dptyrob

No, no blinking. It is on for a couple of seconds when you are starting it, but then it turns right off.

I saw that port you're talking about. Wasn't quite sure if it was OBD II or not, though I know some cars went ahead and switched to OBD II in 95. I'll have to see about getting someone to scan it for me then. Thanks.

Good evening all. I've got a couple of different questions that I'm hoping I can knock out with one thread. I recently acquired a 95 Legacy L with 4eat that has some transmission problems. The CEL is on right now as well. As I understand it there are 2 sets of plugs under the dash, one with green connectors and the other with black connectors, that I can connect to get a trouble code. I found the green set that had about 3 wires/pins, but I only found one black plug, which had 5 or 6 wires/pins. I found a couple of black wires hanging next to the black plug which both have the same color coding (black with gold ticks). They both have little blades/pins on them that appear to be the same size as the receptacles in the black plug, so I'm thinking maybe the plug just got shucked off somehow. (see picture at this link: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y180/dptyrob/Subaru/0702001924.jpg). Do these loose wires look like the ones that would plug in to get a diagnostic code, and if so, does anyone know where they would plug in on the remaining black plug? I don't want to go poking around in there trying things randomly for fear I'll fry something. Anyway, onto my next subject. The transmission was/is experiencing some lag engaging, sometimes doesn't downshift when you're trying to accelerate hard, and sometimes disengages for a few moments between gears when up shifting. I had read the tremendously long thread hear about flushing the tranny with synthetic fluid and adding a quart of trans-x, so I am prepared to give that a try, I just wanted to clean the filter screen out before I did that. This evening I dropped the pan and observed some extremely fine, copper-colored glitter-type residue in the transmission fluid: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y180/dptyrob/Subaru/0702001957.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y180/dptyrob/Subaru/0702001956a.jpg Of the larger fleck or two that you may observe in the picture, neither of these pieces will stick to a magnetic. Anyone have any thoughts or concerns about what we're seeing here. Also, what is the best way to clean the filter screen. I didn't really see or feel any problem through the intake opening, but I'd like to clean it while I've got it apart. Thanks

I picked up a nice clean 95 Legacy from a friend & co-worker. It is having the delayed engagement and shifting a little bit oddly, which is why it has been parked a couple of years now. I'm thinking about changing the filter, flushing the fluid, replacing it with a synthetic and adding the trans-x before going the transmission replacement route with a used transmission. I've seen an external filter mentioned several times throughout the thread, but don't see one listed for it on the advance auto parts web site, though I do see what appears to be an internal filter and pan gasket set. I'm guessing this means that they didn't have an external filter on the 95 model, but wanted to double check.

I put in another governor from a parts car I bought and it fixed the problem for a little while. Then it started doing it again. I just never did get around to taking the governor apart and fixing it before I got rid of the car.

Let me add a little to this post to help explain a little more of what we've encountered while working on this vehicle. This is my dad's wagon and we changed the plugs & wires right off the get-go. It appeared from the date printed on the wires that they were the original wires. I forget the mileage on the car, but I think it has around 100k miles. When we pulled the plugs, the plugs from #2 & #4 (driver side) had an ashey residue which the shop manual explains (if I recall correctly) as being caused by excessive temperature (among other things). The #1 & #3 plugs had more of a dark, sooty appearance. He has since consulted with several different shops around here and several have indicated that they believe the head gaskets are suspect. However, he went ahead and had one place perform a check on the coolant and the test indicated no exhaust gases present in the coolant. There has also been no loss of coolant and no steam or antifreeze smell from the exhaust (though the exhaust has smelled very rich). The mechanic that did the test also said that the 02 sensors indicated that the exhaust was reading very rich. My theory here is that this is EGR valve related. The egr valve is located on the driver side of the engine and appears to feed exlusively to the #4 and possibly #2 cylinder. He has tried to manually open the egr valve. It does move, but very little. I also instructed him to manually open it with the car at idle and see if the idle changes. He tried that and there was no change. If it is stuck open, then perhaps that would explain why the 2 plugs on #2 & #4 had the gray ashen appearance that they did, while the plugs on #1 & #3 had a little bit of a dark, sooty complexion. Anyone else have any input on this?

I explained to these folks that if they wanted to use this engine that they would probably need to forget the turbo. My biggest question right now is regarding how their ignition system/wiring and computer are going to mesh with that of the engine I'm selling. I guess I can hook them up with the computer if need be. From what I gather there shouldn't be any problems with everything bolting up. Unless I've misunderstood what I've read, some of the other posts I've seen on this board indicate that the lower compression ea82 engine can do quite well with the turbo and heads from an ea82t, but I couldn't see doing a half hearted job and swapping all of that over without going through everything really well; at least the heads. By the time that's all done, they'd be just as well to go through the rest of their old engineand overhaul it IMHO.

I may be getting things turned around here anyway. I'm not much on subaru lingo yet. My engine is apparently an ea82, so am I right about it being an 1800? (yeah, I learned that 1.8 ain't proper subaru grammar while searching. ).

I have a fuel injected ea82 engine from an 89 GL that I have listed for sale in a local paper. I just had a call on the engine from a woman needing an engine for her 87 Wagon with 1.6L turbo. She doesn't know a whole lot about her car and I know zilch about a car of her make/model, so I'm trying to find out if there's a way to install the engine I have in her car. I realize the turbo is probably not an option, but what about everything else? Will everything else bolt up, including accessories, intake, and ignition? Sorry I haven't searched yet. I'll start doing that now, but I'm hoping for a quick reply. Thanks.

I had one when I was in high school, that I bought new. It was a super little car. I wish I had kept it. I think it got like 45 mpg, and it would do 100 mph . It did really well in the snow in 4wd too. I wouldn't want to haul my family around in one for fear of being clobbered, but I wouldn't mind driving one around myself.

bump Nobody have any ideas? The only problem that I can think of that might even remotedly be connected is the fact that my struts are probably worn out. But this is an entirely new problem for me on any vehicle, and I just don't want to go blindly throwing money at the problem.

I had a left rear tire separate probably 1,500-2,000 miles ago (maybe less). At the time I attributed it to the fact that the front end had devoured the tread off of them and I had just rotated them to the rear. However, I put a couple of good tires from my parts car on the rear and the left rear tire separated again today. The tread on the tire looked just fine, so I'm at a bit of a loss. The bearings on the wheel don't have any abnormal play. Anyone have any ideas why it might be going this? I'm just not buying that it's a co-incident. Thanks.

One of the guys here was kind enough to hook me up with the illustrated, step-by-step instructions for cleaning and deburring the governor. I will definitely be doing that ASAP. Thanks.

Not only did it absolutely devour a set of new tires in 5,000 miles, but the steering feels loose and pulls to one side or the other when accelerating. The wear on the front tires was to the outer edges. I had the front end aligned whenever I had the new tires put on, and those guys are usually pretty good about letting me know about anything worn they come across while doing the alignment (like ball joints or tie rod ends). I didn't feel any abnormal play in the suspension while I was rotating the tires last week either. I've priced ball joints, inner & outer tie rod ends, and struts. Aside from replacing these items and doing an alignment, is there any other likely suspect here. Would replacing these items be overkill? The car has 12*,*** miles on the clock now.

I tried looking up a filter for the tranny on autozone's web site and they indicate it's not available. Does this tranny use a screen instead of a disposable filter?