BCSubguy

This newsletter should say it all. http://www.lubetrak.com/newsletter/Feb27HTML.html have fun! J.W.

What type of bearings are in there? If you have the deep groove roller type I've had success beating them out with a drift. Be carefull not to score the inner sleeve of the steering knuckle. Installation with a 52oz. dead blow and possibly a large socket at the end to seat it has worked with me. Make sure the bearings are going in staight. Dont forget to throw in a little grease and install your spacer - pain when you forget! If you have the tapered roller cartridge they can be more intensive. On my '92 loyale I had to weld a bead around the inside of the outer race of the bearing sleeve. Once it cooled it drifted out easily. I had access to a shop press for installation, so I used it. Didn't try dead blow method. It may work but I thought there would be more chance of getting it cocked in the knuckle. I'd be interested to hear of other methods. Hope this helps.

have you noticed any play in your ball joint?

My '92 Loyale had similar probs. When it was younger it would rev. to approx. 2000rpm. after 7mins. it would kick down. Recently it wouldn't kick down automatically. I cleaned air control valve rump roast'ly and replaced the coolant temp. sensor. Now she's back to normal...2000rpm on cold start-kicks down after 7mins. to 700. The bad news was no subs. in my area junkers had em. I had to buy new .(dealer $100.00 Cdn.) good luck.

iol is how we spell OIL in Canada

I'd clean it up and run it to determine how much iol you are leaking and from where. Start with cam cover seals and "o" ring. They are cheap and easy. Even if it's your H.G.,do a comp. test to verify and if you are any way mech. inclined and have the time/tools, do it yourself. The pass. side is easier access than D.S., and no disty. Between the cash you save and the quality time spent with your sub. it will be an awsome experience. Don't forget...youre not in it alone! J.W.

The rocker switch mounted on top of the steering column...It activates markers.

Yup, warm engine, throttle open. Drove it to town and back-(120km) no probs. Last 30 comes with a 1000ft. elevation gain. I think it'll be o.k. Thanks all for the input. Cheers:drunk:

Checked a couple more things on the '92 loyale- 1- burped out lotsa air from cooling system....had no further sounds of waves crashing through heater core! 2- cleaned up air control valve 3- checked and adjusted throttle valve 4- metered coolant temp. sensor....first tests showed resistance higher with heat (no where near spec.) subsequent tests now show O.L. - got a new one on order. This all brought the idle down to approx. 1200 rpm., the temps wouldn't rise above half and for a joyous moment the cel was extinquished! ( I thought maybe the bulb had finally burnt out!) - thankfully it re-lit! Damn code 34. All cylinders show 90 psi on first crank, then after another 4 or five cranks get up to #1- 90....125 ,#2- 90....145 ,#3- 90....130 ,#4- 90....135. A couple drops of oil brings them all consistantly up #1- 100....180, #2- 120....240, #3- 120....200, #4- 120....175. The oil test wasn't totally scientific as I didn't have a good oil dropper- some may have gotten more than others! (#2!!) I guess the question is how low can you go? What are typical comp. values on these? It sounds as good as it ever has...took it for a small test drive- temps seemed o.k. If the new temp sensor drops my revs down to a more acceptable range I may just leave it till it shows more signs of age...then do a major overhaul? Anyone with any thoughts on this?

I'm outside Kamloops...It's gotta be lookin like spring on the Island! Too bad about your ski season though. Didn't get a ton done yesterday- My 3 yr. old helper keeps handing the wrong wrenches! Changed out the o2 sensor (just because I had one) that killed the 32 code (still showing 34 even though I can see the egr valve working under acceleration- changed sol. last summer) The w.p was changed in the spring-thermostat too (oem). Did the rad the previous summer. Just running at idle (1500rpm) the water temp raises to about 2/3 of the gauge. upper hose is screamin hot, lower isn't too bad. rad itself seems cool to the touch.Cooling fan comes on at about halfway point of gauge. When I disconnect the coolant temp. thermosensor the rpms drop to approx. 600rpm.and code 21 appears. I wonder if a malfunctioning temp sensor would trigger the fault. I'd just change it out(and may still) but it's another one of those $100.00 parts that may or may not help. (those things are as rare as hens teeth at the local junkers!- so are most sub. parts though)Next step for me is clean the air control valve, recheck throttle positioning valve and make sure timing is right.Check for vaccuum ,then I'll do comp. test. I've determined valve leaks in the past by running my comp.test and then adding a bit of oil in the spark plug ports. Compression didn't rise with oil= valves. If comp. does rise I've been told probably rings. How would blown gasket show up? No rise in pressure? I just wanna thank all youze kooks for reading about MY challenges and offering up any insights - I'm looking forward to sharing any of my insights as needed! Cheers from the sunny Interior!

A while back I thought I had a sludge prob. causing high temps. Had a lube joint flush and fill. In hindsight it may of been a waste of cash though. I recall the tech. commenting on all the air in the system, and the other tech. saying " ah those subarus just do that. The gurgling didn't subside,and the high temps didnt really change. for a while I thought it was more of an over-fill issue. If I maintained an empty recovery vessel when it was cool, the temps stayed in the acceptable range. (bottom third of guage). Well it looks like it could be a good day for sub. repair. By the way, I just have to get the rad filler higher than the heater core right?

Thanks for the input.... No real noticeable smoke - or other indicators actually. In the past I've seen glycol dripping from the exhaust combined with burning a-freeze smell (that time it was a head gasket). It hasn't been going through much a-freeze. sounds like a comp. test is in order though. Just had a head off last summer (burnt valve). Oh well!!!

I've been enjoying the info. in among all the threads. Great to know that there is a whole country full of us Soob. lovers! My '92 loyale (spfi, 1.8l, non-turbo, 4wd.,5spd) has been seeing some heavy highway mileage lately. She is up to 390,000 km., and is calling out for help. The running temps have been high and it wont idle below 1500rpm. the cel has been on for a year or so (I replaced the egr sol.- no luck clearing the cel). I believe that I've got a few things going on, and hope they are all playing into the temp. thang. My O2 sensor is on the cel now, I'm about to change it out. My coolant recovery vessel is looking a little greasy, maybe time for a flush. I read that sometimes the air control valve gets gummed, and possibly the coolant thermosensor is hooped. (It used to kick down from 2300-700 after 7mins.) As well I have air trapped in heater core that I must purge out. My questions are: - any other procedures for purging cooling system other than parking on a hill? - is the idle factory set? aside from tweeking the tps at the throttlebody I cant seem to find a way. - what is the creamy crap that tends to appear inside my oil fill tube? Other than that, she's a honey! Any tips/suggestions anyone might have would be welcomed!-Thanks GOTTA GET HER TO 500!!!