dptyrob

Okay, thanks for the info. I was thinking it would be a reach, but then again I'm accustomed to reaching around my elbow to get to my fanny.

I haven't even seen the car yet. Does will the EA82 engine bolt up to the EA71 tranny?

I've got a line on a low mileage (4*,***) 80 model 2 dr subaru with 4 speed DR tranny. What all would I need to make this work in my wife's 90 Loyale wagon? Would I need an adapter plate or different drive shaft? Would the half shaft splines mate up? I don't know much about the engine nomenclature. I take it the 90 Loyale has an EA82 engine. Is the 80 model going to be an EA81? The guy told me it's the 1600 engine.

Well, today was the first chance I've had in the last week or so to just get out and tinker, though I had some other stuff to do and not a whole lot of time to just dally around. However I did go ahead and measure the subaru engine and the engine compartment on the Sammy, and I just don't think I'm going to put myself through all of that. The subaru engine was about 30 inches wide, which would force met to cut the inner fenders on both sides, and then there's still the little matter of the steering shaft being in the way. So, I guess I won't be going for it. That's really disappointing because I love the subaru engines. I think it would have been a good engine for the Sammy.

I would really like to drop the subaru engine in on the sammy tranny. I just don't know how I could get the two to mate up and I also haven't done any eyeballing or measuring yet to see if it would fit down in there, as wide as it is. I'll just have to start plotting and scheming as time allows and see what I come up with.

That might be, if a person were converting to independent suspension.

I'm about 4 hours West of you. If you want to ship it out here I'd be more than happy to take it over there for you, but by the time you pay for round-trip shipping, it may not be worth your while.

I've thought about the webber. There are so many places a person can go with mods that it's hard to figure out where to start. I want to do gears and lockers. I want to do bumpers and a winch. I'd love to do a 16 valve 1.6, or even an 8 valve. The 8 valve would be super simple and would help a good deal. The 16 valve engine would be the most desirable, but you pretty much have to get an entire donor vehicle, tear out the dash so that you can harvest the ECU & harness, then send the harness off for modification, modify the gas tank/fuel pump, modify the exhaust, buy the adaptors, and do a slight body lift. It just eats me up to think about having to go buy another engine that I don't know anything about, when I have this perfectly good subaru engine sitting here. And I like subaru engines.

I would think that the intermediate shaft would give you the latitude to elevate the engine a little bit to where the heads would be above the frame rails.

I've got this crazy idea that I can't get out of my head. I have an 89 Loyale fuel injected engine on a 3spd AT. I'm wondering what would be the best way drop that engine into my Samurai. The samurai has a divorced transfer case with an intermediate shaft, so I'm wondering if it wouldn't be possible to use a dual range subaru tranny and just use the rear output to power the sammy's transfer case. That would also give extra gear reduction if it would work. I just wonder what kind of longevity a person could expect to get from the tranny if used in this mode. If that's not a feasible idea, how difficult would it be to mate the subaru engine to the samurai drive train? Obviously there would be some necessary exhaust work, engine mount placement/fabrication, tranny mounting, and wiring work to be done, but I'm thinking this thing is do-able. Anyone have any thoughts?

Got my alternator put back in today and it's as good as new; all of the warning lights are back off. Thanks for the help in diagnosing the problem.

Thanks. That's a pretty good chart.

No, this car isn't a turbo, just plain ol' NA. I've noticed that the subaru (with 3spd AT) runs about the same RPM in D at interstate speeds as the Sammy does in 5th gear, though the soob doesn't bog down on hills like the Sammy. There are other more commonly used suzuki engines with easily obtained adapters, but I feel like my already owning this engine should help offset whatever additional expense would be associated with obtaining a zook engine and the necessary adapter materials. It may be just too much trouble, but I'm mulling it over.

Thanks. That sure beats the 70 hp that my 1.3 is making in the sammy now. I'll have to study up on it a bit. If it's not cost prohibitive, that might be a worthwhile project.

I'm not thoroughly versed in all of the nomenclature that I see used regarding subaru engines, so please forgive my ignorance. I am curious about what kind of HP and torque the engine from an 89/90 Loyale is making. I'm toying with the idea of transplanting one into my 88 Samurai, but I'm curious about what benefit(s) I might expect, aside from fuel injection. I know there would be some fabrication involved to make the necessary adaptations.

Well, off to the rebuild shop I went. I'm picking it up tomorrow. It costs a couple of dollars less to have them rebuild it ($53.**) here locally than it does to get one at auto zone, but even if it had cost a little more I usually like to get stuff like this done here locally if I have the time. I like to rebuild stuff like this myself when I can, but I got to reading through the shop manual about burning through this, that, and the other with a soldering iron and decided against it. :-\

I'm looking in the shop manual and see that there's an external voltage regulator listed here. Since my parts car is supposed to have a new alternator, but is having the same problem, I'm wondering if the regulator isn't the problem. The shop manual doesn't say where the voltage regulator is located. Anyone got any pointers? I can probably find it, but any help would be appreciated.

I don't see the remote starter having anything to do with it. Especially now, since I picked up the parts car and the exact same lights are burning on it. I've replaced internal voltage regulators and brushes on alternators before, but never any diodes. I'm kinda strapped for $$ for another few days, so I'm hoping that I can snag what I need to rebuild the electrical parts anyway. I'll just have to pull it out and crack it open and see what it looks like I guess.

Back to square 1. I picked up my parts car tonight and the same warning lights were on on it. So, what all do I need to get to properly overhaul this alternator, and where is the best place to get it?

I'm glad to hear that. I had installed a remote starter/keyless entry unit a few weeks ago and was concerned at first that it might have something to do with that. I've installed several of them and they've never given me any problem though. I'm in hopes that this thing can hold out until Wednesday so that my parts car will be home by then. Like I said, at road speed the gauge was looking good and everything was working fine, so maybe it'll hold out another day or two.

Cool, thanks.

So the alternator problem would cause the other lights to come on? I hope that's what it is. I'm picking up a parts car Tuesday.

I started experiencing a problem with our 90 Loyale Station Wagon with 3 spd AT this evening. The following warning lights were on as I drove it home: charge, AT fluid temp, rear lamp, brake fluid, and parking brake. We've been in the single digits here the last couple of nights. When I first got in the car as it was warming up, I noticed the lights on and the voltage was reading low on the alternator gauge (about 1/5). When I got it out on the road the gauge came up to where it normally stays (about 3/4). The warning lights got dimmer at interstate speeds and I noticed that they would flicker sometimes when I'd hit a bump. All the accessories seem to be working properly and there are no problems with it starting. Any ideas?

3200 RPM isn't high. Our 90 Loyale with 3spd Automatic runs about 4,000 @ 70mph and that doesn't worry me in the slightest. My samurai runs about 4,000 @ 70mph in 5th gear. I think the only thing I'd be worried about on your RPM is if you think it's slipping, in which case I'd be more concerned about the tranny than I would be the engine.

One way to test it to see if the resistor is the problem or if it's the switch is to unplug the switch and use a short piece of wire as a jumper. Find the hot wire and plug one end of the jumper into it and then plug the other end of the jumper into the other wires one at a time. If the fan works when you do that, and at different speeds, then the switch is the problem.