Tremmor
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Posts posted by Tremmor
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Whee, drove it out from garage carefully and tried to get feel for low grabbing clutch. Then headed to gas station and soonish started to listen whats that sound, its was like dry and loud bearing. Fortunately it was only hood support that was loose and it was rubbing against powersteering pulley. Gonna adjust clutch cable later to get it grab a bit higher like it was before operation.
I didnt replace baffle plate since dealer couln't give date when it would arrive. But if I learnt something from this clutch change episode it would be: Be prepared. Order stuff beforehand, get used flywheel and have it machined, Take pictures what goes where, take pictures from other angles too. Make notes. Put parts in safe place where you find them, label hoses. Get torq specs etc.
Thank you very much for helping me out! Saved a big penny and learned lotsa of new stuff! =)
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Damn, improvised clutch disc alignment tools made by rolling masking tape around torx socket, or masking tape around tire valve installation cone didnt do the trick. 3 hours wasted wiggling engine back and forth until figured to insert 12mm drill bit into pilot bearing and then place old pilot bearing after pressure plate. Now it was easy to eyeball center of clutch disc and fasten bolts, after that engine went in smoothly.
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Closer visual inspection after cleaning flywheel revealed hairlinecracks, the longest is about 0,6" (15mm) long.
General overview after scuffing with 120 grit paper
http://oi60.tinypic.com/2u77ot4.jpg
Closeup crack in flywheel, you can feel it with fingernail
http://oi58.tinypic.com/2r5f7lt.jpg
I'm starting to think there is no such a thing as quick clutch job unless you happen to have all spare parts already. =)
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Sachs clutch kit arrived but unfortunately lack of other stuff delays installation some days. Oh, and those two lower nuts in transmission case that are hard to reach I found that using dual box wrench, mebbe it was 14mm and 13mm, and slide hammer with hook attachment, it was easy to break open without busting knuckles.
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Whee, its out! Sprayed a bit WD-40 into crack, more wiggling, chisel + hammer combo, shaking and prying with crowbar it gave in! After removing flywheel no oil leaks from rear oil seal nor plastic baffle plate, but driver side valve cover gasket and plate held by two bolts on opposite side probably end of camshaft leak nastily.
Wonder I get by just by replacing clutch disc and release bearing and scuff flywheel and clutch cover side with sandpaper or angle grinder since they are quite smooth.
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Excellent, now I'm in the point to separate engine from transmission, unfortunately driver side of block doesnt seem no realize it. Right hand side separates almost inch but left hand resist. I followed partly Subaru Impreza 93-96 repair manual and it differs where it says to remove plug to screw in bolt into release fork shaft to remove it. Theres no plug nor threaded hole and I figured that applies only to turbo models. At home I checked http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php/topic/9328-ej20-na-engine-removal-step-by-step-guide/ and this guide doesn't mention about plug thingy either so I guess I just need a bigger hammer =)
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Hood is already pointing almost straight up and I'm definitely removing radiator. But since this is my first time doing this level repair I'd like to completely remove engine and check rear crankshaft seal and valve cover gasket for leaks in comfortable(!) position.
Chain hoist and leveler shorten lifting max with about 22" (55cm) so I might remove leveler and use short chains instead. Damn this is exciting! =)
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Hi again!
It turned out that I didnt have such a luck I hoped for in my previous thread Impreza 1996 clutch issue. After replacing engine coolant temp sensor and cleaning crankshaft and camshaft position sensors which were covered in oily crap the car acted more spirited but in two weeks it was pain in the butt to keep up even in city speeds. Since estimates for clutch repair job were 70-90% of car purchase price I decided to try it myself.
Realized after mounting gantry crane and attaching chain hoist and after that engine leveler that the max raise capacity wouldnt be enough if front of the car is resting on jacks. How much do I need clearance to lift ej20 engine from bay?
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OK, thanks for replies. Hopefully it lasts till then
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Subaru Impreza stw 2.0l 1996. Sometimes when I try to accelerate rapidly, 2-3 gears mostly, rpms raise fast but no increase in speed. If I step on gaspedal slower it accelerates like it should. It has almost 185k miles (300000km) in meter. Does this symptom apply to slipping clutch and if it does, is there any remedy prior changing clutch. I'd like to wait till winter is over and then do the the clutch change so I dont miss any wintertime fun. =)
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If you are gonna rebuild it you might want to use screwdrivers that fit properly in jets or you can strip the soft brass heads with ease. Penetrating oil and heat should help.
