thesubeguy

even after removing the 4 bolts on the fan itself there wasn't enough clearance to remove the radiator without damaging it. now its just a straight lift in and out no hitting anywhere

fan wouldn't come off without damaging the radiator in some way. wjm why wouldn't you do it again?

in my sube i've got a twin core that every single time i remove it or put it in, it somehow seems to bend fins and all around mess it up. finally fed up with it i decided to cut into the radiator support from one side of the radiator to the other. worked incredibly well and now its a straight shot in and out with no hitting anywhere. definately recommend doing this for anyone with a twin core or if they just don't like fighting with the fan anymore. i'll get pics soon

i was drivin around like that for awhile until i got my 2.5 in catback. loved the looks of people next to me wondering what the hell it was

the breather hoses are pretty hard and cracked in a couple places. would a slight hole be causing some of these problems? also pulled the codes and while running it was saying code 33 (coolant temp sensor or switch) and code 12 (starter switch off)

gota 86 gl-10 turbo wagon that i just swapped my rx engine into. here's the problem... at first i get it to start up fine, cranks, starts, runs. take it for a test drive and a couple minutes into the drive it suddenly looses power and won't go above 3 grand, if it makes it that high while bogging out. this is all after it was sitting and warming up. at first once it's warmed up i can also get it to sit at 4 grand in the garage with no problem for a couple minutes. when it dies on the test run its incredibly hard to start and shoots blue smoke out, but when running it doesn't shoot smoke out. just replaced the pcv valve as well

Was driving on lake city way and at the subaru repair place there was a sexy red loyale turbo wagon with a hood scoop, 22b vents and a front air damn. had to pull over and get a closer look. good lookin car

found out what the problem was on this. the fuseable link box was all messed up and somehow was conduction electricy everywhere even through some plastic. swapped in another box that i had sitting around from my rx, turned key and fired right up. i think the connections were all corroded inside the gl-10 box.

getting voltage with link out. alternator is near brand new bosch

no i'm getting 12v with the link out. isn't it completing a circuit with it in, but with it out there should be no current running through it. it's going across where the link would be.

but if the links are out why am i getting voltage

where the black/white wire coming from the fuseable link box goes to

so is the big fat white wire that goes from the fuseable links to the alternator? or do i have somethin hooked up wrong...

Crazy idea but i thought these things were supposed to cut the flow of electricity through those wires, but when i hook up the battery i get a 12v reading from the red connection, about a 2v from the inner green one, and a little less than 1v from the other green and black ones. Yes i don't have the links in place when i'm doing this. Is this supposed to happen or do i have a connection somewhere in the circuitry... HELP Andrew