dptyrob

No, no blinking. It is on for a couple of seconds when you are starting it, but then it turns right off.

I saw that port you're talking about. Wasn't quite sure if it was OBD II or not, though I know some cars went ahead and switched to OBD II in 95. I'll have to see about getting someone to scan it for me then. Thanks.

Good evening all. I've got a couple of different questions that I'm hoping I can knock out with one thread. I recently acquired a 95 Legacy L with 4eat that has some transmission problems. The CEL is on right now as well. As I understand it there are 2 sets of plugs under the dash, one with green connectors and the other with black connectors, that I can connect to get a trouble code. I found the green set that had about 3 wires/pins, but I only found one black plug, which had 5 or 6 wires/pins. I found a couple of black wires hanging next to the black plug which both have the same color coding (black with gold ticks). They both have little blades/pins on them that appear to be the same size as the receptacles in the black plug, so I'm thinking maybe the plug just got shucked off somehow. (see picture at this link: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y180/dptyrob/Subaru/0702001924.jpg). Do these loose wires look like the ones that would plug in to get a diagnostic code, and if so, does anyone know where they would plug in on the remaining black plug? I don't want to go poking around in there trying things randomly for fear I'll fry something. Anyway, onto my next subject. The transmission was/is experiencing some lag engaging, sometimes doesn't downshift when you're trying to accelerate hard, and sometimes disengages for a few moments between gears when up shifting. I had read the tremendously long thread hear about flushing the tranny with synthetic fluid and adding a quart of trans-x, so I am prepared to give that a try, I just wanted to clean the filter screen out before I did that. This evening I dropped the pan and observed some extremely fine, copper-colored glitter-type residue in the transmission fluid: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y180/dptyrob/Subaru/0702001957.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y180/dptyrob/Subaru/0702001956a.jpg Of the larger fleck or two that you may observe in the picture, neither of these pieces will stick to a magnetic. Anyone have any thoughts or concerns about what we're seeing here. Also, what is the best way to clean the filter screen. I didn't really see or feel any problem through the intake opening, but I'd like to clean it while I've got it apart. Thanks

I picked up a nice clean 95 Legacy from a friend & co-worker. It is having the delayed engagement and shifting a little bit oddly, which is why it has been parked a couple of years now. I'm thinking about changing the filter, flushing the fluid, replacing it with a synthetic and adding the trans-x before going the transmission replacement route with a used transmission. I've seen an external filter mentioned several times throughout the thread, but don't see one listed for it on the advance auto parts web site, though I do see what appears to be an internal filter and pan gasket set. I'm guessing this means that they didn't have an external filter on the 95 model, but wanted to double check.

I put in another governor from a parts car I bought and it fixed the problem for a little while. Then it started doing it again. I just never did get around to taking the governor apart and fixing it before I got rid of the car.

Let me add a little to this post to help explain a little more of what we've encountered while working on this vehicle. This is my dad's wagon and we changed the plugs & wires right off the get-go. It appeared from the date printed on the wires that they were the original wires. I forget the mileage on the car, but I think it has around 100k miles. When we pulled the plugs, the plugs from #2 & #4 (driver side) had an ashey residue which the shop manual explains (if I recall correctly) as being caused by excessive temperature (among other things). The #1 & #3 plugs had more of a dark, sooty appearance. He has since consulted with several different shops around here and several have indicated that they believe the head gaskets are suspect. However, he went ahead and had one place perform a check on the coolant and the test indicated no exhaust gases present in the coolant. There has also been no loss of coolant and no steam or antifreeze smell from the exhaust (though the exhaust has smelled very rich). The mechanic that did the test also said that the 02 sensors indicated that the exhaust was reading very rich. My theory here is that this is EGR valve related. The egr valve is located on the driver side of the engine and appears to feed exlusively to the #4 and possibly #2 cylinder. He has tried to manually open the egr valve. It does move, but very little. I also instructed him to manually open it with the car at idle and see if the idle changes. He tried that and there was no change. If it is stuck open, then perhaps that would explain why the 2 plugs on #2 & #4 had the gray ashen appearance that they did, while the plugs on #1 & #3 had a little bit of a dark, sooty complexion. Anyone else have any input on this?

I explained to these folks that if they wanted to use this engine that they would probably need to forget the turbo. My biggest question right now is regarding how their ignition system/wiring and computer are going to mesh with that of the engine I'm selling. I guess I can hook them up with the computer if need be. From what I gather there shouldn't be any problems with everything bolting up. Unless I've misunderstood what I've read, some of the other posts I've seen on this board indicate that the lower compression ea82 engine can do quite well with the turbo and heads from an ea82t, but I couldn't see doing a half hearted job and swapping all of that over without going through everything really well; at least the heads. By the time that's all done, they'd be just as well to go through the rest of their old engineand overhaul it IMHO.

I may be getting things turned around here anyway. I'm not much on subaru lingo yet. My engine is apparently an ea82, so am I right about it being an 1800? (yeah, I learned that 1.8 ain't proper subaru grammar while searching. ).

I have a fuel injected ea82 engine from an 89 GL that I have listed for sale in a local paper. I just had a call on the engine from a woman needing an engine for her 87 Wagon with 1.6L turbo. She doesn't know a whole lot about her car and I know zilch about a car of her make/model, so I'm trying to find out if there's a way to install the engine I have in her car. I realize the turbo is probably not an option, but what about everything else? Will everything else bolt up, including accessories, intake, and ignition? Sorry I haven't searched yet. I'll start doing that now, but I'm hoping for a quick reply. Thanks.