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You can try to remove crap with carb cleaner, remove air filter and hose it inside carb lines, let it kick in for some time and start engine and spray and blipp throttle and keep going and hope for the best. (Refer to cleaner instructions.) That helped me a bit but if there is more crap it needs to be opened to clean passages.
In link theres pic of my -87 Loyales carb right hand barrel, low right passage was packed with crust, I suppose it might be fine oily sawdust or such and i have no idea what that passage was for but I know that kinda stuff doesn't help carb running
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Took carb top out and verified no crap in fuel bowl and all jets were tightly seated. Oiled plunger but it wasnt sticking as bad as old one. Compared float and needle adjustments to old carb and noticed that current needle spring didnt return fully like old one. The clearance between float tab to needle blunt end was like 3/64" (about 1.2mm) when needle was lightly seated, the old carb had 0.0079 inches (0.2mm) and the one I found in rebuild kit didnt have any play when tested with old float.
Unfortunately Autozone site didn't work too well with mobile phone connection so I couln't verify correct way to set things, so I took my changes with new needle and no clearance setting. And guess what... It worked, smooth idle, very little variation in rpms and the Colortune plug color was strong bright blue. Dunno how it behaves when I actually drive the car but I have high hopes.
You guys are awesome, thank you so much! Couldn't solve this without your help!
Carb needles comparison, from left to right: needle I was using with broken spring, old needle, repair kit needle
http://oi39.tinypic.com/jsypzd.jpg
Float and needle, needle lightly seated, float tab clearance
http://oi41.tinypic.com/b6u0xx.jpg -
Thanks to Xman for his thread, his link has float adjustment specs I was looking for some time, as well as other good stuff for Subaru ff-1/1300/1400/1600/1800/Brat 1970-1984
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/112069-ea81-hitachi-carb-float-level/
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Started engine and carb base didnt leak so far so I continued as Robm suggested, increased rpms to 900 and Colortune spark was much easier to see, but turning mixture screw all the way in didn't make engine shutdown. Does this count as symptom for carb float being out of adjust?
Oh, and when i tried to adjust rpms back to 700's noticed that they intermittently dropped to 550 and after a few secs they climbed back. I turned a bit more idle screw to raise rmps and then fan kicked in and with that rpms were 1100 just like that.
Adjusted idle back to 700 and soon it was acting up again, I thought it wasnt running sometimes on all cylinders so I started removing spark plug wires, honestly didnt notice any difference except when I got zapped in my finger, luckily i had rubber gloves on. Then I opened distributor cap and there was carbon buildup as well as in rotor, removed it with sandpaper and started engine. Cap and rotor were replaced like 100 miles ago as well as coil. Steady 700 rpms, very smooth. Yep, turned engine off, bolted air filter back and started again only to see engine sputter and die under minute.
I'm starting to think there are numerous issues in this car =)
Pics of the old carb, the plunger was sticking in this one as Ferox posted, when I pressed it in all the way in and removed finger it took 1 or 2 secs to bounce back but WD40 did wonders =) Gonna test same thing with carb in use and see if I can set float as well.
hitachi carb float
http://oi41.tinypic.com/2nlad5y.jpg
hitachi carb plunger
http://oi40.tinypic.com/ejinuu.jpgdistributor cap
http://oi40.tinypic.com/n5imw.jpg -
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Unfortunately no glass in carb.
Ferox, do you mean by power valve plunger acceleration pump? Previous carb had rubber plunger and rebuild kit had leather one so I replaced it since rubber plunger had shrunk.
Naru, I'm pretty sure that the cleaned, second hand carb wasnt fiddled before me since there was no witness marks at screw heads, so I'm tempted to believe that fuel level float aint bent. Unless it needs to be adjusted because of wear and stuff. Both carbs had about 200k km, its about 125k miles.
Made two paper gaskets and smeared Plastic Padding Gasket goo to improve sealing since phenol plate has scratches caused by enthuasist diy'er =) Checked carb to manifold nut torques from Haynes manual and I'm starting to think that I hadnt tightened those earlier tight enough. Tested that 16 ft-lbs (about 20 Nm) in vise to have feel for open wrench operation. Its now much tighter than ealier. Gonna test tomorrow =)
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Emission test was at idle, I found report:
CO%:5,24 (3,5 is limit)
CO2:12,1
HC ppm 350 (600 limit)
O2:0,47
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hi,
have you replaced the oxygen sensor? that is an important part of the emission management and fairly cheap about 20-25 dollars US. when they are not working they usually drive the ecm to a rich condition rather than a lean one since that would lead to engine damage. it's mounted in the exhaust Y pipe where the two sides join together , a single wire type. they do make a difference if not functioning.
