Ofeargall

Well, got it all back together today. Not bad, not bad... Still smell it a bit though. I'm putting lavender and eucalyptus essential oils in the fresh air intake tomorrow. The next big problem is the oil leaking on the exhaust. The smoke come in through the fresh air intake on the passenger side... :-( If its not one thing it's another.

After cleaning out my entire vent system because of mouse activity, I see I need to do this too. Have you tested to see I the solder melts off the resistor wire?

When they got in to my 68 Datsun it wasn't nearly as bad because I could just pull the seats and hose out the interior. These new-fangled cars and all their enclosed spaces and impossible to reach stuff... I had to pull the fender liners on tje Subaru because they had stored so much stuff in there the fresh air intake was unable to drain. In Arizona that's probably not an issue. In Oregon that means all the urine soaked mouse bedding in the vent gets flodded and runs onto the fuse panel. I had to spray the fuse panel with starting fluid to clean it out.

My timing belt broke a while back as I was just leaving for work. I rolled the car back into a wide spot in the driveway until I could get parts and the time to do the job. Well, that was about a month. After getting the job all done, I fired up the rig, turned on the heater and was covered in all manner of mouse bedding... And other things... Today, I went on a mouse hunt. He had made his home in the hardest part to get to, the driver's side vent. I had to remove everything and scrub it all with Awesome. I had to dismantle the fan, the whole bit. Hopefully when I get out there tomorrow I will remember how to put it all back together... I hate mice.

LOL! Hey, That's mine! I replaced my timing belts, 'rebuilt' my oil pump, replaced my cam seals and cam cap o-rings and removed my timing belt covers all in a day. It's easy-peasy. And, after about 5 miles my ticking lifters grew silent. The 'rebuild' on the EA82 oil pump is essentially replacing o-rings. The BIGGEST difficulty is getting the oil pump drive pulley off the pump shaft. I heated up the shoulder nut on the shaft and let it cool down then put some PB Blaster on it so it would soak in. After that the nut came off easily. I had to use my giant channel locks to hold the drive pulley while breaking the nut loose. Just be sure to wrap it in something so you don't mark up the pulley surface. And, I gotta say, you're 'oil leak' makes the under side of my engine look like the Gulf Oil Spill of 2010! We named our car Smokey because there is so much oil on the exhaust that is looks like an oil refinery fire when you pull up to a stoplight. Having said that, I just resealed the pump on Saturday and drove it 70 miles to work today and there is significantly less oil on the under side of the engine. I let it sit and and saw only a very small spot of oil on the ground. Previously it looked like I was trying to lubricate the parking lot. One tip I found the most useful here is the started bump trick when removing the crank pulley. Do it. You'll save a lot of headache. Just don't be a fool about it. Be safe and it's fine. I used my 18" breaker bar with a 22mm impact socket on it. Place the socket on the crank pulley bolt head and place the handle against the frame in front of the motor. (I removed the radiator to do the work, but you don't have to...). As you're facing the engine the handle will extend to your right and rest on the frame. DISCONNECT the coil wire going to the distributor. Now, simply 'bump' the starter. - You're done. I was able to remove the bolt with my fingers after this technique. For the record. I did try to loosen the nut without this method but quickly realized the futility and went immediatly to mechanical advantage (the starter bump method). With the crank pulley off and the water pump pulley removed you're wide open to remove the timing belt covers and get going on that oil pump.

Got it! Picked up the Mickey Mouse at NAPA and got it all fixed up. Took the young men and put them behind the wheel for a drive on the backroads.

So I finally have time to fix my timing belt and figured I would do the oil pump rebuild. Problem is, there is no Mickey gasket. Did I get the wrong kit or did they replace the gasket with separate o rings? 89 wagon EA82 non turbo, EFI.

Thanks guys. Looks like I didn't get the crank seal. Not sure why. I'm getting ready to replace the timing belts. There's oil all under the car and I'm assuming that contributed to the timing belt failure. I've read that the oil pump leaking is the big issue with oil leaks and the TOD. Quick question though, don't I have to pull the valve covers to replace the cam tower o rings?

I just picked up my oil pump rebuild kit and some other seals. I ordered cam seals, cam cap o rings and a crank seal but I don see anything that looks like a crank seal. Anyone know the part number or have a photo of one? Here's the PN's I got: 806718090 (1) 806958020 (qty 1but there are 2 o rings in the bag) 103089aa010 (2) 8067388040 (2) X2421aa000 (oil pump kit) Any help is appreciated.

I just ordered an EA82 oil pump rebuild kit, crank seal, cam seals and cam cap o-rings for $72 from my Subaru dealer. I broke a timing belt (oil soaked timing belts don't last very long I hear...) and will be rebuilding/resealing the places that might leak oil while I'm in there. My timing belt kit from ebay was $65 I believe... Includes the belts and tensioners. You may want to think about that while you're in there. Then again, maybe with so little miles the belts might be fine. My intent is to follow the thread already posted here about rebuilding/resealing the pump.

Thanks for including these! My local dealer couldn't locate the part number for the kit in the first set of images posted.

Well, actually.... This is not my son's girlfriend though. She's my niece. We took this atop a ridge while traveling some powerline roads. I'm not sure if everyone here has these kind of roads. They're the roads that follow under the main power easements through the wilderness. Some can be treacherous, others quite enjoyable. I'm sure it won't be long before homeland security shuts down access to these roads/trails.