I had one when I was in high school, that I bought new. It was a super little car. I wish I had kept it. I think it got like 45 mpg, and it would do 100 mph . It did really well in the snow in 4wd too. I wouldn't want to haul my family around in one for fear of being clobbered, but I wouldn't mind driving one around myself.

bump Nobody have any ideas? The only problem that I can think of that might even remotedly be connected is the fact that my struts are probably worn out. But this is an entirely new problem for me on any vehicle, and I just don't want to go blindly throwing money at the problem.

I had a left rear tire separate probably 1,500-2,000 miles ago (maybe less). At the time I attributed it to the fact that the front end had devoured the tread off of them and I had just rotated them to the rear. However, I put a couple of good tires from my parts car on the rear and the left rear tire separated again today. The tread on the tire looked just fine, so I'm at a bit of a loss. The bearings on the wheel don't have any abnormal play. Anyone have any ideas why it might be going this? I'm just not buying that it's a co-incident. Thanks.

One of the guys here was kind enough to hook me up with the illustrated, step-by-step instructions for cleaning and deburring the governor. I will definitely be doing that ASAP. Thanks.

Not only did it absolutely devour a set of new tires in 5,000 miles, but the steering feels loose and pulls to one side or the other when accelerating. The wear on the front tires was to the outer edges. I had the front end aligned whenever I had the new tires put on, and those guys are usually pretty good about letting me know about anything worn they come across while doing the alignment (like ball joints or tie rod ends). I didn't feel any abnormal play in the suspension while I was rotating the tires last week either. I've priced ball joints, inner & outer tie rod ends, and struts. Aside from replacing these items and doing an alignment, is there any other likely suspect here. Would replacing these items be overkill? The car has 12*,*** miles on the clock now.

I tried looking up a filter for the tranny on autozone's web site and they indicate it's not available. Does this tranny use a screen instead of a disposable filter?

k, thanks. I'll give it a shot.

I guess I should have mentioned that. Tranny fluid level is fine, and the fluid looks good and doesn't smell burned.

If it's been parked a while, the tranny doesn't want to kick right in. It will sit there and slip for 15-30 seconds before kicking in and going, forward or back. This tranny was professionally rebuilt a little over a year ago while the guy I bought it from owned it. What kind of problem am I most likely looking at? It runs and shifts great the rest of the time, and it doesn't do it at all if you start the car and let it warm up before you get in it to go somewhere. Thanks.

I can't say 100% for sure, but I'm going to venture a guess here and say the fuse block.

Neat. So if a person was to crack a birfield on their sammy, then they could just take one off of a EA82T? That could save some $$$$. They change out more like a CV joint than a u-joint, don't they? I think the FSM even describes the birfield as a CV joint, and that's exactly what they reminded me of when I was repacking mine here a couple of months ago.

Thanks for all of the info. I'll have to sit down and reread this stuff and think about it real hard, and probably go out and pull the stereo to look at the wiring so I can get a good firm grip on what I'm seeing in that other thread. I didn't see a black connector behind the radio like the one mentioned in the other thread. There was a white connector and then two other individual connectors (one of which was not used and the other being the battery power). The wiring adapter that I hooked up to the pigtail for the new radio had individual grounds for the speaker wires, as did the white plug from the dash harness (I'm pretty sure), so if they went to a common ground it's going to be somewhere further back in the wiring. I've got the dash and interior molding out of this parts car, so maybe that will help me find what I'm looking for. I know it was a big help on figuring out what to do about the antenna wire. I noticed that was an issue for the guy that posted the other thread too; the antenna wire was way too short to make it to the aftermarket radio. Once I saw how it was routed (in the parts car), I ripped it out from under the floorboard and rerouted it under the dash. Had more than enough length then.

This one is a wagon. Actually, come to think of it, I haven't pulled the doors apart on it to see if they're wired. I have a parts car that is a sedan and the doors on it weren't pre-wired for speakers, probably because they would go under the back deck on it. Gosh I can be brain-dead sometimes. I'll check it out though. Thanks.

I just replaced the stereo and speakers in my wife's 90 Loyale Wagon and noticed that the wiring harness at the dash has wiring for rear speakers. I have looked in the rear doors and observed that they have the hole cut out for speakers, but the doors themselves don't appear to be wired for speakers (I was kinda hopeful that they would be because I found out that the front doors were wired for power mirrors and installed a pair). Since there is obviously wiring for rear speakers in the dash harness, where would be a good place to hook into them? Any ideas?

Try popping the ignition switch with a slide hammer or drill it out so that you can unlock the wheel and turn it to get to those screws.

I pulled the passenge side mirror off of my parts car (89 Loyale sedan) today to put on my wife's wagon (90 Loyale). It is a power mirror whereas hers were manual, but her passenger side mirror was broken so I figured what the heck. I had considered trying to install power mirrors on her car, but I figured the wiring would be a nightmare. Imagine my surprise when I pulled her mirror off and found a plug for a power mirror just hanging there. Not being one to get my hopes up for no good reason, I figured that there was no way that there would be one in the dash behind the cutout for the switch, and if there was one there was no way it would actually work. I pulled the cutout and sure enough there was the plug for the switch. Plugged in the switch and turned on the ignition and viola, power windows. Naturally I went ahead and did the driver's side too. Makes you wonder why subaru was too tight to go ahead and throw in 2 power mirrors and a switch in the first place. I think the parts car has power locks too, but if it does, they don't work at present. Anyone know if the power locks were standard on cars with power windows or not? There is some wiring that runs to a box below the lock mechanisms on the doors and a little rod that runs from that box up to the lock, but I don't know if those are actuators or just a switch to let you know the doors are unlocked. It does let you know if the doors are unlocked, whether they're power locks or not.