Excellent, gonna test it. =)
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update: found a vacuum leak at the base of carb where a phenol-plate (?) is sandwitched between carb and intake manifold. I had used two paper gaskets there with gasket glue but maybe i should be more liberal with applying glue and wait good time to make sure glue is set before starting engine.
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Hi!
My Subaru Loyale stw, 1987, 4x4, 1.8L with Hitachi 2 bbl carb didn't pass inspection, inspector said it was running too rich. I had rebuild carb partually earlier, replaced accelerator pump and gaskets and cleaned it with carb cleaner, after that flat spot was gone. Ignition timing is set to 8 degrees BTDC distributor vacuum line plugged and engine warm at ~700 rpms.
I found Gunson Colourtune and decided to give it a try before having a mechanic to check emissions and possibly adjust carb with proper equipment. It was harder to see color differences in spark in RL than in Youtube videos, first it was strong yellowish spark and after fidding with air/fuel mixture screw it was harder and harder to see, resulting a small spot to see spark but too small to see actual color. I removed Colortune Plug as I thought it was in need of cleaning but it wasnt the case, it was just like new. I'm going to give it another try and change spark plug wires and try maybe other cylinder to see if that results stronger spark.
Should I increase rpms with idle mixture screw so spark is easier to see and adjust it back to 700 rpms when done playing with air/fuel mixture or do they interact and need to be adjusted in turn? Am I just making this too difficult myself instead of dialing in initial setting for air/fuel screw, if there is such, please share =)
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Most excellent, thank you for help! =)
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Hi!
I replaced timing belt and idlers in Subaru Impreza 1996 (ej20), removed pin from belt tensioner to tighten belt and after that rotated crankshaft pulley few times by hand. I was looking to see timing marks in pulleys and white lines in belt to get aligned again but it didn't happen so I turned crankshaft maybe 20 more times. They still didn't align so I asked someone with more experience about the situation. His opinion was the marks should align so I figured that belt slipped when tensioner pin was removed causing this confusion.
So this evening I reinstalled belt paying attention that marks were ok in sprockets and belt and rotated crankshafk few times. Same result: when camshafts and crankshaft hashmarks were up the white lines in timing belt weren't. I'm starting to think they even shouln't realign but please verify if that's the case and if they should align what to check next as I'm running out of ideas with this. Thanks for help =)
Subaru Impreza 1996, MT, EJ20, sensor troubleshooting
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Hi again!
Excellent learning situation manifesting itself in form of : Impreza with warm engine cranks but doesnt start until some time (5-15 mins) has passed.
Its been happening intermittently in +20, 0 and -30 degrees of Celsius. By reading this wonderful forum found that probable cause could be engine coolent temperature sensor, I
replaced it with new one and cleaned crankshaft and camshaft position sensors from oil and dirt. Car ran much better and responded well to throttle, but it
didnt stop the problem.
Instead of replacing stuff I Want to diagnose stuff like a boss when problem occurs next time and be able to pinpoint problematic part. I removed passanger side metal panel from floor and found ECU with text 2G, 22611, AC540, A18-000 D15, 6212, Unisia Jecs Corporation , Made in Japan. Then I went to look for ECU pin order and found few wrong ones but photos from Ausubaru.com were promising.
http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-2765.html
Thanks for user jzk25 for these,
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h219/AL_RS/96EJ20NAMan2002.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h219/AL_RS/96EJ20NAMan2005.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h219/AL_RS/96EJ20NAMan2006.jpg
http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h219/AL_RS/96EJ20NAMan2007.jpg
I tested TPS with usb-oscilloscope and laptop and it drew smooth curve as I pushed pedal.
Gonna later post screenshots of crankshaft and camshaft position sensor results. But I didnt get logical results from O2 sensor pins, if I recall they were something like
12 voltages but gonna verify pins and measure again to make sure. When I disconnected o2 sensor I was suprised that it didnt light CEL.
Could someone verify if this statement is true or does it apply in my case.
A faulty oxygen sensor can reduce your fuel economy by 30 to 40 percent and drastically reduce performance.