Gnuman

When I removed the shift linkage from a 98 Legacy 5MT, there were two roll pins that held the linkage onto the shaft at the tranny side. One is about the same diameter as the ones that hold the front halfshafts to the tranny, and the other was around that. You take out the small one, then the larger one can be gotten out easier. Installation is the reverse of removal, of course. with this method, there is no drilling and the pins are reusable.

There are no keyways in the Subaru driveshaft. if you have them, it may be that you do not have the correct shaft. You may want to go to a Pick and Pull and grab one from a similar car to yours

Sadly, it is not. Bonded to the glass during manufacture. :mad:

YOu should not need to remove the headliner. At least in earlier models (92), there are two plastic strips (one on either side) that cover the nuts that hold the glass to the carriage assy. remove these strips, loosen the nuts a bit and adjust for a better fit. Tighten the nuts and replace (reinstall) the plastic. You are done.

There is a stabiliser that bolts to the rear of the hole that the shifter goes through. If that is loose (or not attached at all), the shifter will be able to move to the sides very easily, even while in gear. It is actually moving at the rear in that case. Also check the connection of the stabiliser to the tranny. That will do the same thing, only it will be moving in the front.

Have you had any work done to the transmission or the shaft recently? Check that the shaft sits in a straight line from the tranny to the rear diff. If the center berring is mounted in upside-down, it will cause the shaft to not be in a direct line, causing stress at the center berring, which will cause a thump thump effect when accelerating, turning, or under loads. This is just one more thing that could be a simpel fix to get your car back on the road.

Thanks, but I can do the same here. I'll wait for a suitable donor to arrive in the shop, or visit PAP somewhere around here, if the former takes too long for me. Thanks for looking!

Powered by a fusion reactor. Flux capacitor was a control device. Did anyone else notice the similarity between the windows on the Delorean and the SVX?

ECU coolant temp sensor? If the ECU is thinking that the engine is warm, it may be leaning out when cold. . .

Edrach, if he does not want them, I do. I took the shops dog out for an outting the other day (he never gets to go anywhere, the poor thing) and while ai was fueling up the car, he ate my seatbelt webbing in the front. I just the time it took to put 13 gals of gas in the car, he chewed 3/4 of the way through the drivers seatbelt. . . Well, now I know why he never gets to go anywhere. . . (sigh) So I'm in need of the center retractor and webbing from a 90-94 Legacy. Blue prefered, but the grey will work also (the two colors are really close, actually).

Two screws inside the armrest storage compartyment, two more forward of the handbrake handle, and the small tray in front of that. The armrest console lifts up and back to clear the belt retractors. The beltsgo through a loop on the side of the seats, and a hole in the sides of the console. Once those two holes are cleared, the console is out. To remove the seatbelt retractors, you need a 16mm socket for the anchor bolts on the sides, and a 14mm socket (IIRC) for any remaining bolts. You may be able to free the belt webbing with the console removed, so try that before replacing the unit.

Dash wiring done. Good news, the plug for the non sunroof is the same as for the sunroof model. (on the non sunroof models, it just goes to the map light. You have to add the wires for the sunroof power, and visor mirror lights if you want those). All I did was add power for the sunroof and the switches work (relays trip near the motor, but no joy from the motor just yet. The headliner will have to be removed and I'll have to trace down the problem with the motor from the back of the sunroof tray. The wiring and the hole in the roof turned out to be the hardest parts of the whole project. I am now at a point where I am no longer able to put used parts on the car for upgrade purposes. All upgrades have to be new from this point out. That will include AGX struts, and driving lights. then I clean up the old bushings a set at a time, and perhaps paint and tinting. Oh, I'm in the market for one "teardrop" style alloy wheel from an LS in decent shape for the spare.

The sunroof is IN!!!! Just have to connect electrical power and do a bit of bodywork for finishing. works well on the crank, and I'm just lovin the sunshine. . . Will post pics when time and connection permits.

They are 12mm. For an auto tranny engine: Disconnect battery remove plastic parts of the intake drain and remove radiator and fans disconnect power steering pump from engine, set aside disconnect AC compressor and set aside two engine to tranny bolts (top corners of the tranny) two engine stud to tranny nuts (bottom corners of the tranny) dog bone (pitch stopper) fuel line trio 4 flex plate bolts (hold the engine in place with a 22mm socket on the crank pulley bolt, to keep the crank from moving while you are turning these bolts) throttle cables vac hose to brake booster disconnect O2 sensor (just in case the exaust drops) six nuts that hold the exaust manifold to the heads two nuts on the motor mounts connect hoist, lift the engine just above the crossmember (recomend jacking up the tranny to relieve pressure on the studs at the bottom of the tranny) pry engine from tranny, and pull it forward to clear the studs lift the engine out Draining the oil will make the engine easier to work on, and a lot less messy. mount points for the hoist are at the rear of the engine, on the right side, and one of two places in the front: On 1st gen Legacies you have a ring between the alternator and the AC compressor. On later models, you need to connect to the top of the bracket that is between the two. I hold the hood vertical with a pair of bungee cords attached eithe rto the roof rack or around the windshield. Tranny does not need to be disconnected from te halfshafts to remove the engine (although it does make accessing the nuts on the lower corners easier)

