grant

I think I mentioned tubes earlier. That's the reason for the cap head bolts. I was setting up a computer at work when I had another idea. cut most of the side wall out of two tires and then bolt two tires together. Widen a rim, then bolt on angle. These ideas may sound crazy, but I have a way of making them look good and work at the same time.

I forgot to mention that I also want to experiment with bridging the gap between the dual tires. I have experience cutting up tires, so I figure that the tread surface from little car tires could be wrapped around the tires and affixed somehow. Haven't quite worked out how that would be done yet.

The good pictures are back up, so if you haven't seen the thread already...check it out. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22307 I don't know exactly how I plan to make my tires yet. I will know after it snows a few times. First off I need to experiment to see if angle iron BOLTED to a tire will wear too quickly. I am going build 4 different ideas and test them on each wheel of the plow truck: -1. Tire chains fixed to the rim (using bolts as shackles to eyelets welded to the rim?) -2. Angle iron used over the tread surface instead of chain. (like steel paddles) Chain will be used to attach them to the tire. -3. Angle iron bolted to the tread with a tube to hold air. Use hex cap head bolts with large fender washers on the inside with a nylock nut on the outside. -4. Angle iron in a chevron pattern bolted to the tread... I'm also going to experiment with different air pressures to see which is better for extreme traction in snow and ice. Enough pressure to let the rubber conform around the steel, or the side wall listed pressure. I am not doing this initial test to validate traction performance in offroad situations, this test will be to gauge the dammage caused by drilling holes through and bolting steel to a tire. I figure a plow truck would be the best method to test the ideas, since plow trucks are heavy and transfer a large amount of torque to the ground. I would not try driving it on the road. So either I bring a spare set of tires or trailer the thing. In the case that chaining steel to a tire works, I could chain the inner set of tires and build a custom set of duallys that bolt to the inner rim. So I bring an extra set of tires on top and "bolt" them on later. Of course all that extra usage stuff I mentioned is just logistics at this point. All I want to do for now is drill holes in tires and bolt steel to them. Its like an unscripted version of the Red Green show.

I think I have my plan straight. I'm going to obtain some Jeep Dana 35 reject axles and do front and rear steer. I've got a zuk transfer case lined up for the project. I'll probably start the project if everything goes well sometime around the beginning of November. For tires I will be making cheveron tractor tires out of bald 265/75R16s and angle iron. Might run duallys all the way around... Alaska liftlaws limit me to 23" on the unibody, so I might have to weld in some factory "option" unibody stiffeners. Thanks for the advice. The one I've found so far is a 5 speed. Maybe the 5 speed has more beef due to the lower 1st and the dual range?

Sorry guys, don't know what I was thinking. I have a D44 IFS diff in the garage and I guess somehow I played with it wrong. Anyway, glad I was worng! I was spinning it the same direction in both orientations, when in reality it would be swapped... It seems like I've got some of the best axle mod guys already reading this thread, so I won't start a new one. Has anyone ever thought of building an assembly to bolt the rear IRS parts to that would articulate itself? so you would have the best of both worlds? Handling and articulation? Its a very interesting thought at the least...

What I tried to say is if I found an AWD subaru manual, how hard is it to weld the center diff into part time? I'll never need to run it THAT often on road. subarubrat - have you hooked a driveshaft up to your front diff yet? I just don't see how it would work unless the nissan transfer case has a reversed rotation output for the front axle. I think you'll need to flip it upside down to the the shafts rotating the right direction? I love what you've done by replacing the front transaxle with a rear diff. I have a buddy up here in Alaska who also thought of that, but never got far enough to figure out if it would work. Take a look at this link: http://www.myhumvee.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=5&cat=Used+Military+Parts I don't know what exactly they are selling (how much of the "hub") but it is interesting. If they're selling pretty much the entire outer knuckle it shouldn't be "too hard" to put those portals onto the subaru. The hubs have a 1.92:1 gear ratio. So it would take about 90MPH at the odometer to get 45mph on the highway. But it would also be possible to mount a transfer case backwards to go on the highway... Probably a little too much for this audience...

You guys still around? I just posted a bunch of subaru related offroad pictures from alaska here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=178441 I'm looking for a 4wd wagon for a "project". Doesn't need to have good shafts or diffs, but want a good engine/tranny. Grant

Future mods, cover up the sharp metal edges. :TU: Also want to add handles for people to hold on. I go over bumps and logs that make people fly up off their seats. If you think this is cool, I can help you build one. I have the computer program saved that cuts the hitch parts. There isn't even $3 of metal in that hitch. -------- All right. So tell me, will I fit in here...or should I go home while I'm a head?

Continued... Without the nissan, I can hot rod that thing. You can barely feel this subaru and three people. MUCH safer too. You have to be careful, because you can get going too fast with it. Hauling a toyota engine for Trevor. An understanding family, father, really helps with the build process. Old hitch design. Works good, lots of slop. Used a receiver hitch pin upside down. Andrew and I made this hitch. I also put a set like this on the back of the nissan. Completely un restricted motion. Will jack knife 180 degrees sideways, descent and approach 180 degrees, and spin freely. Interference fit 1/2" stainless bolt and locking nut. Beta testing hitch function. rig and nissan are on flat ground, Subaru is jack knifed on on a 45* grade.