I drained my transmission oil and it looked and smelled terrible. I replaced it with a mix of ATF and 30 weight oil. I'll replace it again shortly. After placing the ATF/30wt mix in the case it made it easier to shift in the mornings and the detergent in the ATF will help clear out any gunk form the old tranny fluid.

I'm not sure where to post this so I thought I would start here. We're thinking of doing a *mild* Death Valley run in March from the Central Willamette Valley in Oregon. Our goal is really a father-sons road trip more than anything. Maybe 4-5 days at most. It's about 16 hours to Death Valley National Park from our front door. We would be open to caravanning. We are NOT intending to go thrashing, hard core off-roading. Just some basic trails, camping, having a good time etc. If interested please post here or send me a PM. Also, if you have any trail/road recommendations that would greatly appreciated.

I've been following this thread since starting it and just haven't had time to report back in. It's a bit of a Russian novel. If you have time, read on... Like many others, I too was religious about shifting at 3000 RPM. Not sure why really. I guess it just 'sounded' right. Maybe it's because that's the cruising revs on the highway so I assumed that was the shift point. Since starting this thread I've taken a vacation over to Bend, Oregon. The trip over to Bend from my place crosses a mountain pass. Our family of 4 with our dog and the regular vacation supplies (food, clothes, guitar, full tank of gas) tipped the scales at 3600 pounds. I weighed the car last night on my way home from work and it came in at 2780 pounds. If I had stuck to my 3000 RPM shifting regime I likely would have blown my vacation just getting there and back! My son drove on the way over. His instructions were to shift at 3600RPM and to keep it at or slightly above 4000 RPM on the hills. That seemed to be the magic spot for us. Anything over 4400 RPM and the car didn't seem to produce that much more pulling power. While on the trip I took my son and my friend's daughter out for some bad weather driving lessons. We did hard braking, slides and hill starts in the snow before trying some mild drifting on the dirt roads at lower elevations. The goal was to help the kids feel when the car was about to 'break loose' and how to get it back into control without panicking.They did GREAT! What I noticed during the driving lessons was that the low end torque was great for the snowy hill starts. I intentionally kept the car in 2WD to make it more challenging. When starting on the hill in the snow, the torque was ample enough to hold the car on the hill at an idle while slipping the clutch allowing an easy transition off the brake pedal to the accelerator pedal. On the gravel we kept it in 3rd around 4000 RPM giving the driver a great amount of control during a slide to feather the pedal and 'give it the beans' or to back off and gain enough traction to keep things in control again. So, long story short... I'm shifting at 3500-3700 regularly with occasional shifts at 4200-4300 (to avoid logging trucks, etc...) and the car seems to operate much better! The only thing I've noticed is my oil leak is a little worse at the higher revs and I can hear a rumble that I'm not sure if it's coming from the tranny or a hub I need to replace. But that's an issue for another thread. Thanks to everyone for all the great input. PS, I'm still looking for a safari basket if anyone has one for sale...

I know the hill of which you speak... I would likely do the same for fear of blowing things apart. Maybe I'm being too cautious.

Beautiful! I started shifting at about 2800-2900 when I first got the car. Recently I've been shifting between 3000-3500 because it seemed more effective. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't over revving the old engine... I'm headed over the mountain pass to Bend on Monday with a fully loaded car. I suspect we'll be in 3rd gear most of the way uphill. I'll keep it around 3200 or so. Hopefully that'll keep everything happy. Thank you!

I drive an older (1986) Honda Civic Si about 140 miles a day commuting to work. I picked up this 89 Subaru wagon, EFI, 4wd with a 5 speed - D/R. It has stock 13" tires and everything is stock on it. I shift my Honda at different revs, it revs up quite higher, and I wondered what the general consensus is here for shifting your stock Subaru? Based on my freeway driving, I'm guessing 3,200 RPM is kind of the normal operating range since that's about what I'm turning at 65MPH. But, when do most of you shift in a stock rig like this?

The car I pulled the hub from this morning was a 91 Loyale, non-turbo, manual and everything fit perfectly. $10 with my old hub as the core. Pretty successful day! I also drained out my tranny. Good Lord did that stuff look and smell bad. No wonder I can't shift into second gear first thing in the morning.

Thanks for this running post. I've got the same problem except I caught mine before it completely stripped out the hub. My cone washer was toast and I got the dealership to order a new spring and cone for the one side. I'm also headed to the pick-n-pull today or tomorrow for a new (used) hub. They've got a 91 loyale. I'm driving an 89 wagon. They say it's a fit... I'm hoping they're right. Let me know what they charge you on that hub.

This thread is quite helpful as well. I just found it... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=136936 The local Subaru dealer says 3 days to get a new cone and thrust washer. $13.90 for the washer, $12.77 for the cone.

Okay, maybe not this morning... It was pretty dark and rainy as I left on my 75 mile commute... But, what kind of wear indicators am I looking for on the hub? The axles are new (reman, I'm guessing). I bought the car a few weeks ago off craigslist so I don't know all the things that have, or have not, been done to it. I did notice while getting tires this weekend that that the lug nuts have a significant shoulder on them as if they had been run loose or something. It was also quite difficult to get the wheels off the pilot center of the hub after removing the lug nuts. I had to us a wooden block and hammer to persuade the wheels off.

Ah, dang. I didn't get a shot of the hub. I'll get a shot in the morning.

I thought by bearings were bad but I pulled the axle and there is no play. But I wonder if its my cone washer? I tightened the axle nut and it was loose inside of a day. Could the cone washer be the issue?

Subaru Symmetry 270107.2