Gnuman

there should be a good quarter inch of free play at the cable end when adjusted. the settings you have now, if they match that, are fine. it is my guess that your clutch is just fine at this point, and I can see no reason to replace it at this stage.

Ummm how long are you holding the button under the dash? I find that is takes several seconds of holding the button in before the locks cycle. Try holding the button in for a good fifteen seconds. A minute at the most extreeme. If the locks do not cycle after a minute of holding the button in, then try seeing if you are holding the right button. it should be a black button in a black casing.

I would hope so. Notice the smileys after that part? I'm well aware of what to do to stop the leaking. I guess I'll just have to chase this down with a multimeter. time to pull the headliner, I guess. . .

OK, first off, yes, I'm still alive. I did not drive off a cliff or even a dry mild curve. I have just been working on an off-topic project pretty intensely. while I was out the other day, however, I reached up and hit the sunroof controls (this is the OEM sunroof I installed in my '92 that came with a standard roof) and the sunroof jumped. This got my attention and I played with the buttons a bit. The sunroof will retract all the way with power, but it will not close from there. it will go up to vent with power, and it will close from there, but after closing it will not open again until I move the motor a half turn in the direction of venting. For this description, read close as go to the closed position, vent as go to the raised position with the rear extended up, and retract as slide to the rear inside the roofline. My guess is that one wire is not making contact: the one that closes the sunroof from the retracted position. Annother possability is that the sensor that detects that the sunroof is closed is not working in some way and causing the motor to not work in that direction until it is in the area of the vent function. Have any of you sunroof masters ever had a problem like this? Any ideas on where to look? Oh, and my sunroof is leaking (Yes, I know I need to have a look at the drain lines)

they took that loose?!? OK, I'll give them a call and get that bit. I have never seen anyone take that bit loose before. Give me a call will ya?

Or Washington or Oregon or . . .

I find that the gas gets used fastest when I have an empty wallet. . .

I'll have to see what I can do about that. . .

Make that 1992 and later. I put a 91 headunit into my 92 just to get that input, which is the only difference between the two units. I also grabbed the CD player from an SVX to put under it and play CDs. . .

What year O2 sensor are you looking at? the 90-94 O2 sensors have three wires. You can get a Bosch generic sensor for about 60, with all the parts you need to splice it to your plug. The diagnostic connectors being connected under the dash may also be why you are havign trouble starting the car.

That Outback has the phase I 2.5L engine (DOHC). If he needs to replace his headgaskets, it will only be once. The redesigned headgaskets actually fix the one weak spot in that engine. As for the alternator, no real problem there. He just won't have a lot of runtime on the battery with the engine off. What I cannot understand, though, is why noone contacted me when he came visiting. . .

92 Legacy NA 5mt. I can get it to chirp now, but that is after I dropped in a lightweight flywheel and an Outback clutch. . . Yeah, the car is a lot more spirited now. . . Oh, and looking at the title of this thread, I can't help but think "quite well, actually"

No gasket on the oil seperator. Use sealant. That is what Subaru does. Yes replace with a metal one. Subaru thenselves does this as a matter of course if they have that area open for any reason (engine out or tranny out). Subaru also no longer prvides the plastic seperator. That might give you a hint as to why you want to replace it right there. . . .

You have one. it is metal, and looks like a pipe threaded into the intake on the passenger side, beside the throttle body (that thing that looks like a carbeurator). It will have a hose attached to the other end, that goes down to a T fitting and into the crankcase. The valve covers will also have smaller hoses that serve the same purpose, for that area. Besides these, there is one hose that is attached to the air intake, and that is the real big one that goes to the Idle Air Control Solenoid. The part is like 5 or 6 dollars online. Perhaps the extravigant price of 15 at the dealer. . . If you suspect it at all, replace it. It is cheap enough. . . .

$75 would have been the full screw price 9did you get kissed first for that?) Part is between $20 and $50 online. Replacement is elementery.you need a 12mm socket, 10"-12" of extensions, a fair bit of manual dexterity (Can you retrieve a quarter that you have dropped between the front seats of your car?), and a minimum of mechanical aptitude (bare minimum for this job: the ability to change a household lightbulb should be enough). This is a common job. the sensor tends crack and fail with age. No biggie to replace it though.

What is this "trade" I keep hearing about? It almost sounds like yu guys are willing to part with your Subarus. . . I plan on rolling the Odometer over. I have 200,000 miles on it, only 800,000 left to go. Perhaps then I might be willing to trade. . .

Ericem, with that system, you have the 2" compartment under the radio. with most modern systems you need to get the 3" compartment to retain the look of the original installation. This pocket is available from Subaru, and perhaps other places as well. There are several units that have the front AUX port available, also quite a few that have other features (DVD, NAV, XM, USB input, whatever you want really)

socket set (3/8 and 1/2" ) couple of crowbars, screwdrivers, pliers, couple of combo wrenches (10, 12, 14mm) You know, standard stuff. . .

OK, I'm going to be cleaning the IAC, and I'll probably pop in a new PVC valve. All fine and good, but what pins on the engine wiring connector do I check in relation to this? We had a problem with this car recently where the ignitor pins were not making good contact and we kept loosing cyls 3 + 4. Oh, and nipper: this is on a 98 Outback 5MT EJ25 98K miles Recent work: headgaskets, new seals, timing belt, Oil pumo O-ring and refurb, valve job (1 new valve) and a new clutch. Other than the IAC and PVC, what areas should I look into?

$725? Damn! that would pay for the part, and my gas to come up from California to do it as well. . .

It was a lot better after I did the same thing. Milage also improved, but the new O2 sensor I put in a month later really made that better. When I took the top end of my 92 apart during refurb (see the footmagnet thread), there was very little carbon built up on the heads. More carbon was on the pistons than the head, actually. this was a good 50,000 miles after the top end cleaning. I used Seafoam for mine. as far as being on topic, you are talking about work done on a Subaru, and this is a fairly recurring discussion on this board. I would say that this is very much on-topic.

Interestingly enough, it has not effected my milage at all. At least not in a significant way (within a MPG or two)

Heh, got yer attention didn't it. . . Ever since I redid the top end on my 92 Legacy (from the headgaskets out. Headgaskets were not really needed, except that I wanted to inspect the cylender walls) and replaced the crappy aftermarket clutch with one for a 2.5, I have had a terrible time keeping my foot off the accelerator. This is getting to be a problem as I do not want to attract the "foot magnet neutralisers" with thier red and blue lights. . . Oh, for Nipper: 92 Legacy Wagon 5MT EJ22E 200,000 miles. Recent work: Headgaskets (the cyl walls look great! Factory hash marks prominent, no other marks visable) valve cover gaskets, cam seals, front and rear crank seals, refurb oil pump, new water pump, new timing belt

They failed because they were cheap aftermarket headgaskets. You can use the tightening procedure from the haynes again. be sure to put oil on the threads of the headbolts. New ones are usually not needed.

Ya think? With "techs" that say things like "it's nothing, ignore it". . .