Below is a post I made to the Alaskan Offroad website. While not totally subaru related, or maybe even old generation related, the insane people in here should enjoy it. Image loaded, beware all you stuck with modems... ------------------------ Well, to me this isn't too hard core. The subaru was in fact my second welding "project" after the plow. Well, maybe it is hard core that a "vehicle" a few inches longer than a crew cab can turn tighter than a jeep and go down a 5 foot wide trail. I brough home a subaru from KCC back when I was in high school. They were going to throw it away, so I parted it out in the back yard and then needed to throw it away. So I cut in half. (to load it into the pickup) Then I was looking at it and noticed it would be pretty cool to turn it into a trailer. Feed back. Want more info? Or is this enough? 1996 Ploaris 400 with automatic 1990 Subaru Justy ECVT (removed all junk including sway bar and tank) 1985 Nissan Sentra 4 dr (removed all junk like the gas tank, no sway bar) The Nissan probably weighs 300lbs, subaru probably 250. The Subaru is MUCH better balanced than the nissan. The nissan only has positive tongue weight when a 1x1x.5 steel brick is added to the hitch point. IMPOSSIBLE to stop going down hills, IMPOSSIBLE to slow down going down hills. possible to stop/slow from reasonable speeds at reasonable steering angles. Panic stops straight a head ONLY. We're talking about a 800lb 4 wheeler pulling around TWO trailers weighing ~100-200 more than the 4 wheeler. Thats like offroading in an F250 with a 7k trailer and no brakes benind you. I will not be responsible for stupid people who don't take this warning seriously. Before taking ANY passengers, drive the train yourself and purposely jack knife all trailers at least a few dozen times. This is dangerous for the 4 wheeler driver, and when all the limitations are known can fill the faces of guests with huge smiles. I wish I had 3rd person shots of this train. It looks SOO cool offroad, but even better going through ditches. Its like a big snake the length of a crew cab pickup. The 4 wheeler makes a 3 foot 80 degree ascent from the ditch, the nissan is slammed backwards and then launched out of the ditch due to the small tires. The hitch slams into the dirt. When the nissan starts to come out of the ditch the subaru tongue gets shoved into the dirt. Then the subaru hops out (hard to describe this, its got real bouncy coil overs). Then the 4 wheeler goes down...etc. Oh yeah, gravel driveways at a 20* slope will almost kill the train. A 4 wheeler with locked front andrear is needed for this, so no cheap limited slip 4 wheelers allowed! I also designed the hitches with tongues long enough to compensate for a 4 wheeler turning radius. I can spin almost spin a 100" circle. Btw, Trees grow straight up and down. So compare that to the rickshaw. I take this places that no jeep could go. Man, its cool. :TU: Pictures taken with a junk video camera strapped to the cargo rack of the 4 wheeler. Next summer I am going to film shots (setup the shots on purpose) to get content for the offroad video. Be patient for the photos...

I promise, this is the last of what I have on subarus... I forgot about another subaru related thing I have, although its not completely subaruish...just a sec...

Looks like the internet backfired. One picture lost its way...

NOTE: We had a power outage a few minutes ago. My buddy hosts the interesting photos on this page (the subaru that looks like a bath tub and the one with the fenders missing and tire chains). I have no idea how long it will take them to get it back up. Here are pictures from Alaska: I think that one is an 81 or so. Chains and plastic doors. This one is supposed to be a late model 80s. 31" truck tires and a welded rear end. The tires on the orange chevy below are 45" tall. Deep water. That's all I've got for now...

subarubrat - Your rear diff in the front was mounted upside down for correct rotation?

Thanks. Thats good news about the rear output. However, I won't be using the stock IFS parts. I will most likely get some late model Dana 30-35 jeep front axles and do a SAS (solid axle swap) with front and rear steer (circle and crab steering). My tire chice will probably be 31x10s for street driving and some custom (redneck style) tractor tires for offroad. Still in the concept stages. I hate the newer body styles, so it would have to be ~88 or under. Looking for a non AWD donor vehicle. Hopefully I can find one with a dead diff or something that I wouldn't need. Is there a way to weld the diff (?) in the AWD version to make it equivalent to part time?

I've been reading about the subaru at http://www.subarubrat.com/ and as much info as I can about the 4wd subaru here. Mostly what I'm looking for is information on the strength of the rear output from the transmission. It sounds like it wasn't designed for primary usage. Has anyone ever had problems with the transfer case mod? I guess if anyone were to have a problem it would be the fellow with the 6 cyl motor. i'm no stranger to custom suspensions and vehicle mods, I've built a F150 into a mud buggy. 2.5 ton rockwell axles and 52" tractor tires. Two NP205 transfer cases, C6 auto, and a 400cuin motor. But I have interest in building something at the opposite end of the weight spectrum. Does anyone know of any solid axle / IFS transfer case photos other than what I listed above? If I were to do this I would have to keep the lowest part of the vehicle halfway between the front and rear tires 23" or lower to the ground. (Alaska highway laws...) Thanks, Grant