sajara

Thanks, all, I really appreciate the input. Based on Scooby's analysis, I will conclude that I'm getting a fair deal. Too bad my roadtrip will have to be sans A/C since the part won't come in until next week, but hell, it's upper Michigan, so there will probably be plenty of A/C outside. Again, thanks to everyone for walking me through this & shooting me your ideas -- this forum is so very valuable!! --Natalie

Just got a call from the shop. They have identified the revolution sensor on the compressor as the culprit, stating that it keeps going out. Cost of replacement part and labor is $296. Does the diagnosis sound logical? And the cost reasonable? Thanks for any input!! --Natalie

Nipper -- well, good to know! I guess what else would I expect for $29.99?? Ferret -- thanks for the cite. After reading that whole thread, I think I may decline any work on the system if the shop's first plan doesn't involve the relay! Dropped it off this a.m.; will keep you posted.

Well, when we first starting trying to figure this out, we checked the pressure by putting a gauge on as part of one of those DIY a/c rechargers from a parts store, although I couldn't tell you exactly what the pressures were. I know everything was low, and we filled it to the proper amounts. Today we went to check again so that I could report on the pressure, but it started making a really weird sound and the compressor cycled on & off like maniacally fast. Since I'm headed on a road trip Wednesday, I dumped it off at a local shop. They called & said it was fixed; we had overfilled it this morning so the pressure was too high, so they normalized that. Also said there was a bad valve (Stracher valve? something like that), so they replaced that. I picked it up, drove it around, and. . .same problem. I took it back in & they looked some more. Now they believe they have identified a loss of power to the relay. It was about closing time, so I'm to bring it in again tomorrow morning to see if they can determine the cause of the power loss. I will keep you posted, and thanks for all the ideas & guidance!

Great -- I will follow those suggestions. Where is the pressure switch located on a 2002 LLB Outback? Thanks!!

Hi all, I've read a zillion A/C posts on here, but didn't find anything quite like my situation. My A/C goes off (starts blowing warm air) about five minutes or so into a car ride. If I switch the engine all the way off and restart the car, the A/C begins working again, but only for about five minutes or so. When this issue first arose, the A/C lasted a lot longer before going out; now we are down to a few minutes. I recharged the A/C, and the freon was really low, but that did not stop the problem. Any ideas? Thanks!! --Natalie 2002 LLB Outback

so it is absolutely imperative that one use premium in a 2002 LLB outback? when i bought the car from its previous owner, she told me that she used regular octane without realizing the car called for premium, and that according to the dealer, she mucked up something or other. . .sparks? injectors? i can't remember. anyway, i've read conflicting things; some sources say always use premium if the manufacturer says, other sources say only 10% of cars truly need it, still others say you can alternate. i'd like to know for sure because premium here in lovely lansing, michigan, just shot up to $3.95 today, which is really insanely ridiculous and a killer on the wallet.

so it is absolutely imperative that one use premium in a 2002 LLB outback? when i bought the car from its previous owner, she told me that she used regular octane without realizing the car called for premium, and that according to the dealer, she mucked up something or other. . .sparks? injectors? i can't remember. anyway, i've read conflicting things; some sources say always use premium if the manufacturer says, other sources say only 10% of cars truly need it, still others say you can alternate. i'd like to know for sure because premium here in lovely lansing, michigan, just shot up to $3.95 today. EDITED: oops, sorry - didn't realize i was in older gen forum. will put post in new gen (but don't know how to delete or move.)

The steering wheel wasn't locked. I actually drove around, stopped, turned it off, and tried to get key out multiple times, but it was still locked in there. (Then hub had to do the same thing multiple times again, thinking I must be a dummy. Heheh.) After disconnecting the battery was of no help, I got back in & shifted into reverse, moved the car a bit, into drive, moved the car a bit, repeated this several times, and then all of a sudden the key released. Mystery to me, but I'm hoping it won't happen again at another inopportune time!!

