idosubaru

The process of installing the bearings on the front hubs took some time and lots of impacting. Through the process and vibrations the grease was contaminated and the bearing cages fell out (multiple times). Seems like I should be able to simply clean everything up, regrease and put them back in right? Synthetic high temperature wheel bearing grease?

it looked really close, but there was like an outer black trim piece and it's surrounded by other stuff - hard to tell. weird. his is a 1998 Impreza (01/97 manufacture date). thanks mike. i'll see if he wants a used set. how much for the set?

the replacement part he bought does have this pin - it is identical to the part in the picture - so does that mean the replacement part won't work?

got it, awesome.

Wow, that is awesome. unbelievable. that is awesome. i'm an engineer so i've done autocad/CATIA and find this fascinating, i had no idea this was possible or available. well done! i doubt it would be a large number. it was attempted once and we had a committed (even partially paid) group at Subaruxt.com so you could investigate how many...5 maybe. problem is shipping and folks wanting different stuff. the XT/XT6's have the steering column surround and also the stereo surround. they weren't a large production model and are now very old, but would definitely sell a few immediately.

not the cap, i was told the dealer doesn't sell the cap you have to buy the entire fuel pump assembly to get it. so i got a used cap thanks to a kind forum member. if you find they do sell the cap, please post the part number. i posted the part number for the oring in another thread, i'm sure you could look it up online and find the dimensions to get at another store or simply match it up in another store. the oring i bought seemed maybe a hair thinner than the original but i wasn't sure if the original was even an original size so to speak since it was obviously stretched waaaay bigger than it should have been. i think now though that only happens when they blow out under all the fuel pressure and squeezing through that tight place between the cap and where it seats. i installed a new oring under a broken cap hoping it would hold and it only lasted 200 miles. the 200 mile oring was EXACTLY like the original one that failed but was 150,000 miles and 10 years old - stretched A LOT. a forum member sent me an original oring and cap out of a pump and the original oring looks fine, not stretched. it is a bit thicker than the oring i used. i was even thinking maybe the thinner oring would put less strain on the cap tabs and less likely of breaking again...but that's probably a stretch. i've driven it a few weeks now with no issues including some traveling/road trips.

actually mine came off easily with a 3 jaw puller as well. thanks. i disassembled everything and never removed the circlip inside the knuckle...how did that happen? everything came apart rather easily actually, i assumed that clip should have held something in place? i have that same kit to reassemble the new bearings...though it looks like my knuckle is trashed inside. pic here:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1117595#post1117595

Disassembled my first front wheel bearing today on my daily driver 03 OB H6 Sedan and the surface inside the knuckle look like this. I assume this means the knuckle is trash? I placed an orange box around the marred surface in one of the photos. That sounds about right since I have no spare knuckles for this Weird this thing didn't exhibit any wheel bearing signs at all - excellent gas mileage (27mpg) and drove great. Not until I pulled the axle for a CV boot did I notice a lumpy-ness to the wheel bearings so I decided to do this.

doing my first wheel bearing job, i've always swapped hubs in the past. as usual the outer bearing cone came out with the hub. what kind of set up other than a press do i need to remove that?

is it this white thing in the orange box?

picture below. we're not talking about drilling the bolts, i've done that before. John has removed the lock cylinder before, it will slide out without drilling those bolts out.

following you on the other thread, thanks.

John - i don't see this pin - any hints? drivers seat side of ignition or firewall side? i saw a round/brass-ish colored pin thing but pressing it didn't do anything, i'll push it while pulling some more.

got the trim pulled - i don't see any pin or anything to push? the lock cylinder is up against the steering column...don't see any access behind it?

