EGR & thermo / vacuum switch? Am I missing mine? Also, the A/C compressor was recently replaced with new, but it isn't blowing cold air. It either needs charged, or could it also be a vacuum issue? In time, I want to fab a plate for the top of the Weber and use the OEM air cleaner housing. I also will be drilling the hubs for 6-hole wheels, & possibly doing a 2" lift. .