Gnuman

**hands Nipper a mug of coffee and a slice of chocolate cake** Time to take a break and relax a bit.

Ummm, what is your AC doing?

Heh, every time I work on any other brand of car, I love my Subaru all the more. . . If you think Hondas are bad, try working on a domestic car. . . I swear the "engineers" were smoking crack. . .

Will do. To the Moderators: Is it OK for me to put my number in this forum as a service provider in the SF Bay Area? I do mobile repair on new gen Subarus. I have avoided it so far to keep from looking like I was spamming here. I did put a post in the marketplace, but got no response at all from that. Please shoot me a PM to respond.

The steering rack. It is a long tubelike item that sits under the crossmember that the engine sits on.

Interesting. . . That is exactly what I do. . . give me a PM or email and I'll give you my phone # to set up an appt, if you want.

Jeff, what you have is Torque Bind. This is a correctabe condition. PM me and we can talk. I am close to you and can take a look at it

Mine walks right up to 120 and stops there. Holds 120 pretty good too, and is rock stable at that speed. I have no need or desire for faster than that.

No timing belt? When did that happen? You will still have to change it every 100K, just like a Subaru. Oh, and it will be harder to change it. . .

Cam seals, front crank seal, valve cover gaskets, spark plug gaskets, and the buttons to seal the bolts that hold the valve covers on. Replacing the seals when replacing the timing belt is a very good practice, as old seals and gaskets will tend to not seal properly, allowing for leaks. Take the money that you save by not replacing perfectly good idlers, and invest some of it in new seals. You will be glad you did.

Not true. If it gets really bad, they weld themselves together, mandating replacement of the clutch plates or clutchpack unit.

Well, if I use all the gears. . . 1st - 0-25 2nd - 0-60 3rd - 20-85 4th - 30-(have not tested top of 4th) 5th - 45 - 120 This is in a N/A Legacy wagon. does my gear ratio suck? I pull 27MPG with the cruise set at 85 on the freeway. I get 25 mixed city and highway. I'm not exactly timid with the throttle, either. 0-60 in 2nd is just that it has an exceptionaly wide powerband. . .

McDonalds ain't got quality either. . . well, they do: poor quality. . .

I was being fair. I have not timed it, but I can go from 0 to 60 in second gear alone. Granted, that is revving the living piss out of the engine. . .

There are two intervals for the early 90's Legacies. The Federal spec was 60K, The California spec was 100K. They are all 100K now.

supposed to be on the order of 36psi. Does not sound low enough to be a problem, unless you have really dirty injectors. My guess is that your problem lies elsewhere. Do a search for "hesitation" and see what turns up. Oh, and welcome to the board!!

On every Sub I have worked on (90 - 02) it has been a 14mm socket, and a 16mm socket (that last for the seatbelt retractors that you will not have to deal with)

Emily: 92 Leg wagon EJ22, 0-60 in. . . 2nd gear. . .

Good, you should be able to get the glass easily enough, then. . .

It is torque bind. To cure this on an auto tranny: * flush the fluid out. (this often cures mild to moderate binding) * clean/replace the Duty C solenoid (or have this done) * replace the AWD clutchpack at the rear of the tranny The above is listed in order of cost (least expensive first). Where in the Bay Area are you? send me a PM/email, and perhaps I can help diagnose it further, as I'm near there. Torque Bind generally occurs due to the transmission fluid overheating and depositing a varnish inside the transmission. What causes this most often is mismatched tires, as the rotating circumfrence of the tires does not match, causing the transmission to work harder (causing more heat) to compensate in order to provide power to all 4 wheels evenly. Prevention is in two parts: 1) Keep the tires evenly matched to within 1/4" Rotating Circumfrence (replace in sets, rotate them regularly) 2) change the transmission fluid regularly, as it will fail more easily after it has been overheated a couple of times. Replacing the transmission fluid most often corrects this situation if it is a recent onset. If it has been doing this for some time, more intensive corrective actions may be needed. An easy test to see if the tires are evenly sized: a) put a "Post-it" note (or other highly visable mark that can be removed after) at the bottom side of each tire. With the aid of a spotter, drive forward slowly in a straight line until one wheel has gone 10 revolutions (this is the reference tire) c) measure how far forward or rearward each of the other tires are from the reference position. d) the maximum allowable distance from the most forward to the most rearward is 2.5" (.25" x 10 revolutions) to be within specifications. e) if the tires are not within specifications, replace all 4 of them. Do this before attempting to repair the transmission. If you spend money on repairing the transmission, and the tires are out of spec, you are throwing your money down the toilet. If the tires are all within specifications, then we can proceed with the repair of the transmission.

Yeah, i'd say the Alpine sport is fairly rare. . . On this, you will have to go new. get just the glass, though. Well, that is if the heater is inside the glass, as I hope it is.

197K miles on my 92 EJ22. What are these noises that you are talking about (saying that they are expected)? My engine is nice and quiet, and I use about .5 to 1 qt in 3K miles. The clutch died (the cheaps**t clutch is not as strong as the engine, and spins on hard launches. This burns the disc material prematurely. Never never NEVER put a "Duralast" clutch in a Legacy. . .) so I'm doing the scheduled 200K service 3K early. I will be going to synthetic after I replace all the seals along with the timing belt, waterpump, headgaskets (I wanna take a look at the cyl walls) and crossover pipe O-rings. I spend so much time and attention on other Subarus (they need it a lot more) that I'm sure emily will get jealous if I do not give her some time as well. . . Oh, and the clutch I'm putting in is from a tunered 2.5L Impreza, and comes with a drilled flywheel. It is my guess that a clutch made to keep up with a 160HP engine should have no issues with a 130hp one. .. If the disc dies on this set (only 40K on the engine when the driver lost it and smashed up the rear end), I will replace the disc and keep the Pressure plate. For viscosity, I use cheap 10w30 dino, right now, and no significant noise from the engine ( I can even hear the injectors cycling)

Check out the online parts stores as well. I use 1stsubaruparts.com , but do not order from the page. call Jason at 866-528-5282 instead. Tell him you need the internet pricing, and that you are a USMB member as well.

The heated outside mirrors were part of the "Cold Weather Package" which is only listed on the Alpine Sport submodel. If you do not have the alpine sport, then yes, this was a special order Legacy. Is the mirror glass broken, or the housing?

I have to add my voice to this as well. my 92 Legacy is the first Subaru I have ever owned. I fell in love with the car the first time I opened the hood (I am a mechanic, and seeing how well laid out the engine bay is really got me hooked). Then I drove it, and fell in love all over again. Then I got underneath to have a look there. At that point there was no question that I would never own any other brand of car. The routine maintainance items (engine oil, gear oil for the transmission, thermostat and coolant access, and the like) were so easy to get at that I was amazed. On top of that, the car is way over-engineered. The transmission, for example, looks like it should be mounted in a truck, not in a small wagon. Actually, the transmission on my old minivan was smaller. . . That to say that Subarus are engineered to be highly maintainable, and to last forever (or a lot closer to it than any other car I have seen)