Tbird Man

I just finished putting a 99 OB 4EAT in my 99 GT, everything seems to work ok (except for a front seal that leaks like a sive, i know, i should have replaced it) but it seems to be slow to shift and hang in 3rd. when it does shift to 4th even a small amount of throttle will make it downshift. Initally i assumed it was from low fluid since it is a PITA to keep the level up with a leaky input shaft seal, but i wondered if it could be an imcompatibility with the TCU? the reason i say this is I recall hearing somewhere (maybe the service manual?) that the OB torque converter has a higher stall speed then the GT which if i understand AT's correctly would throw the shift points off, no? if so, since I have to pull the trans to change the main seal ill put the GT TqC back on.

well, i got lucky, the local JY has a forest green 96 impreza OB. its still the L hood but its the right color. The guy says a hood, fender, headlight, and corner will run me about 200.

Ok, so I hit a deer pretty hard tonight in my 95 impreza L. I am lookin at a new hood, fender, corner marker and headlight. What I was wondering was two things. one what should i expect to pay for these parts, and two is there a significant difference if I was to get the parts to convert to a RS/OBS style hood? obviously i would have to spend more on things like another headlight and a later model grill, but I am trying to see some opertunity in this misfortune.

Not sure about that car, but WRC cars don't have any kind of BOV, the sound you hear is actually turbo surge, the turbo actually reverses itself sometimes IIRC. its fine if you plan to rebuild the turbo after every rally, but not goot for a normal car. really the whole BOV sound thing is for show. if you have a properly engineered and tuned BOV or recirc. you won't hear it. if you hear it it is too restrictive and won't vent fast enough. reminds me of the fake "BOV" things people were putting on N/A cars, just to get the sound...lame(the fake ones at least).

Not in the States, and i don't believe Canada got it either.

My Evildar is going off, I have detected weapons grade Evil.

Open Deck: Semi Closed EJ25t: Closed Deck:

go turbo, the EJ22T is a closed deck motor, so you can push alot more power through it. its the block crawford performance bases their R series motors on. and stock it'll put out 160 and about 180ish without too much trouble. throw on some V4 WRX heads, and AEM and you have the 22B motor, 280hp. the ej22t is probibly the best motor subie made, sooo much potential.

Well, with my discount i am going to try to upgrade wherever possible. PS pump is probibly out, 80 bucks is a bit out of my budget with other things factored in.

I don't have that kind of money, and i work at Advance auto parts, so i get a discount on parts. also, do you guys see any benifit to putting bosh platnium +2s in?

I am sure my EJ18 is about due for a bit of an overhaul (200k on the car, probibly close to 100k on the engine with fairly long time between oil changes) im going to do an oil change, plugs and wires, Seafoam, and maybe timeing belt (can't remember if the EJ18 is interference or not?) also considering water/oil pump, tranny flush, vairous leaking engine gaskets, and PS pump, (JY one we got leaks like a sieve). anyting else i might consider? also any recomendations on the oil i should put in, thicker full syn. maybe?

how is the EA tranny setup anyway? is it a shaft in a shaft, like the EJ manuals, or dose it have an ofset gear driven shaft to the front like the EJ autos? EDTI: and their going for the 4.44 AND D/R so the WRX driveline wouldent do the trick.

I think it would be easier to have a custom gearset made, wouldn't it? I also thought that a setup similer to monster trucks might help, using planetaries in the hubs or maybe between the inside CV joints and the tranny.

for me? 95ish 2dr imp, 3in suspension, 8in T-case(atlas anyone?), custom tube bumper, rad and redtop relocated to the trunk, 4eat with a machined solid replacement for the clutch pack, 4.44 diffs (maybe a lincon locked rear) and 33in tires, snorkel and ECU/TCU relocated to the dash, crawford perf. 2.65 supercharged with custom headers and exaust, full exo cage. painted WRC blue.

In that case the bumper issue could be setteled with bolt on removeable lower bumpers, though the frame issue could be tricky (might be albe to get away with it being unibody?) also removeable fenders could be done as well.