i see i'm not the first to have this problem. i was wondering whether anyone knows if the solution that's been posted, namely: if your key is stuck, simply remove the screws from the bottom of the plastic shroud around the column, then you'll see a white box on the front of the ignition. This is the solonoid. there are two access holes (square shaped) to see inside the white box, located perpandicular to each other. One has a small metal tab barely sticking out of it, and the other doesnt. it has a circular lock washer thingie in there you can see. if you put a screwdriver and PUSH against the metal circular washer thing, it should make a slight click and move about 1/32 of an inch. that will lock the shift lock solonoid in the open position and basically keep it there forever, until the shift lock system tells it to lock again. you can either unplug this solonoid, or you can remove the shift lock controller (if you still have your auto, keep the controller in place, but unplug the solonoid from the bottom... its a two wire FLAT FLAT FLAT plug. is a solution for my model & year. 2002 OB LLB. i would also note that my security light is flashing in a sequence that apparently means it's in the "valet mode," which i didn't know anything about until i just read the manual. so i don't know whether that has anything to do w/it or is important or what. thanks!!!

new question followed the directions lined up the marks on crank and both cams but not sure if we have top dead center right tried to start but back fired should we reset everything and turn the crank 360 or how is thwe best way to make sure we are lined up properly

Thanks all -- we just got a new one. Sorry I didn't see the above post before buying one from the dealership. :-| Thanks, everyone, for all the help w/the questions we had.

In process of finishing up timing belt change & have run into a problem: the rubber gasket on the timing belt cover is totally too big & we cannot figure out why -- wondering if the wrong one was installed originally or what. There is no way to line up the gasket with the bolt holes -- there's at least a 1/2" of slack. Are we doing something wrong here?

Okay, we're nearly done. But new problem: the rubber gasket on the timing belt cover is totally too big & we cannot figure out why -- wondering if the wrong one was installed originally or what. There is no way to line up the gasket with the bolt holes -- there's at least a 1/2" of slack. Are we doing something wrong here? (Also posting as new thread; sorry for the repeat.)

Thanks so much for your info. I have a couple more questions. First, I believe the screws/bolts are loose on the oil pump. Is it the two bolts that point down? (Anyone know where a diagram of this may be?) And what is the fix for that? Are there o-rings or what? Also, we're replacing the water pump; should we use any silicone or gasket sealer on any of the screws? Thanks!!

Right now we just got to the point of viewing the existing timing belt & noticed how it's off-track. We haven't removed it; we are wondering whether we can just realign the belt at this point or should we go ahead & replace it? FYI, it's never been replaced & the car has 120k miles. . .probably a stupid question re: should we just go ahead & replace. . . We will check the bearing on idler 2. Thanks!

Howdy, In the process of replacing timing belt b/c of a weird noise. Can see now that the belt is about 1/8" off the track at "idler" & "idler 2" (as denoted in this picture at page 5 of this PDF file: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf). The belt is on the track the rest of the way around the course. Does anyone have any idea what would cause the belt to go off track at that position? Thanks! Natalie 1996 Outback 2.2L

Hrm -- I should have been more specific. Do you have to take the door apart to get to the tracks? I'm not sure where they are. Thanks!!

I have the same problem on my 2002 LLBean Outback, and I had it on my 1996 Outback as well. How do you lube the regulator tracks or the rubber seal?

Turns out it should be an easy fix. Dealer called back & said that in most instances, the plastic piece with the knob has become unthreaded from the metal rod inside the seat, and that the metal rod might be slightly off-center. He told me to grab hold of the grommet on the seat and move it around, and that should put the rod back into place. Apparently, I should easily be able to poke around in the hole for the rod and thread the plastic piece back on. Price for fix: $0. Yippee!!

Hello, I am thinking of purchasing a neighbor's 2002 OBW LL Bean to replace my 1996 OBW, but it has a slight problem. One of the rear seats can't be brought forward b/c that little knob seat release thing (what do you call those??) is broken. When you pull on the knob, the whole little knob & stick come right out of the hole. I can't tell if the stick has been sheared off somehow or what. Does anyone know what it would take to get that fixed? I need a bargaining position for sales price. I tried calling a dealership, but I had to leave a message, and who knows when they'll get back to me. Thanks!