I grabbed one from the same year LS model. Stock size, I guess. 89-91 they all had the swaybars. 92+ only the LS and better had them on wagons. . . Sunroof is in as of now. A bit of finishing is still needed, and wiring. I have a two week gig that precludes me from doing work on the car at that time, bit I'll be finishing up when that is done. As for what I'll do when Emily is all new again? I'll probably work on getting Pegasus up to the same level. That will take a bit longer, though, as Pegasus was a "bought dead, and brought back to life" car. Lots of little things wrong with her, but she is still a great car. The ex-wife is decidedly in love with that car, gushing about how great it is every time we meet up. . . Realisticly, though, Emily and Pegasus will be a long time in getting to "new" condition.

Sunroof project is going well, and I have installed a rear swaybar into my 92 Wagon (Emily). I got a chance to drive her last night after doing that and Holy ^&%#@%@!!! what a difference! The car just screams "go faster, go faster! Oh there is a corner, hit the gas!!!" Pegasus is rinning well for the ex wife, who is now a convert. Says that she will not happily drive any other car again. . . Woll post more later. . .

Warranty? What is a warranty? Oh, you mean the word Subaru on the back of the car. . .

OK, I stopped reading this thread when it started devolving into a flame war, with little real information being passed. Now, 80 posts later, I look in and am glad that I did. Folks, this is a great forum, full of very useful information on really great cars. Why does it seem like anytime anyone mentions fuel economy, everyone here reverts to the second grade and starts fighting? Are we no better than that? As for increasing the fuel economy in our cars, there are as many opinions as there are people here. None of them is gosple. none of them is complete crap. In my book, when you get into personal attacks in arguing your point, you lose by default. I'm happy with the fuel economy of my 14 year old Legacy wagon. 25MPG mixed driving is good in my book, for an AWD car that can hit and hold 120MPH with 200K on the odometer. That may just be me, though. I do not do much to increase the milage, but I do try to keep the car running as clean as I can. I'm more concerned about emmissions than I am about economy. In that regard, My Subaru is great! I consistantly get very good numbers when I smog the car.

yes

You mean like Emily? My 14 year old Legacy wagon that has 200K miles on the odo, and still keeps having to tow newer cars off the road because they are broken down?

#8 is because it is not the normal way it works. It is fixed now, anyway. I just had to exercise the switch a bit. #2 I am suspecting that it is low refrigerant, but I will not have the funds to top it off until later. I may disconnect the compressor clutch to protect the compressor until I can get it topped off. The controls seem to have a bias toward the heater outlets, Bilev and heat feel almost the same. this may just be an adjustment. I took the car for a shakedown drive last night, and the most critical things are all working well. I also put enough miles on the tank that I can estimate that the ex-wife will be getting on the order of 24MPG mixed. I feel good about giving her the car in this condition, as I can fix up the problems a bit at a time.

Well, I finally put enough miles on the first tank to get some idea of economy. Looks like she will be getting on the order of 24MPG mixed. This is before I do basic tune-up kinda stuff (I'm pretty sure the plugs and wires should be changed). Not bad. Well, the AWD system is not sluggish on the tranny. It is non functional. Well, I have all sumer to deal with that, I guess. still need to reseal the front of the engine, as the cam seals are pissing oiul all over the place. I checked out the lights (inside and out) and I can say with confidance that the ex-wife will be able to see a lot better with this car than with the Saturn. This means that the Saturn gets to sit in the driveway until we get enough cash to buy parts to fix the dings, and send it off to the MIL (who actually owns the car). Pegasus will be her primary vehicle, with a starting milage of 198,000 miles. Sounded real bad when I first got it running, but it is a lot better now. I'm actually thinking that the tranny could be swapped, as there is a couple of problems with it. One is the AWD problem (acts like the fuse is in, but it is not. Or at least the FWD light is not on), and there is also the back up lights, and a strange shifting. It almost acts like the car goes from first to third, except when downshifting to pass. Not sure what that is all about. Tranny fluid is a bit toasty smelling, so I'll flush it out and see if that clears anything up.

what is he calling the tranny seperator gasket? I know of an oil seperator, but that is a plate at the rear of the engine. Your original one was plastic, and should be replaced with a metal one. They tend to crack and leak, so replacing it is a good idea. The valve cover gaskets, cam seals, and front crank seal (along with the oil pump O-ring) are a good thing to replace if they leak at all

Check your tires, they have to be all the same size. Part of what you are describing sounds like torque bind. Is this an auto tranny, or a manual?

Go back and buy that car. With our help, you will be able to easily bring it up to perfect (or near perfect) condition, and you will never look at any other brand of car again.