How to pull a 96 Impreza lock cylinder from the ignition/steering column. He can turn the ignition with a screw driver, but not the key....will that be enough to turn it and get the cylinder to release from the vehicle as well? found this one: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=97295&highlight=lock+cylinder how likely am i to be able to get something in this pin hole and get this out? it's a friends car and i'm hoping to help him out when we get together.

i would post in the parts wanted forum that you need one. many folks have blocks sitting around our garages and don't need the dowel pins. i do but no time at the moment.

easy. two 12mm bolts for lower rear seat cushion 4 phillips head screws 10 8mm bolts two hoses and an electrical connector and on my 2003, even in the rust belt, were rust free!

i have a thread with some information about this issue. i got orings at Advance Auto Parts that work. i tried to reuse my cap, it lasted about 200 miles even with a new oring. i got a new cap for it and it was all good, with another new oring. even the new oring was blown out of shape, i presume by all the fuel and pressure *pushing* it out the gap? i have a picture of the metal caps in the parts wanted forum and part numbers posted in another thread for the orings at Advance Auto Parts.

nice, you've seen them this bad before? i've rarely removed them so i don't have much experience, i think this may even be the first failure (if it is one) i've personally seen. indeed, you know it! crack head, that's a good suggestion. i don't know if i've ever done it to an EJ - good access point for EJ IAC's?

it's only a 10 minute job...sort of - nothing to remove by the 10mm bolt which i would easily reach on the EJ18 with a ratchet. bolt came out easily...then the debacle started. We will title this mini-series: "How a 10 minute job becomes one hour..." the sensor was seized in the bore. pulled alternator and stuff for easy access. ended up cracking the plastic top/connector piece to bits over time and it all came off and the rest was still in the bore. i had to chisel all the guts out, that wasn't too bad. it was amazing - about a 6 foot bushy strand of cooper wiring just pulled out, it was crazy watching all that unfurl from this tiny part. then the very thin walled shell was still stuck in the bore - almost "one" with the aluminum bore. many small blows with a screw driver and hammer and working my way around the lip i created finally got the top rim folded away from the bore....ah...finally.... it was so seized though i had to keep going and chisel all the thin walled metal away from the bore for it to budge from top to bottom. i thought getting it started would be enough to grab it with pliers, etc. then by the time that was done the metal was so deformed it would not come out the bore from the top. so i had to keep striking the metal bit with a screw driver, slowly folding it up into a bit small enough that it fell out the bottom. then i had to pick all the bits out of the timing belt crevices from all the chiseling, etc. anyway - with any luck (since i didn't have any tonight!!!) this fixed the stalling when coming to a stop issue.

these cars don't do well with anything other than stock NGK plugs and Subaru wires. as long as the wires were higher quality stuff they should be fine but in some ways there's no way to tell unless you get OEM. i have seen wires right out of the box cause cylinder misfires that made the vehicle nearly undrivable - it's an EJ engine thing. older subaru's would run on coat hangers for spark plug wires. LOL the igniter could be bad as well. (which cylinder misfire codes are you currently gettins - which numbers?) i had a cylinder misfire that went away when i swapped an entire intake manifold so i assume that means it was fuel supply/injector related.

wow, nice hit. i would have the block deck tested before the heads are pressure tested as the heads are likely to be fine. EJ heads rarely crack. someone on another forum recently had coolant leaking through a porous portion of the head casting - visible when the exhaust manifold was removed....i would think this is a very rare failure and not likely but maybe worth a check if you got something strange going on? do you know how badly it was previously overheated when you owned it? or if the headgsaket were every replaced before you owned it (which would almost confirm a prior overheating condition)?

yep, drain plug underneath just as you suspected. pull plug, drain gear oil, refill through the dipstick tube up top. just like engine oil basically but no filter.

great, thanks porc! those are easy enough to swap out and i have a few extra lying around. you're fairly certain it was for the crank and not the cam sensor? i'll start there.

1996 Legacy LSi. EJ18 and FWD (both swapped), been that way for 60,000 miles. runs and drives fine. cuts out sometimes right as i'm coming to a stop. it's only done it a few times and starts right back up immediately. it never cuts out while cruising or accelerating so it hasn't been that big of an issue. crank/cam sensor?